City Baja Build

[Volksmeister]

Ok. Some pictures! I found a good app for my iPhone that is free and simple!

IMG_3814.JPG

The motor was seized. I thought it happened just recently because I turned it a few months back... I figured I'd get away with a quick hone, new rings and lap the valves. Boy was I wrong!

IMG_3813.JPG

Some of the water made its way into the sump too. After I pulled the heads and cylinders I got a good look at the bottom end. Spins smoothly and no rust! I got lucky.

Last T4 I built was 14 years ago... I plan on just doing the top end on this one.

I've been working on the street because the driveway to my garage is steep. No bumper to push on and no brakes yet so there she sits. My neighbors love me. Actually nobody seems to mind! I've only gotten positive responses.

IMG_3812.JPG

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... D301%2DDCC

Has anyone used one of these brakes reservoirs before? The only thing I'm concerned about is how the cap is vented. Having it mounted low means being exposed to water and such. I always seem to drive through some kind of deep water or puddles where I go wheeling...

As long as I'm working on this car you will find me on this site. No worries about me shuffling off to Facespace.

[dustymojave]

You could put a fitting in the cap to a vent hose up high. Just make sure the hose has a high point with the end lower so it works like a snorkle. The bubble of air will keep out water.

Better do the same with the exhaust.
8^0

I rebuilt the engine on a friend's buggy because the stinger exhaust directed rain right down into the open exhaust valves. Even though it was here in the Mojave Desert, the cylinders looked just like yours.

[Volksmeister]

Thanks Dusty, that's a great idea. That's how I did the diff breathers on my Toyota. Even used a small inline lawnmower fuel filter!

[Volksmeister]

Alright, here's a progress update: I got my 002 5 rib transaxle repaired in December of last year be Gary at Gary's transaxle service. He was super cool and let me come by in the evening and help him out. What a great experience and a great guy. The shift fork adjustment was way less complicated than I thought. If I ever have to take it apart again, I'll make a kid using an old case and DIY!

The roll cage is coming together nicely too. Secured to the floor now! I have the rear section secured, tied to the frame horns and the diagonal bare from the top of the b-pillar down to the parcel area done. Horizontals between the lower a and b-pillars and b-pillar to rear torsion housing.

I should have cylinder heads and P&Ls from the machine shop next week.

I snagged a used Pro-tools 105 bender that I almost have set up.

I will get pics up soon. I guess I deleted the photo resizing app from my phone...

Cheers!

-Levi

[Volksmeister]

Let's see how this works

[Volksmeister]

Some cage work.

[dustymojave]

Make sure those yoke braces clear the exhaust and the starter motor before you weld them in fully!!!

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Two things:

Dusty is correct assuming you run the style of exhaust that goes over the heads of the engine (http://www.jbugs.com/category/vw-off-ro ... ngers.html), those straps then could be in the way.

The other thing is to be sure (if you haven't already) to put some good grade of material doublers on the pan or body" thin/formed flat stock.

[chuckput]

Of course if he continues using the Type IV engine the exhaust exits from the bottom and not the front and back as with the Type I.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

He could turn the engine over couldn't he?

[Volksmeister]

Thanks guys. The diagonal frame horn braces do clear the starter as well as the type 4 exhaust, since it exits out the bottom of the heads. Not sure if they will clear the cylinder cooling tin. They are still just tacked in, so change is easy.

That did get me thinking... maybe I run the exhaust around the fron of the engine and over the top. Like a mid engine rail.

I got my heads and P&Ls from the machine shop on Saturday. I may end up splitting the case to replace the cam. It's not looking the best and the lifters are worn. Decisions!

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I don't know much or anything about the type 4 engine but most the rails, Baja, and buggies I see, using the type 1 engine almost always run the exhaust over and/or around the sides of the engine to keep most the heat away from the engine. Some run cheap or even stock exhaust or don't just know better (but that doesn't take long to figure out after it is "damn"-aged; e.g., if you are running off-road some of the exhaust running under the engine can be at risk from crushing if you bottom out).

Not saying you have to but something to think about.

[dustymojave]

I was thinking T3 engine in this Baja, but Chuck was right, it's a T4.

T4 offroad engines use headers that exit out the bottom of the heads, same as any other T4 engine. There really aren't many offroad headers for T4 engines on the market.

TriMil offers one which is mostly the normal "Bobcat" style(like shown in that link above) with the vertical 4-into-One collector. But the primaries connect under the heads of the T4. Those headers are designed for use with a "Porsche" style upright fan shroud with the alternator above the center of the case. If you retain the factory cooling fan, the headers won't clear the crank-mount fan or the shroud and the primary tubes need an addition of about 4 or 5 inches for fan clearance. I used to have a T4 engine and a set of headers with those added inches. But before I used the engine, I sold it to a friend for use in a race car. So I can't offer pictures of it.

There is another brand of T4 offroad headers, but they swoop forward and up in front of the cylinders to a collector above the top center of the case aiming to the rear, like mid-engine buggy headers like Volkmeister was thinking. Those wouldn't work in the Baja Body unless a great deal of the back firewall of the body were cut away. And those yoke braces would still be an issue, only even more than with a T1 engine.

[chuckput]

Pictures always help
The top is the Tri-Mil like I have on my Type 4 powered Baja. The lower picture is the one Dusty described.

[dustymojave]

The top one that Chuck showed is the same as on my T4, but it had extensions to move the collector back to clear the stock fan. The lower pic is the style that would be a problem for volkmeister.