Time to freshen up

Notches, fastbacks, squarebacks.

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Max Welton
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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Tue Dec 02, 2014 1:46 pm

Thanks Nate. With a little more work that 911 engine would go in nicely... ;-)

Max

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Max Welton
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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Tue Dec 09, 2014 5:14 pm

Why, it's almost like Christmas.

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by aircooledtechguy » Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:21 am

Max Welton wrote:
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Looks like a Berg order to me. . . :lol: 8)

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Wed Dec 10, 2014 1:09 pm

The pump anyways. The juicy lifters are from Roy Henning. :-)

Max

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Tue Jan 06, 2015 7:21 pm

Heads are done

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Sqrbckguy38 » Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:59 am

Still looks great. Love those heads. A question though, how do you like that W-100 cam? Did it give you any noticable performance over a stock, and why not go with a 110 or a 120 perhaps? On your megasquirt, did it idle and drive just fine? Also, what size valves are in these heads? I have a few sets of stock t3 heads I want to run bigger valves in but have been considering a few options.

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Sun Jan 11, 2015 12:48 pm

IIRC these are 044 CB heads with 40 x 35.5mm valves and single HD springs. A little chamber work was originally done by Steve Hollingsworth. I choose the W-100 to get a little more power but still in the range I use in daily-driving. That means 1000-3500 rpms. I'm no cam expert but I think the way a 110 or 120 gets more HP is by extending the rpm range. That would be useless to me and probably require dual springs.

This engine delivers a noticeable performance increase over stock, particularly at lower elevations. It's like a whole different engine in, say, Portland OR than it is here at 7500 feet. But I can't tell you how much of that is due to the cam. It is a 1776 so some of the bump is just from the displacement increase.

The MS FI system can absolutely give the driveability of the original D-Jet systems and can approach that of the systems you find in new cars. It is DIY and much depends on the tuner (you). There are also some sensors that MS can run without but that help greatly in tuning (a full-time WB O2 sensor) or that allow more functionality (idle control valve).

When I pulled this engine down, the idle had become a little lumpy. I measured #3 leakdown at ~50% and I later found that one of the injectors was flowing about 30% less than the others. I don't know which cylinder that injector was on, but with the injectors all flowing the same and the top-end nice and fresh I expect to have a nice smooth idle and good DD performance once again.

Max

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Sun Jan 11, 2015 5:05 pm

Today all the liquids in my unheated shop were all thawed. So the case is now clean, the pistons all clean and the crank is assembled. A good day.

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by aircooledtechguy » Mon Jan 12, 2015 9:55 am

Sqrbckguy38 wrote:A question though, how do you like that W-100 cam? Did it give you any noticable performance over a stock, and why not go with a 110 or a 120 perhaps?
Max Welton wrote:I choose the W-100 to get a little more power but still in the range I use in daily-driving. That means 1000-3500 rpms. I'm no cam expert but I think the way a 110 or 120 gets more HP is by extending the rpm range. That would be useless to me and probably require dual springs.
A 110 is popular for sure, but on a mild stock stroke engine like a 1776cc, it makes very little power below 2K-2.2K rpms. Then is really comes alive around 2.5K-5.5K rpms. Fun for a high compression weekend warrior car, but is not the best combo for a DD. A 1776cc w/ a 120 cam is a joke to drive on the street. With a small motor like that makes no power until 3K+ and is fun from there to around 6-6.5K. Well out of the normal DD range since most folks are shifting by 3-4K rpms.

When you put a 110 in a mild stroker motor, the stroke gives you back that lost bottom-end torque and it really pours on the power when it gets on the cam. Same goes for a 120 but you need a pretty aggressive stroke and tailor your engine combo to make that work in a DD. But then you're beyond a DD motor. . . :wink:

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:17 am

OK, cam question for you guys. It has been suggested to me that an ordinary W100 isn't going to have the right profile for the hydraulic lifters. So, what is a W100 equivalent for hydraulics?

Max

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by aircooledtechguy » Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:47 am

You can have Webcam grind you a cam with any profile you want. Just be sure to tell them you plan to run hyd lifters and they will grind it with the right profile that is complimentary with hyd lifters. They can help you with cam selection too.

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Mon Feb 09, 2015 12:25 pm

What do you think of the Web 111? Supposed to be for making torque with a small engine.

They don't have an 800 number so I won't be able to call till I get home.

Max

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:12 pm

A good friend of mine waved me off the Webcam 111. Described it as "violent" on the valvetrain and that I shouldn't expect more than 5000 miles out of the valvetrain. Totally not what I need in my daily-driver engine.

I should be able to get a hydraulic version of the W100.

Max

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by aircooledtechguy » Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:29 am

The Web 119 is about identical to the W100 grind.

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Re: Time to freshen up

Post by Max Welton » Sun Feb 22, 2015 11:41 pm

First fire tonight. But there's a problem. The hydraulic lifters aren't pumping up. I dropped an email to Roy Henning but I wouldn't mind some thoughts from you fine people. Especially if you have experience with hydraulics.

The cam is an SLR EXV264Hyd on 106º lobe centers. Before I put the lifters in the case I submerged each one in oil and worked out the air with a pushrod. But then it took me a couple of weeks to get to first fire.

The case is great and has bronze lifter bores. The lifters fit the case beautifully.

For the initial adjustment I measured the working range of the lifter at a bit under 3mm. At the adjuster that is a little less than 3 turns (1mm thread pitch). I thought the lifters would pump up better if they were moving through most of their working range. So I set them at 1/2 turn into the lifter spring. 1-1/2 turns would be near the center of the lifter working range.

It's been effin cold here lately. In fact the IAT says it was right around freezing in the barn when I started it for the first time tonight. The oil is 10w30 Brad Penn. When I cranked for oil pressure I got 50 psi. That's probably ~250 rpms on the starter with the plugs out.

Any suggestions?

Max

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