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Sounds normal to me over tiny little computer speaker..

Wouldn't a rod knock sound like a failed rod bearing knock?
Where you have to hold high RPM, and then let off slightly to hear it..?

long time coming:

https://youtu.be/DqucoFOCJmA

so happy now.

i wonder what a decent kpa should be for my engine. i suppose i just need to make sure my MAP sensor is working.

Stockish cam, stockish idle base timing etc between 40-50 kpa at warm idle.
(Im running a web73)
If you run more initial timing it will likely be on the low end of that rage.
Decel will be lower.

Harbor freight sells a really nice hand vac/pressure pump that puts any mityvac to shame, I use mine a lot more frequently than I used the mityvac..
HF also sells a cheaper brass bodied vac only pump that would probably work for brakes.

Mityvac discontinued the "metal" version of their pump as it was expensive and zinc pot metal frequently can't survive a drop on concrete.

The HF "Maddox" branded unit is anodized aluminum and steel, with oring seals, comes in a decent storage case with useful adapters...
You could probably run it over and do no harm except to the gauge.

i tested my map sensor with my vac/pressure pump and it appears to be working. i suppose the "hog-ass" cam i put in this engine just doesn't have that much vacuum at idle.

Do a search using "too much cam in an engine" and you will find some interesting discussions. This is an old problem that it doesn't want to stop until we go to "all electric" or something like that (not necessarily a big fan of electric until the can go over 400 miles w/o taking a week to recharge ). There can be too much trade off and in many different directions too. Loss of air-flow (vacuum) is one of them.

I have a tendency to run a "split duration cam" with a high lift and short duration grind; this for bottom end torque but split duration cams don't work as well on some engine designs as they do on others. There are a lot of cam design choices out there each capable of doing different things on engine designs and it is hard to make a "cold look" choice w/o knowing more about the engine you are working on and what you want it do to.

Lee

Newer electrics can do 400 miles and fully recharge in about an hour and a half... and to ~80% in half that.
...totally depending on the charger.

They are viable for probably 90% of folks in the US.
Note a lot of folks rent a car for long trips anyway, so unless you live in the remote wilderness off grid, electric is probably viable now.

...of course they are not "free! get it out of my yard", or ever likely to be, so I'll probably never have one.

Piledriver wrote: ↑Fri Nov 13, 2020 7:58 am Newer electrics can do 400 miles and fully recharge in about an hour and a half... and to ~80% in half that.
...totally depending on the charger.

They are viable for probably 90% of folks in the US.
Note a lot of folks rent a car for long trips anyway, so unless you live in the remote wilderness off grid, electric is probably viable now.

...of course they are not "free! get it out of my yard", or ever likely to be, so I'll probably never have one.

My 400 mile limit (plus or minus a couple of miles stops for fuel or food) is the distance from where we stay at the dunes. The trip usually runs from 7 1/2 to 8 hours unless there is an incident in traffic along the way. This time of the year you leave in the dark and arrive in the dark and I am in the dark most of the time too .

As far as I know the auto industry hasn't caught up with that ("Every car in Tesla’s lineup is capable of over 300 miles of range, and the Tesla Model S has an EPA-rated 402 miles, which is much more than any other EV ever produced." This is the results of a search I just did.)

Lee

Add'n: Ian Roussel did a dune buggy conversion using an old electric motor and to a forward and reverse gear box which was pretty cool but out on the sand, things might be different. The batteries would probably have to be the solid type not the fluid type due to the un-even sand (bouncing around on the ruts left by others). I would be interesting to find the weight difference between the necessary amount of batteries used vs. the weight of the engine and fuel. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Ca ... BasicHover The battery size, weight and type are kind of hard to research... so far.

Lee

I think I have heard about one of two electric conversions out there but nothing more than a "once" situation.

i was being silly about my 'hawg-ass cam'. i seriously believe i could never have enough camshaft. i am not of a mind that i need to turn left in 3rd gear. i am pretty sure i know where 1st gear is.

You must remember they make a point of putting most near-highway based charging stations within a stroll to a place to eat...
Its a working concept.

squeakie wrote: ↑Sat Nov 14, 2020 6:10 pm i was being silly about my 'hawg-ass cam'. i seriously believe i could never have enough camshaft. i am not of a mind that i need to turn left in 3rd gear. i am pretty sure i know where 1st gear is.

You must remember that "Two wrongs don't make a right but three lefts do!"

I've been playing with cars since the late '50 and have seen a lot of change both good a bad. The cam's design and choice has to be made based on what you are trying to accomplish with it (it can get expensive that way but even little minor changes in one engine to another "similar" engine build can make a big difference in what any particular cam design can accomplish).

Lee