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Look on page 8 of camerons build for some pics

As a side note early 5/1600's didnt use lengthened rear trailing arms or shocks mounted above the arm. I remember seeing a 5 /1600 built by Johnny Johnson that won the 500 that had the shocks mounted in stock location below the arm. Im sure Dusty will chime in as his memory is better than mine:)

Sounds like this could be your next NORRA car Tim

Ed

Yes, norra is the dream.

I have some rear arms. Theu came off an older race car. The 5/1600 is a rough guide. Not being picky on class specific stuff, just a 1980's period race worthy air cooled vw.

I was more thinking about front arms. Do you use the stock arms, reinforced, aftermarket arms? I could probably look at baja bugs and buggies for a guide. Actually. I should do that.

I like where this build is going!
Very early 5 unlimited cars typically ran a 6 inch wider beam and a swingaxle trans.

Vintage racecar?

NORRA, NORRA, NORRA!

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I DO believe Tim was referring to front arms. He's referring to time when Wright reinforced spindles, so I see that as relating to front arms, not rears.

In that case, stock arms for the most part with beefed stock spindles.

3x3 rear arms were fairly common before long fabricated front arms hit the market.

I have a couple pairs of those spindles around the place. My HiJumper rail was raced in the 70s with the Wright spindles and stock trailing arms. The pair of spindles that I used then are now on my buddy's 4-seat buggy. Still work great. All of his +4" arms have been broken multiple times while my spindles still keep tickin'.

Thanks for the input, all. My next garage work day is in mid December. Hopefully more progress will ensue.

TimS wrote:Thanks for the input, all. My next garage work day is in mid December. Hopefully more progress will ensue.

Looking forward to it. Thanks Tim..

questions I need to answer...

Weld in the front beam or bolt on?

what kind of trans mounts for 5/1600?

Will 10 degree trans kit work with rear torsion adjuster?

Urethane or solid mount transmission?


still need to order - front beam bushings, trans mount, stubs?

Tim, if this truly is a race car then
1. Weld in the front beam
2. Solid mounts for trans
3. 10 degree kit will work with torsion adjuster but wouldnt use it if race car, no need to keep shifter in tunnel. Mounts rear of trans high taking away some uptravel. Front mount is off nose cone. Better to mount off midsection of trans.
Look up gonzo racings webpage. Lots of info on building a 5/1600

For the stubs I got a set off ebay for a 924 for my Baja Bug.

Ed

If I remember correctly quite a while back someone tried to race with one of those center adjusters and it failed. I wonder if the opposing torsion bars each rotating in different directions so hard and so often might have caused the adjuster too want to turn horizontally and break. A thought and a distant memory.

Lee

My opinion when given free is about as good as using a button in a vending machine.

. I have never seen nor heard of a sway a way torsion adjuster failing that was installed correctly. There are some replaceable parts though that can wear.
The original chassis with 560 has one and it is many many years old and still functions properly.
Chinese torsion adjuster is an entirely different matter.

The typical 1600 mid mounts require the trans case to be machined. Not sure if we will make it that far. But a mid mount will be the plan. Solid mount... I will check with the boss on the long term plans for this car and see if the cost of solid mount (noise, etc) is worth the benefit (strength, rigidity).

What made me ask about the beam is that Gonzo has clamps on his. I had planned on welding it in. I think I will just weld it. I am going to use the beam towers instead of building a custom shock hoop.