Spark Plug Wires?

[Max Welton]

I'm trying to decide if it's time to replace my spark plug wires.

The resistance I just measured runs from 200k for #1 to 120k for #4.

I would be appropriate to treat me as if I were not an electrical genius.

Max

[Piledriver]

What is the ignition setup?

If you are still using a distributor, the "house brand" spiral wound Magnecors for a Vanagon work great.
Needs a Vanagon/Rabbit/Golf cap as the cap side connections are different than std/early ones.

It might be a good time to consider again going crank fire, there's as much or more performance and economy to be had with the fully mappable ignition than the FI... just sayin.

A set of LS2 coils/connectors and 4 long HD twincam plug wires can be scored for about what you will spend on a good set of std plug wires.
(The long Twincam wires (resistor wire) are only $3 ea, short ones are $11 ea, go figure)

The only ECU mod needed to drive those in waste spark are 2 1K resistors on the outer LED drivers (5v pullup) and fine wires to route them to the output pads of your choice.

[Max Welton]

Ignition is near stock. Bosch "blue" coil, stock type-3 distributor with a Compufire points-replacement module. These wires say "Aurora" 8.5mm Super Mag Plus on them.

Yeah, I would love to go crank-fire ... use that trigger wheel that supersuc has for the type-3 engine. Figure I'd need to take the car out of service for a week or so to do it.

Honestly, the bit about not being an electrical genius is for real. Soldering anything on or near my MS is scary stuff to me. I still have a second MAP sensor sitting here I've been meaning to connect.

Max

[Piledriver]

Hm...The Vanagon cap also has the same connection for the coil wire, so it also wants the Vanagon/Golf "transistorized ignition" lowZ coil to connect to...
... uses a connection similar to the plug end on both ends, and running THAT coil would require a driver, either the matching dwell-controlling Bosch one or use the MS, using the pertronix as trigger only.

Forget that upgrade, you are >halfway to being crank fired effort and cost wise at that point.

All I can suggest is see if they have the spiral wounds for the T1 at Autozone/OReillys in order to "just fix it" , or decide on your level of pain at upgrading fully.

[Max Welton]

I replaced the plugs with fresh NGKs. This has made a significant improvement. I have some fresh Bosch wires on the way.

Here are the old plugs, 1-4 from the left. #3 look a little light to you guys?



OK, tomorrow I'm planning a trip to a local salvage yard. I'd like to scope out some bits on which to base a wasted-spark CNP setup. I have the MS2 in the squareback and also a MS3 that will go into my KG project.

Suggestions?

Max

[Piledriver]

With modern fuel/additives plug coloration has become about as good an indicator as reading tea leaves, perhaps less so.

It can tell you if you have been knocking (inspect with jewlers loupe for tiny metal bits) and preignition (check for missing bits) but the best you are going to see on pump gas, esp if it isn't a hard shutdown after a WOT run is a tiny amount of tan unless you are pig rich.

Newish plugs don''t take a color at all easily, BTW.

#3 running a few degrees hotter could easily account for the color difference, esp over time.

Unless you can score a set of LS2 coils/pigtails off a later model pickup, I can't recommend anything.
On ebay all the time, I currently have the normal LS2 coils installed and they work great, did try out a set of the stuck coils, they DO kick much harder, but the mounting setup is different, so I will save then for the 2.5 install.

If you want to add drivers, it opens up the possibilities, but I have grown to really like the LS2 coils.

I switched to iridium plugs awhile back, will pull them every 10-12K (oil change) and see how they hold up.

[Max Welton]

It looks like I can get a set of four new LS2s off Ebay for under a C-note (without connectors). I'll see if I can do better at the salvage yard.

Also, it looks like my MS3 (with its MS3X board) will drive those without any mods on my part.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/mega ... p-476.html

The MSII would require mods (MS Sequencer? http://www.megamanual.com/seq/index.htm ), but I have to bust my soldering cherry sometime. Maybe I'll start by adding the second baro (map) sensor.

Max

[Piledriver]

MS2 needs parts removed to go sequential. and an external driver for the injectors.
If you have a v3.57 SMD board, it's impractical.

jbperf.com sells a lowZ 4 channel injector driver as well as a 4 channel driver board for 4 channel ignition and 4 highZ injectors.
Jean also wrote the sequential code.
http://forum.jbperf.com/index.php

(sequential caused the rewite for the msextra-v3.x code, and was the code foundation for ms3)

If you shop a little you can get 8 ls2 coils/pigtails for that.
You still need a wheel and pickup--- I juggest a Hall sensor if the wheel is compatible.

I in no way want to discourage you from going MS3, though.

[Max Welton]

I in no way want to discourage you from going MS3, though.

Oh, that ship has sailed.

I already have the MS3 w/ the MS3X board.

Turns out nothing currently in the junk yard has any LS2s. I guess it's ebay for me.

Max

[Piledriver]

I in no way want to discourage you from going MS3, though.

Oh, that ship has sailed.

I already have the MS3 w/ the MS3X board.

Turns out nothing currently in the junk yard has any LS2s. I guess it's ebay for me.

Max

Supas gsxr coils work well, and a set can be had cheap.
He might even have a spare set...

[Steve Arndt]

I have some CBR 900 coils I will sell cheap. They are too long for an upright conversion, but dandy for a pancake T3. PM me if you are interested. I only need 25 bucks plus shipping to break even.




edit; fixed image link

[Max Welton]

At this point, I'm going to leave the type-3 as it is for now. It works well and is my daily-driver.

The MS3 and new ignition will be for the type-1 KG. Until I mock-up the TBs in the engine bay, I don't really what COPs may or may not fit. That wouldn't seem to be an issue with LS2 CNPs.

Max

[Piledriver]

I have some CBR 900 coils I will sell cheap. They are too long for an upright conversion, but dandy for a pancake T3. PM me if you are interested. I only need 25 bucks plus shipping to break even.

[img]http://myweb.cableone.net/stevearndt/efi/efi111.JPG[img]

I dont know, if you have the non-2L plug location on a cali conversion, long is good.
not sure why that img isn't linking...
I can see `em if i paste it ino the address bar...

[GTIXpress]

What is the difference between the LS2 coils and the CBR 900 coils? Also in the picture, which are the 900's since there appear to be two styles?

[Steve Arndt]

Redline IGN1 on the left, CBR on the right. CBR are coil on plug, the IGN is coil near plug.
The IGN1 is the most powerful coil available.

Steve