T3--Under dash aftermarket AC unit review//install

[Ravivos]

Thanks.
I should go with an alternator, but dont know if i can get the RX7 here in Israel.
i know it's a bit of a sidetrack from the original post, but do you have a link to a post talking about this conversion? Mybe i'll be able to get a list of cars using such an alt, then go on a hunt.
thanks.

[Piledriver]

There's probably a thread here as well but here's what you need:
http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/ttt/ ... tml#custom

Should be a pretty common alternator, IIRC was even used in some fork lifts etc.

[helowrench]

Pile, give us an update. How did it work after all?

[Piledriver]

Pile, give us an update. How did it work after all?

Still haven't run the lines or put in a condensor, but the compressor & belt haven't fallen off yet!

The under-dash unit is critical for the heating system as it blows the hot air from the BN4 around.
...otherwise it smells like my wiring is starting to melt behind the dash.

If the weather holds I may drop the engine this weekend to box in an a section for more line clearance for the compressor.

[helowrench]

Gotcha. I ask because I was starting to look at how I would do the ac install for the bug.

[Piledriver]

That's a LOT more straightforward that doing it on a bug vs. with an T4 n a T3, there are t1 kits on the market.
If you want to DIY, find a compressor mount for a YORK and just buy the adapter for a compact Sanden, and a high efficiency parallel flow condenser. T1 under-dash units are as common as salt.

I gave a good gauge set for R12 or R134a, I (strangely) do not have a vacuum pump.
I also have a ginormous bag of green orings for R134a.

[helowrench]

Have access to vac pump and expert tutelage from neighbor (he does it for a living). I was looking at universal units, but I am going to have to drag out the ghia unit and have a look see.

[dcstinger]

What's your plan for locating & mounting the condenser & drier?

[itawolf]

Not to hijack
But I just picked up a standard 74 beetle
A sun bug with ac
Is the ac worth anything
It's the only thing not working
Car is org
One owner

[Piledriver]

Not to hijack
But I just picked up a standard 74 beetle
A sun bug with ac
Is the ac worth anything
It's the only thing not working
Car is org
One owner

The original York compressors are huge, heavy, and horribly inefficient.
The under dash units are very simple setups.

OTOH, the Yorks are also ~bulletproof and easily rebuilt.
If it still spins and the clutch works it may still work just fine.
The under dash unit may just need cleaned and some oil on the fan motor, and a new expansion valve goes there.

You can probably disconnect everything, replace all the black orings (for R12) with the green 134A compatible versions, stick a new receiver/dryer on it, a new expansion valve, vacuum check it , charge it and it will work fine.
(you should also flush all the lines/compressor with special solvent, but some folks just use denatured alcohol chased by a lot of compressed air)

If you get the proper synthetic oil, you can use your old lines, but the orings are toast anyway after 40 years.
(the "normal" oil for 134a is corrosive garbage if it gets any water in it and has other bad habits, avoid, the synthetic costs very little more)
You can get a lifetime supply of orings for ~$7-10, just order a "kit" for your car from Autozone.
(It needed ~6-8 orings, there are about 100 of various sizes in the bag)

It is likely to benefit from a modern condenser up front efficiency wise, but it should work.
You can also buy an adapter bracket to mount a more modern Sanden compressor in place of the York.

[dcstinger]

Use a Sanden, don't waste your time with the York/CCI. If your are going to retrofit a R12 system to R134a there are some other things you need to do in addition to replacing the compressor.

[Piledriver]

Got the "go" from the Wife, will be ordering the condenser, PAO oil and hoses/fittings this week.
(Still trying to make my mind up where to put the condenser or condensers )

Still considering R12A (propane blend) but will probably just end up using 134A.

[Steve Arndt]

Pile, the vanagon A/C guys recommend Redtek vs R12 or R134 in our older setups.
36 pages:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=292488

[Piledriver]

Pile, the vanagon A/C guys recommend Redtek vs R12 or R134 in our older setups.
36 pages:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=292488

RedTEC is just a brand of R12A.

This is a new 2014-vintage system...absolutely zero 40+ year old VW dealer AC bits.
Using 2010-2011 vintage Delphi V7 variable displacement compressor, all else new.
The car originally had AC, but all that was left was the holes, adel clamps, and some hose remnants.

The only significant downside or R12A is that it is flammable (propane), and is quite specifically illegal in Texas
...although I'm sure that was more due to DOW buying politicians as they can't patent it, rather than actual safety reasons.

[dcstinger]

I know a bit about this stuff. Just use the R134A and be done with it. Generally speaking, you cannot get the condenser too big (btu capacity) so make it as big as possible. That means the biggest, most efficient coil that will fit in the given space and the most ridiculous amount of CLEAN airflow through it as possible. By clean I mean, ambient temperature air, not hot air recirculating off of the engine, exhaust or some other form of heater. Try to target your condenser airflow for 1000cfm or greater. If you can fit fans in there to get that sort of airflow, you will probably be fine. Axial motor fans work very well for this application and come in many sizes, some are even reversible giving you more design flexibility. SPAL, Tri-Pac & Revcor are some popular brands. Their biggest drawback is that their amp draw can be somewhat high, just be on the lookout for the FLA specs to make sure you do not fry the circuit you build for them.

Most automotive compressors draw between 3-8hp to operate, depending on conditions. One of the primary reasons it may use more hp to run is when you are working against high - high side (discharge) pressures. Just like an air compressor, the more pressure in the system, the harder it is for the compressor to pump against that pressure. The pressure of refrigerant goes up as the ambient temp goes up and you live in Texas, so I would expect you will have high side pressures frequently above 200psi in the summer. The heat is removed from the system via the condenser and therefore the psi also.

Good luck!