Ball joint offset?

[Piledriver]

Stabbed in a fresh set of ball joints last night, and I have a question:

The manual shows how to orient them relative to the depth of the flats, the OG fats were deeper on one side or there was a notch...

Of course the Mayle ones just have a straight flat, with no indication what "front" was.

It's sorta hard to tell now that they are installed if they are offset fwd or aft, but I think I can manage to try and figure it out from the old BJs markings/offset in daylight...

But does anyone know offhand?

As the lower joint is also offset, can one add caster by having it offset fwd and the top aft?

BTW--- So far I have found exactly one nut and no bolts in this front end that was actually properly tightened.
The ball joint offset as found was random, but that was probably because they were all loose when i got it.

[Piledriver]

OK, took a look at the old ball joints, the upper is offset back, and the lower is offset forward...
This is likely most of the "kingpin inclination" that sets caster.

The car already drives a whole lot better with the toe just eyeballed and the ball joint adjustments set to their defaults.
(Straight forward)

[Breaker]

To add caster, check your front beam's lower rubber bushings....There are two (at least, afaik) types, one with equal thicknesses of rubber on euther side, and one where the beam is offset. This is how the factory dialed in extra castor when needed. the

The ball-joints are mostly to allow for camber issues, and, I think, to allow extra adjustment for those frail lower arms....just my opinion.....

By the way- how bad do you need that airbox-fan assembly? I've given up my type 3 dreams, for now, but I'm far away...

[Piledriver]

Thanks for the offer, and the reminder I need to post a follow up...

After replacing the ball joints, re-torquing everything, installing 4 pot BMW front calipers, going through the rear end with all new poly-graphite bushings from Energy Suspension etc, SCAT shifter/new shift rod bushing etc it drives basically like a new car after an alignment... and stops on a dime, although the KYB gas-a-justs on all 4 corners are way too stiff for comfort.

The only new significant "mod" I'm considering is fabbing up some sort of mid mount for the trans, as the factory nose cone mount, while it looks in good shape, still moves too way much with ~2X the original tq, and the adapted WBX Vanagon mounts in the rear don't limit twisting quite enough for my liking.. I'll have to weld on something to attach to as it's an IRS car.

I have a full set of new window rubber/door/hood/trunk seal to install on the next warm day and the cosmetics can start. (I really need to finish the BN4 install as well, have been working and driving it 6-7 days a week)

As far as the defroster airbox, I have an empty one installed so the rain has somewhere to go... But as I'll probably hack it up to run heat to the defroster (I have no other heat provisions than the BN4) I may just get creative with it.