Making progress...
- Skidmark
- Posts: 3506
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:19 pm
Making progress...
I went into work today to make some parts for the baja. I milled out the dash panel, but not without some mistakes... The two large gauge holes are undersized and the gauges won't fit. After checking my drawing, I got the number wrong. At least they are too small and can be opened up. I didn't get the switch panel completed, so when I get that part in the mill, I will open these holes up at the same time.
I got the skid plate made up. Here are some shots of the plate and test fitting it to the car for the first time. Like the dash, I will need to trim some material off, but not much. I still need to drill the mounting holes.
I got the skid plate made up. Here are some shots of the plate and test fitting it to the car for the first time. Like the dash, I will need to trim some material off, but not much. I still need to drill the mounting holes.
- david58
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- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2005 6:14 pm
That's looking good Skidmark. It is better to have to cut twice than have to start over for sure. I got the same problem with the holes too small in a pre-made console. How are you going to enlarge the holes? I have a couple ideas on mine.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
- Skidmark
- Posts: 3506
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:19 pm
You can't tell in the pic, but I engraved for the switch and indicator light descriptions. I am going to fill the engraving with black paint, then line grain the whole panel. A coat of satin clear coat to eliminate glare, and it should look killer! The top bezel of the dash will be flat black for no glare as well.
1FASTHOE,
Well, let's see....
Tach
Speedo
H2O temp
Oil press.
Volts
Fuel
Shift light
GPS
That would be eight. Yup, I need 8 gauges.
1FASTHOE,
Well, let's see....
Tach
Speedo
H2O temp
Oil press.
Volts
Fuel
Shift light
GPS
That would be eight. Yup, I need 8 gauges.
- Skidmark
- Posts: 3506
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:19 pm
MNAirhead wrote:
I don't see any dots... I drew lines across the part to indicate the start and stop point of the bend radius, then had to draw two more father apart so I could line it up with the brake dies... I used the small brake at my work to bend it (4' bolster).Are the dots on your skid plate... visual markers for a brake.. or are they perferations for a home bend?
- Leatherneck
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- Skidmark
- Posts: 3506
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:19 pm
I hit McKenzie's today and finally got the last of the lines and fittings for my brakes. After I got home, I was looking at where I want the bulkhead fitting to come through the rear firewall and thought... screw it. I pulled the engine and trans back out of the car. I had to replace the rear toraion bars anyway with the new 30mm SAW's that I got. So it all came back out agaaaiiin....
This is after I finished installing the torsion bars and spring plates.
I also finished drilling the last holes for the mid mount while the trans was out.
I also took the opportunity to put in a lock pin for the rear torsion pivot bolt. I just cut a short length of 1.75 dia. X .12w tubing, drilled a cross hole, and stitch welded them on. The pins are a ball detent pin tso they can't come out ontheir own - $1.28 at the local hardware store...
Tomorrow the drivetrain goes back in and the rear brake lines get installed. I should be able to finish the front skid plate and the front brake lines as well. I am under garage arrest until Sunday night... must keep working............
This is after I finished installing the torsion bars and spring plates.
I also finished drilling the last holes for the mid mount while the trans was out.
I also took the opportunity to put in a lock pin for the rear torsion pivot bolt. I just cut a short length of 1.75 dia. X .12w tubing, drilled a cross hole, and stitch welded them on. The pins are a ball detent pin tso they can't come out ontheir own - $1.28 at the local hardware store...
Tomorrow the drivetrain goes back in and the rear brake lines get installed. I should be able to finish the front skid plate and the front brake lines as well. I am under garage arrest until Sunday night... must keep working............
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- Skidmark
- Posts: 3506
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:19 pm
I haven't thought about a residual valve. Aren't those only required when the wheel cylinders are above the M/C's? Both of my M/C's are above the wheel cylinders. They are both 3/4" CNC's with a balance bar. I am using #3 AN fittings everywere except the wheel cylinders and end of the hard lines. Those are the 10mm metric bubble flare. Let me know about the residual valve... not sure if I need one.
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- Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 7:45 pm
...and here I was hoping you had the answer for me... I knew about using one if the MC was below, but I thought I heard along the way to use one regardless. I was wondering also since I am running the dual MC pedal. I will see if I can dig up where I read that, maybe someone can chime in. Info about setting up and hardlining brakes seems few and far inbetween.Skidmark wrote:Let me know about the residual valve... not sure if I need one.