Any attempts to put a Scat 101.6 in a type 3

[adjunog]

motor got sold before I can get my hands on it... Now I'm getting away from the 100s bore b/c of its low life mileage. Hum WBX? man this is addicting. How much heavier is WBX from stock T3?

[Piledriver]

Bummer, but sometimes things work out for the best in the long run...

There are several viable motor setups for a T3, the engine compartment isn't tall, but wide and long it is.

A late suby 6 might even fit

[adjunog]

I just saw a EFI T4 case DTM upright for sale in this forum. I wonder if its still for sale. He spent $9k and asking $7k. Lots of Goodies.

[Piledriver]

I just saw a EFI T4 case DTM upright for sale in this forum. I wonder if its still for sale. He spent $9k and asking $7k. Lots of Goodies.

Nice setup, might work in a fasty as you see it.

Buyers market right now with the economy as it is..

[adjunog]

Factor:5k miles. How much more would this engine last before jug work? This would be a great recovery from the other sale.

[Piledriver]

Factor:5k miles. How much more would this engine last before jug work? This would be a great recovery from the other sale.

A T4 is not a T1... at 5K miles it's probably just broken in, and should go ~50K miles before freshen up, which may just mean fresh crank seals and ex valves, and may go 100K+ if treated right. (and just need rings and heads done even then... The bottom ends are very solid)

2270 can be near or even better than stock life, depending on how radical/usage/care/quality of parts.

Adding boost all bets are off.

I bet that $1500 914 Tangerine header could be used easily in a late T3 (w/no frame horns) I'd be all over it if I had any cash and could talk him down some.

Assuming we're looking at the same ad...
(the one I was looking at is $5K for the 2270 motor in shortblock form (with rest there, boxed) and a 1K ceramic coated Tangerine for a 914... Smokin deal zero mile, some assy required, good parts all)

IMHO it would make for a ~perfect T3 motor, the DTM V2 might work in a fasty or notch, stock cooling only on a square (and preferably plenum/EFI) for obvious packaging reasons...

Stuffing IDFs/Dells in a square is possible... but not easy or ideal. Requires custom really really short manifold and air cleaners etc.

You should probably do some heavy reading over on the Type4um... If you read fast you should be able to read through it in a few years
The now archived aircooled tech forum also is a treasure trove of good T4 info.

[adjunog]

the 2270 ad said the EFI was optional but I rather have the EFI to save gas. Would an upright have heat issues in a T3? or fresh air issues? I think the fresh air for intake would only be a problem.

[Piledriver]

the 2270 ad said the EFI was optional but I rather have the EFI to save gas. Would an upright have heat issues in a T3? or fresh air issues? I think the fresh air for intake would only be a problem.

The upright may have "not fit" issues on a notch/fasty... Check with Jake perhaps?
(I don't have a DTM and I have a squareback, so I can only guess)

You lose the rear "trunk" either way, but you have another one up front, and you will probably have to cut some sheetmetal to clear the tall Weber mainifolds etc.

On a square... T4 Stock cooling or flat 4/6 water cooled swap simply due to it being a station wagon.

EFI is always optional. IDFs can become TBs easily...

Jetted right, fuel economy should not be an issue either way.

The DTM and a properly sealed engine compartments would be a win cooling wise, esp over ~4600 RPM.
(The stock T4 cooling setup stalls at ~4600/1700 CFM, but moves more air vs a T1 fan below that. The DTM will have better cooling uniformity at any RPM)

[adjunog]

Also a stock T3 doesn't even compare to DTM. Some how I might incorporate the vacuum vents to draw out warm air from the T4.

[Roverjosh]

Sorry to ask the "dumb" question, but I am trying to learn the finer points of engine selection. So here it is: what does "DTM" mean?

[Piledriver]

Sorry to ask the "dumb" question, but I am trying to learn the finer points of engine selection. So here it is: what does "DTM" mean?

DTM= "Down the Middle" fan housing for the type4 original design by the late great Joe Lociero of Oregon.
design bought and further developed by Jake Raby in Georgia. http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/

The point of the design was uniform cooling.

Here's "The Fix'"s motor with a DTM V1 (and slowtwitches' totally rockin linkage setup) on it:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... &start=116

A DTM V2 has no oil cooler setup, for apps where it won't fit or is simply not needed.
(requires an external cooler)

There is a T1 version as well.

[Roverjosh]

Ok, so DTM is an upright cooling tin for T4' applications. That won't work for me. I'm in a Type 3 and I want to keep my trunk.

Thanks for the education.

Cheers.

[adjunog]

DTM= "Down the Middle" fan housing for the type4 original design by the late great Joe Lociero of Oregon.
design bought and further developed by Jake Raby in Georgia. http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/
The point of the design was uniform cooling.
Here's "The Fix'"s motor with a DTM V1 (and slowtwitches' totally rockin linkage setup) on it:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... &start=116
A DTM V2 has no oil cooler setup, for apps where it won't fit or is simply not needed.
(requires an external cooler)
There is a T1 version as well.

Where is the oil in/out coming from? I can't tell from the pic.
I saw one mod that was threaded somewhere. Does it have adequate pressure to pass through hose and cooler?

[Piledriver]

DTM= "Down the Middle" fan housing for the type4 original design by the late great Joe Lociero of Oregon.
design bought and further developed by Jake Raby in Georgia. http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/
The point of the design was uniform cooling.
Here's "The Fix'"s motor with a DTM V1 (and slowtwitches' totally rockin linkage setup) on it:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... &start=116
A DTM V2 has no oil cooler setup, for apps where it won't fit or is simply not needed.
(requires an external cooler)
There is a T1 version as well.

Where is the oil in/out coming from? I can't tell from the pic.
I saw one mod that was threaded somewhere. Does it have adequate pressure to pass through hose and cooler?

You can take it off the std oil cooler mount, which keeps the stock oil pressure based "thermostat" or run it off the oil pump (or off a block-off at the filter mount location)and back to the block via a real oil thermostat. The latter setup is preferred as it omits about a half dozen sharp 90 degree turns and tiny passages in the block.

Either setup works for most definitions of "works".