Shock Setup

Offroad VW based vehicles have problems/insights all their own. Not to mention the knowledge gained in VW durability.

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JRam1979
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2017 10:51 am

Re: Shock Setup

Post by JRam1979 » Tue Nov 14, 2017 5:36 pm

Norm, from floor to roof is 42". Did you built your front shock mounts? Of are that an kit?

Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13213
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: Shock Setup

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:04 pm

J, you could either rename this string or start a new build string.

If you notice on Norm's rail the shock towers of the beam are not part of the beam. Those AL beams with shock towers have a tendency for the shock tower to not flex a lot and crack/fail. At the least I would put a spreader bar between the two shock towers to take up some of the loading.

Norm was also talking about the tie-rods hitting the frame. If your not going with mass travel then a R&P box using end links are a way I have seen it done. I'm not sure how they do it but front steering racks are getting more common to see.
5-point seat belt dimensions.jpg
A hoop behind the seats is a good idea but it also can make access to the rear seats a bit awkward (see tree guards below). It would also make the harnesses attach more correctly; they way they are attached right now is not the best way. There is a hoop there mounted to the rear hoop but it depends on how the connectons between the front pillar, the rear pillar and the hoop off the rear hoop are attached to each other but putting in the second hoop I think would be a safer option.

I can't tell where you are from or ride but if there are trees around where you ride then tree guards would be a good idea. They also are good in tight places to keep the tires from hitting and hurting the rear suspension (from experience). One of the advantages here is you could put a floor (diamond plate AL?) on the tree guard so you can not only use it as a step, especially for the back seat entrance, but it helps to keep rock and other debris thrown up by the tires away from people riding inside of your buggy. I see them more and more where I ride.

If you ride on rocky trails then rock sliders might be a good idea to put under the frame. If you have an expanded metal floor and are not riding in the sand or in sand where tree branches or other stuff such as rock/gravel that could come up through the floors then I would look into converting over to a solid floor if you don't have it already. Expanded metal on the floor is still in use on the sand.

Just some thoughts

Lee

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Last edited by Ol'fogasaurus on Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

JRam1979
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2017 10:51 am

Re: Shock Setup

Post by JRam1979 » Tue Nov 14, 2017 8:14 pm

Norm, floor to foor is 42". Did you fab your front shock mounts or did you buy a kit?

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Sandbar Norm
Posts: 61
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 3:49 pm
Location: Bradenton Fl.

Re: Shock Setup

Post by Sandbar Norm » Wed Nov 15, 2017 8:13 am

Hi JRam, Mine is 34" to 36" floor to roof.
I fab the shock hoops myself when I rebuilt the front end. It looks like I am going to get to do it again. This time I don't think I'm going to do the hoops. I'm going to triangle straight tubing to fab the upper shock boss.

I will start a build form when it goes under the knife. Just not much to show yet and still asking some question as I'm not sure of which way the build be.

Back to the original forum. For rear shocks, I'm looking at FOX 2-1/2" dia. maybe 16" long. We will see ($$$).
Norm

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