Holley Red intermittent problems

[tattooed_pariah]

Is the LED for monitoring pump power connect right to pump terminals... You description of "new" wiring was not quite clear....

Dale

Ok, i'll walk through how it WAS wired and how it now IS wired..

Before:

back in 2002 or 2003, I had a shop install a factory harness after I botched installing a Watson's Streetworks harness.. They didn't follow the manuals for fuse placement, so I'm not sure what fuse location powers what, but I had hooked up the power lead for the toggle switch to a position which was ALWAYS hot (there's a 25amp fuse between the VW fuse panel and the toggle switch as well), and had one small red wire and one thick red wire already on it.. The other end of the toggle switch goes to the relay, then the relay ran to directly to the pump. So basically when the toggle is off, the relay had no power, and so the pump had no power..

Now:

I took the powered lead from the relay (the wire that was going to the pump, that only has power when the toggle switch is turned on..) and connected it to one of these: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... =CT2032231

Remember I'm using the 3M crimp on connectors with the plasti cover so I can't use a piggy back terminal.. :/ I used a "Y-split" style one instead.. The relay connects to the single side of the "Y", one leg goes directly to the pump, the other leg goes to this fuseblock: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062258

I got ahead of myself, and didn't sketch out my design before cutting, crimping and heatshrinking.. what I SHOULD have done was created a wire/connector piece that would daisy chain all four fuses so they would be powered.. what I did instead was connected the other end of the Y from the relay to one fuse, then smack my forehead, make a tiny wire, put another Y splitter on that first fuse and connect the second fuse to the first.. (all four of these fuses are 20amp because that's the max that the fuse block supports)

The red LEDs are on one fuse and I have a four hole power point that's connected to the second fuse..

I will take a picture when I get home from work today, but for now you'll just have to deal with my shitty paint brush skills

[tattooed_pariah]

They are super simple to take apart and inspect. A 5/16 (maybe 1/4) nut driver is all you need to remove the botton plate.

yeah, it looks really easy.. what isn't easy is getting the pump back out of the car without a huge mess.. try as I might, I couldn't find a -6AN petcock for less than like $45 sowhen I disconnect the pump, I'm gonna start dropping gas everywhere until I can plug the line..



as you can see, the pump is directly connected to the regulator, so they have to come out together.. :/

[tattooed_pariah]

I didn't realize my signature wasn't turned on.. there are more pictures available by checking the build thread on Volksrods (link in signature..)

[Steve Arndt]

A -6AN cap or plug (JIC cheaper) are useful. Pull the line, plug with your thumb, then quickly thread the cap onto the line from the tank.

It would be better to position the regulator closer to your engine vs up at the front of the car. That way you have higher system pressure through the long line.

[tattooed_pariah]

A -6AN cap or plug (JIC cheaper) are useful. Pull the line, plug with your thumb, then quickly thread the cap onto the line from the tank.

It would be better to position the regulator closer to your engine vs up at the front of the car. That way you have higher system pressure through the long line.

I have a -6AN t-fitting that I've used as a plug.. I jammed the T part with a piece of blue shop rag and wrapped it with electrical tape..

good to know about the regulator.. Eventually I have to replumb the engine compartment because I initially cut and routed it all when I was using a doghouse shroud with hex bar linkage.. now I'm using a non-doghouse 36hp shroud and the Sync Link cables.. to I have a bit of extra fuel hose in the engine compartment that I'd like to clean up but I don't want to pull the engine right now since I'm moving in two months..

[Piledriver]

True, they do come apart easy.
The rebuild kit also includes a new stator and vanes--- These are mostly what can rust up.

It would probably be a Really Good Idea if you keep that pump to put some MMM (marvel mystery oil) in the fuel before it sits for long periods, perhaps run a bottle or two of drygas to make sure no water is in the system as well.

[tattooed_pariah]

True, they do come apart easy.
The rebuild kit also includes a new stator and vanes--- These are mostly what can rust up.

It would probably be a Really Good Idea if you keep that pump to put some MMM (marvel mystery oil) in the fuel before it sits for long periods, perhaps run a bottle or two of drygas to make sure no water is in the system as well.

yeah, after it sat for a couple of months, I dumped some seafoam into the tank, grabbed hold of the roof rack, and shook it back and forth for about a minute before starting it up..

With deployments, I've become good friends with Stabil and Seafoam

[tattooed_pariah]

Hard to tell what's what here.. I was more just throwing poop together than worried about it being "pretty"

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b379/ ... rw1xlf.jpg

I've forgotten how to adjust the width and STF won't let me post an image more than 800 and won't resize it automatically...

[Dale M.]

I've forgotten how to adjust the width and STF won't let me post an image more than 800 and won't resize it automatically...

Try getting IRFANVIEW and do you own image resizing/editing...

http://www.irfanview.com

Or find a "online" image resize site....

Dale

[tattooed_pariah]

haha i've been using Iview32 since the mid 90's when it was just an image viewer and didn't come with multimedia capabilities..

and I wasn't trying to bad mouth STF, was just pointing out why i was posting a link and not an image..

[Dale M.]

haha i've been using Iview32 since the mid 90's when it was just an image viewer and didn't come with multimedia capabilities..

and I wasn't trying to bad mouth STF, was just pointing out why i was posting a link and not an image..

Realize that..... Its becoming common problem with forums today... The "new" cameras take pictures so large (megapixels) and most forums limit storage size to save space in storage (server) .... Most new "virtual' people don't seem to realize the hiccups the new technology causes... Some seem the think the forum or storage media is the problem when its actually their camera and the inability to manage their pictures properly... Any picture that is larger then 640x480 pixels and more than about 5k pixels is useless as the resolution of the internet probably does not do them justice...

Just saying for those who may be uninformed.... No slur or rank comment intended...

Dale

[tattooed_pariah]

on a plus note.. the pump hasn't died on me again yet.. been trying to drive it more and more to make sure it's truly road ready..

[tattooed_pariah]

Just an update.. I've driven it probably about 100 miles total since last post with no problems. I have NOT yet tried driving it to work again, but intend on trying again maybe next week.. So that will be the test for if it is a cold weather problem..

I have installed some of those stupid led strips under the dash though(Volksrodder's say the inside of my car looks like a cheap brothel now (red LEDs..)). They are on the same circuit (but different fuse) as the pump, so when I toggle the pump on, the lights come on too.. If the pump dies and lights are on, bad pump, everything dies, bad circuit..