I suggest using the cars heating system with the following kit:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... an+booster
The car puts out some serious heat and the kit draws air from inside your car, but uses the existing heating system to actually heat the air. It also has a variable speed fan to adjust the heating level.
Heated seats are also nice. Summit has some inserts that go under your existing upolstery... sorry I didn't get the link.
inside heater
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Arnolds64
- Posts: 259
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 12:45 pm
I have done this type. Works great!
[quote="Sampenni"]I suggest using the cars heating system with the following kit:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... an+booster
The car puts out some serious heat and the kit draws air from inside your car, but uses the existing heating system to actually heat the air. It also has a variable speed fan to adjust the heating level.
I did this type of system because I could not get the exhaust smell out of it. Did everything I could. This system eliminated it. I actually built my own for allot less. The little fans are the same Marine Turbo fans that they sell on e-bay as electric superchargers. Anyway, go to a Marine Store and they will have them for about 20.00 each. You also need some wire. Some old speaker wire I had worked fine. 16GA is what I used. You cut 2 holes in the Firewall below the rear window to where you can attach the flexible heater tubing on each side of the shroud. Then I slipped in a another set of the tin splice adapters you use to hook the original Heater tubes that go through the engine rear tin. You can rig up what you want here but they work well. Just make sure to cut the hole smaller than the little ridge on them so they will not pull through. Just measure the rear tin hole for reference. I used the metal type stock flexible heater tubing that I already had. I just stretched it farther and it worked great. Of course you have to cut out the diffusers under the seats to put the Marine Head "Turbo Fans" Under the seats. You have to do this with the JC Whitney one too. I have only one speed with just a toggle switch to turn it on. YOu could get a detent switch from Radio shack I am sure. Just wired it up and it was ready. You still use the stock valve to open and close the boxes as usual.
They blow so hard that the defrosters blew all kinds of dirt and shiot the first time I turned it on. All told about 60 bucks?
It is little noisier than stock inside. During the summer I just made some foam wedges that I stuff in the rear window holes. This cuts down on the engine noise. As far as heat it works very well. It was not super hot but we get down to the teens here and once it warms up it does not let you freeze. My old heater (aftermarket) boxes however do not have the good stock fins which I am sure is the reason it did not get very hot. But it was good enough. Defroster work allot better too as mentioned.
This is a great setup. I think it might just keep a few of our brain cells in tact ? Less Carbon Minoxide? Less syphoning of air from the engine as well.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... an+booster
The car puts out some serious heat and the kit draws air from inside your car, but uses the existing heating system to actually heat the air. It also has a variable speed fan to adjust the heating level.
I did this type of system because I could not get the exhaust smell out of it. Did everything I could. This system eliminated it. I actually built my own for allot less. The little fans are the same Marine Turbo fans that they sell on e-bay as electric superchargers. Anyway, go to a Marine Store and they will have them for about 20.00 each. You also need some wire. Some old speaker wire I had worked fine. 16GA is what I used. You cut 2 holes in the Firewall below the rear window to where you can attach the flexible heater tubing on each side of the shroud. Then I slipped in a another set of the tin splice adapters you use to hook the original Heater tubes that go through the engine rear tin. You can rig up what you want here but they work well. Just make sure to cut the hole smaller than the little ridge on them so they will not pull through. Just measure the rear tin hole for reference. I used the metal type stock flexible heater tubing that I already had. I just stretched it farther and it worked great. Of course you have to cut out the diffusers under the seats to put the Marine Head "Turbo Fans" Under the seats. You have to do this with the JC Whitney one too. I have only one speed with just a toggle switch to turn it on. YOu could get a detent switch from Radio shack I am sure. Just wired it up and it was ready. You still use the stock valve to open and close the boxes as usual.
They blow so hard that the defrosters blew all kinds of dirt and shiot the first time I turned it on. All told about 60 bucks?
It is little noisier than stock inside. During the summer I just made some foam wedges that I stuff in the rear window holes. This cuts down on the engine noise. As far as heat it works very well. It was not super hot but we get down to the teens here and once it warms up it does not let you freeze. My old heater (aftermarket) boxes however do not have the good stock fins which I am sure is the reason it did not get very hot. But it was good enough. Defroster work allot better too as mentioned.
This is a great setup. I think it might just keep a few of our brain cells in tact ? Less Carbon Minoxide? Less syphoning of air from the engine as well.