Documenting my conversion to EFI/distributorless

[andy198712]

Loads of clearance in the engine bay!! Looking great

[Jadewombat]

Looking good. Try plugging the ends, filling it up with water, and check for leaks.

[frank1380]

Looking good. Try plugging the ends, filling it up with water, and check for leaks.

That is on my list of things to do.

I'll try to fabricate the rail hold-downs this weekend. I was going to make an I (big i) shape. Weld the lower part between the injector bungs. Drill the upper part and tap the fuel rail for screws to hold it all in place. There's plenty of metal "meat" below where the fuel will actually be to do this.

[frank1380]

Leak check failed on one of the bungs. Not a horrible leak but present all the same. I'll hit it again tomorrow or this weekend. It was on the inside between the bungs I think on the 3/4 side. It's difficult to get the torch in there and I don't have the fancy cups that permit the use of a long tungsten stickout. I had to build up a lot of material where I could reach and it was insufficient. I'm glad I checked, thanks for the reminder.


Fuel system planning is what I'm doing in the meantime. I think I'm going with the CB return T, Walbro inline pump, Corvette filter/regulator, 3/8" steel hardline back to the motor with some flexible pressure rated stuff at the end to connect to the rails.

[elrockk]

just my2 cents,you may want to shorten the legnth of the tubes going into end castings as it will kill the cone/fan spray pattern of the injectors. while it will work like that you pretty much want the injector to sneeze right on the intake valve for the best resuts

[frank1380]

Ordered trigger wheel from Mario Thursday and had it in my hands Saturday afternoon.

Sad 019 creeping into the frame. Poor guy feels left out I'm sure.


Welded a bracket between the injector bungs. I'm going to drill a hole in center and run a length of all-thread rod through it. I'll drill and tap the bottom of the fuel rail and thread the rod into it and put a nut on the bottom of my bracket. This was the best idea I could come up with so that I'm not stuck using this injector size.


Made a blockoff plate for the fuel pump.

I'm hoping to lathe my pulley next weekend. I'll probably buy the fuel system this week too.

[andy198712]

sweet! i love making my own parts

[frank1380]

sweet! i love making my own parts

The end result looked like I had a dog chew it out of aluminum plate but I'm going to use it anyway. Regarding the fuel pump hole blocking plate.

[66brm]

Best thing about aluminium, run it on a linishing belt for a couple of seconds and it'll look new/billet

[frank1380]

I went to the junkyard Saturday but like an idiot I didn't take any measurements for the crank sensor. I bought one from a 2002 Trailblazer which is too long. I'll actually take a measurement tonight and try again tomorrow. I should know better, but will a Hall effect switch work or do I need a variable reluctance one? I'm planning on using the MS1 with the 3.0 board.

The fuel pump was delivered last week. Hopefully I'll get the rest of the plumbing fittings, tube, and hoses figured out and ordered this week.


Walbro inline overkill

[frank1380]

I'm bad at welding.


I'm going to add a nut to the top of the bracket. The single one below started to bend it so I'm going to make a bracket sandwich with nuts as bread.

Crank sensor, coolant sensor, and intake air temperature sensor are on their way.

[frank1380]

Crank sensor mockup. I have an inexpensive aluminum pulley to check the sensor distance. It's easy to slide on and off of the crankshaft compared to my Gene Berg heavy steel one.

The sensor itself is from a 2000 Mazda 626 6-cylinder.

[gtmdriver]

Very similar to my set up.





The throttle body is from a BMW R1200R motorcycle.

[frank1380]

That looks great. I don't know why I didn't think to do my cross tube like that. I had to overcomplicate it with the box at the bottom. I did 1-5/8" cross tubes which is really close to the same OD as the stock dual port manifolds. They were roughly 40mm if I remember my measurement.

[Piledriver]

I'm bad at welding.

What did you weld, and what with?
I hope that's JB Weld. (really)

Aluminum to mild steel doesn't really... weld, and if you still managed to get it to stick, most steel welding filler will jack up the wheel pattern. Also highly unlikely to stay stuck.

Better to drill/tap and install some small non-magnetic SS button head screws... maybe 6.
If cant get non-magnetic SS put the screws in an inch or so in from the edge if possible.

...will a Hall effect switch work or do I need a variable reluctance one? I'm planning on using the MS1 with the 3.0 board.

You can use a Hall or VR sensor as you are not using EDIS.

Most prefer Hall sensors as they...:
1) Produce a consistent signal
2) Aren't remotely as noise sensitive, and
3) Can be troubleshot via a voltmeter simply turning the engine my hand.