ts39136 wrote:Sooo... I already told you that I think too much.... And I have much time waiting on parts... And I needed a way to keep rotational loads off a HALF of a urethane bushing (because I won't be able to use a rear tab) while allowing it to be installed from an odd angle (so I don't have to trim my frame horn flanges flush)... Here is the latest from the "poor boy" machine shop. The bolt will hold it to the tab, and the tab will hold the bushing straight. Hardened them in the fireplace (and my leftover coffee to quench )last night.
I think I follow, but just to make sure... The urethane bushings with their outer sleeve are permanently mounted to the mid mount of the trans, but on the underside. The tabs you mentioned will be welded to the under/inside of the frame horns and those parts you welded up will be the inside spacer for the urethanes, plus bolt them to the frame horns?
If so, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a few small gussets on those tabs.
Don't worry about heat-treating that mild steel, it's a non-issue, plus a waste of coffee.
winifredevw wrote:The urethane bushings with their outer sleeve are permanently mounted to the mid mount of the trans, but on the underside. The tabs you mentioned will be welded to the under/inside of the frame horns and those parts you welded up will be the inside spacer for the urethanes, plus bolt them to the frame horns?
If so, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a few small gussets on those tabs.
Don't worry about heat-treating that mild steel, it's a non-issue, plus a waste of coffee.
wow, someone understands my jibberish! You got it. and yes, gussets.
And dont' worry about the coffee, it was full of metal flakes anyway.
Don’t ever yield your gift of dream; Your knack for gumption, too. For “It’s the crazy ones that have all the fun," if dreamers yearn to do.
Just keep in mind that this is a work in progress, and just tack-weld as you go. It's much easier to change your mind, (and don't be afraid to), if you don't have everything fully welded. Once your happy with it, then go back and weld it up.
Just keep in mind that this is a work in progress, and just tack-weld as you go. It's much easier to change your mind, (and don't be afraid to), if you don't have everything fully welded. Once your happy with it, then go back and weld it up.
You mean, tack it in until I can post results and all of you very helpful people can help me come to my senses and do the right thing instead of trying to cheap out and get on the trails two days sooner?
Very good advice. Thanks.
Don’t ever yield your gift of dream; Your knack for gumption, too. For “It’s the crazy ones that have all the fun," if dreamers yearn to do.
Well.... I saw ya'll bashing Herbie for not working, so I wanted to let you know...
I got all my parts in the mail. I cut the inner frame horn flanges and rounded out the inner frame horns with LFH and SAH (lotta heart and small hammer).
Looks like my mid mount bushings are going on top, and the brake lines are going away for now.
Although I was tempted, I didn't weld it up yet
Don’t ever yield your gift of dream; Your knack for gumption, too. For “It’s the crazy ones that have all the fun," if dreamers yearn to do.
Well... I tried it on top, but Mr. Bowden got really upset . After four hours this morning, I think I got a plan to get my jollies down under... Pics soon I hope.
Don’t ever yield your gift of dream; Your knack for gumption, too. For “It’s the crazy ones that have all the fun," if dreamers yearn to do.
I dont think any bay's had a haydrolic clutch that didnt come out until the vanagon the rear clutch slave wouldnt be that hard, you would just need the bracket that mounts to the trans and the slave just making sure to make up a soft line or use the plastic line from the vnagon the master might be a little harder to rig up its located on the botom of the stering column.
Alex
|_________oo_oo
/ /__/____[_____\
I I======[]IIIIIII[]
()_)-----()_)----)_)
ajdenette wrote:I dont think any bay's had a haydrolic clutch that didnt come out until the vanagon the rear clutch slave wouldnt be that hard, you would just need the bracket that mounts to the trans and the slave just making sure to make up a soft line or use the plastic line from the vnagon the master might be a little harder to rig up its located on the botom of the stering column.
Thanks for noticing my question and answering it but ... Let me clarify. Can I use an early bus BRAKE master cylinder (22mm bore, I think) in combination with an aftermarket CLUTCH slave cylinder? Just wondering what the leverage / stroke would be like. Do you know how big a bore a typical clutch slave cylinder is?
And don't tell Letherneck, but I turned his arms upside down and look... (At full droop)
arm test fit-1.jpg
arm test fit-2.jpg
This leaves the shock mounts on the bottom of the arm, but I'm going to have to make new mounts anyway...
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Don’t ever yield your gift of dream; Your knack for gumption, too. For “It’s the crazy ones that have all the fun," if dreamers yearn to do.
My CNC master for the CNC slave is 3/4" bore, which would = 19mm. Not sure how it would work with the 22mm bore of the bus brake master. More fluid, less pedal travel?
BRAT Motorsports #936
Bolt Center: Salt Lake City, Ut
ACE: Air Cooled Engineering, now Black Line Racing
BAJA-IT wrote:My CNC master for the CNC slave is 3/4" bore, which would = 19mm. Not sure how it would work with the 22mm bore of the bus brake master. More fluid, less pedal travel?
Great!! Type 1 brake master cylinder it is..... I actually have one of those.
Don’t ever yield your gift of dream; Your knack for gumption, too. For “It’s the crazy ones that have all the fun," if dreamers yearn to do.
)last night.
You got it. and yes, gussets. 
But I like it now. 
(At full droop)
