That fits, for most definitions of "fits", you just need air shocks
I assume you had a fork lift...
A video of getting it back out could have been either an epic comedy or tragedy.
Those have a crane lift loop on top for good reason.
The word "portable" was not found anywhere in the manuals for those.
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The T3 bellows is not a feature, its really not needed at ALL. The new ones all seem to be garbage, so i punted on third down.
I just use a bit of 6" wide silicone coated fiberglass fabric, with a spring tensioned wire on either end pulling it closed.
You could probably use some sort of high temp elastic or parachute cord, I used insulated 20ga wire with crimped on loops and carb return springs...
If I actually cared i would have carefully sewn it up the 2 cable runs with kevlar thread, but I just used RTV. Snaps would work too.
If it leaks it doesn't show up in the CHT on 100F++ days.
Make the T4 adapter bit the same size/location as the attachment loop around the hole in the body, give it a ~1 inch even gap, and its on/off in 30 seconds. I wrapped some 1/4" brake line around mine and tacked in place, makes for a no-cut edge.
The metal bit is almost as fast to R&R if you build it like mine, used 1" 5/16" hex OD, 10/32 steel standoff nuts, drilled and tapped for 6mm, 2 on the bottom and one on top, all accessible outside the adapter.
Would be easiest to make those "long headed bolts" with locktited in studs, lack of bits sticking out makes removing the adapter for whatever a lot easier.
You don't actually have to remove the adapter from the car to replace the belt,.
If i had a T3 motor in it i'd likely do the same.
I think I put pics in the "T4 into T3" thread with Nates pattern, but mine has evolved a bit over time Because Welder
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