How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filter
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uh60ce
Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
And here I thought the filter on my buggy was dirty after yesterdays little off road jaunt ....I guess I should have left it for another year
that turbo filter looks like it was ready to have potatoes planted in it...
- ntsqd
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
FYI the filter element used in the UMP's is a Donaldson element. I believe that the Donaldson selection criteria is heavily biased towards off highway construction equipment and results in more filter than an off road car needs. Because of the should-be shorter maintenance interval, recreational vehicles can very likely use a smaller filter than their recommendation.
An alternative is the FJ62/FJ80 Toyota filter assembly. This filter is sized for use similar to off highway construction vehicles with an engine that is 4 liters in size and has a ~4.5k redline. The trick is to get the OE filter element as it is washable & reusable, but you do NOT oil it! I'm using one of these on my still IP 5.7L TPI swap into an FJ60. Shipped from American Toyota with the 'Mud discount the OE element was about $35.
An alternative is the FJ62/FJ80 Toyota filter assembly. This filter is sized for use similar to off highway construction vehicles with an engine that is 4 liters in size and has a ~4.5k redline. The trick is to get the OE filter element as it is washable & reusable, but you do NOT oil it! I'm using one of these on my still IP 5.7L TPI swap into an FJ60. Shipped from American Toyota with the 'Mud discount the OE element was about $35.
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winifredevw
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
I just went and bought a filter from a local equipment/junk yard today. It came from a John Deere 410 backhoe. I think I paid a premium price, $160. It came with both elements, neither one looks dirty, plus a pre-filter that works off of centrifigal force. It also came with both straps to mount it and the really heavy-duty rubber hose that goes from 3 1/2" to 3".
It measures about 6" diameter by 14" in length. Looks like 3" inlet and 3 1/2" outlet.
It measures about 6" diameter by 14" in length. Looks like 3" inlet and 3 1/2" outlet.
- Leatherneck
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
Nice score on the air cleaner.
Added How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filter to the stickies. See if we can't keep the BS to a minimum.
Added How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filter to the stickies. See if we can't keep the BS to a minimum.
- Turbo_Manx_Maniac
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
winifredevw wrote:I just went and bought a filter from a local equipment/junk yard today. It came from a John Deere 410 backhoe. I think I paid a premium price, $160. It came with both elements, neither one looks dirty, plus a pre-filter that works off of centrifigal force. It also came with both straps to mount it and the really heavy-duty rubber hose that goes from 3 1/2" to 3".![]()
It measures about 6" diameter by 14" in length. Looks like 3" inlet and 3 1/2" outlet.
Can you post a few pics?
These things take some serious real estate, where are you mounting it?
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- Turbo_Manx_Maniac
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
Looking at this one: http://www.advancedaircleanersystems.com/superflow.htm
It's relatively small sized and flows 470 CFM. Element should last for several years even in silt. $250
Alternatively, this looks interesting too: Donaldson Duralite ECC C105017. ~$50 and flows ~400 CFM. Doesn't look as "off-road" as the UMP-like filters, but it's cheap and should flow well.
It's relatively small sized and flows 470 CFM. Element should last for several years even in silt. $250
Alternatively, this looks interesting too: Donaldson Duralite ECC C105017. ~$50 and flows ~400 CFM. Doesn't look as "off-road" as the UMP-like filters, but it's cheap and should flow well.
Last edited by Turbo_Manx_Maniac on Tue Jun 28, 2011 5:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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winifredevw
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
Here's the "exploded view" of what I bought. When I first got it, everything was painted heavily with that gawd-awfull yellow. I stripped the housing and gave it a rattle can coat of paint.Turbo_Manx_Maniac wrote: Can you post a few pics?
These things take some serious real estate, where are you mounting it?

I trimmed a little fat from the intake side of the air box.


I don't know where I'll mount it just yet, but maybe here...

- bajaherbie
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
touchdown!
nice score....
nice score....
Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.
- Turbo_Manx_Maniac
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
Looks cool, though I think it will be restrictive for a larger motor.
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- Punchdrunk Monkey
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
This is the filter I have. I have checked it twice over the last 1400 miles and it looks good as new.Turbo_Manx_Maniac wrote:Looking at this one: http://www.advancedaircleanersystems.com/superflow.htm
It's relatively small sized and flows 470 CFM. Element should last for several years even in silt. $250
- Turbo_Manx_Maniac
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
I ordered a Donaldson Duralite ECC105104 and it showed up today. I picked this one because it flows 400 CFM, it's 10" X 10". $45
Curious how it will hold up to the desert silt and dust vs one of the alum canister types
OK, it's frickin huge. And yes I hear that alot.
Think it may take up too much real estate. Gonna let PDM borrow it and see how loud it is.
4" outlet That's a quarter in the picture, not an atom.
Curious how it will hold up to the desert silt and dust vs one of the alum canister types
OK, it's frickin huge. And yes I hear that alot.
Think it may take up too much real estate. Gonna let PDM borrow it and see how loud it is.
4" outlet That's a quarter in the picture, not an atom.
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- fusername
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
With centrifigul ones at least it is good to make sure it flows the same cfm as your engine . Too little and it will be restrictive, too much and the centrifugal side of it wont work
give a man a watch and he'll allways know what time it is. give him two and he can never be sure again.
Things are rarely just crazy enough to work, but they're frequently just crazy enough to fail hilariously.
Things are rarely just crazy enough to work, but they're frequently just crazy enough to fail hilariously.
- Leatherneck
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
TMM what is the largest engine do you think that filter would be able to feed?Turbo_Manx_Maniac wrote:Looks cool, though I think it will be restrictive for a larger motor.
- ntsqd
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
Engine size will depend on realistic redline of the engine. RPM times displacement (converted to cubic feet) times 0.8 (or so for us normally aspirated folks) = CFM.
The thing that make it hard to compare is that filters (& some carbs) are rated for flow at a particular pressure drop. Unfortunately, they don't all use the same pressure drop, and that affects the results tremendously.
The thing that make it hard to compare is that filters (& some carbs) are rated for flow at a particular pressure drop. Unfortunately, they don't all use the same pressure drop, and that affects the results tremendously.
Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite
- Turbo_Manx_Maniac
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Re: How to tell for sure if you need to clean your air filte
Leatherneck wrote:TMM what is the largest engine do you think that filter would be able to feed?Turbo_Manx_Maniac wrote:Looks cool, though I think it will be restrictive for a larger motor.
Engine size is only one of the variables, on a turbo motor you need to add in how much boost you are going to make to get more realistic CFM requirements. At 14.7 psi of boost you are putting 2 times the air through the motor. They rate the filters on pressure drop in inches of water at the rated CFM flow through the filter. Every filter will present some resistance to air flowing through it, a manometer can measure the resistance via a reading of inches of water. If you flow a 300 cfm filter at 300 cfm, then adjust to flow 400 cfm the resistance at the inlet of the filter will increase. They rate the filters so you know how much resistance you will have at a specific air flow. This also helps you determine how the filter will perform when it starts getting dirty.
I used this formula - 2.3 liters (engine size in liters) * 6000 rpm * 85 (Volumetric efficiency) * 1.82 (Pressure ratio = ((14.7+ boost psi(12))/14.7) all divided by 5660.
My engine with no boost needs ~200 cfm.
At 12 psi I need 375 cfm (This is the boost level I intend to run).
At 20 psi I would need almost 500 cfm.
A 1915 running 10 psi would need ~275 cfm, this filter would probably be overkill.
This filter is good for ~400 cfm, so it will feed my engine at 12-14 psi.
The formula is a little conservative, you won't actually draw as many CFM as calculated, but it's a good guide line to allow for the filter to plug up a little.
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