36-1 Trigger Wheel for upright converted Type 4

shambly · Post by **shambly** » Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:24 am

I've had a batch of basic 5mm laser-cut trigger wheels made to compliment the CNC machined ones I offered previously. So I can now offer two options:

bracket + VR sensor + basic wheel for $95 shipped to the USA (tracked and insured). £64 shipped within UK
bracket + VR sensor + deluxe wheel for $135 shipped to the USa (tracked and insured). £94 shipped with UK

Here is one fitted to my DTM equipped engine (pulley tin removed for clarity)

More details here, but please don't use the site to order from outside the UK. Send me a PM or email instead

http://www.hamblyindustries.co.uk/shop/i701

Thanks,

Simon

UKLuke72 · Post by **UKLuke72** » Fri Apr 12, 2013 10:50 am

Hey Shambly, can you give me the dimensions of that VR you're using? I'd like to use my Honeywell HE sensor on your trigger wheel

Also, have you got a pick of the TW bolted onto a T1 pulley?

Thanks

shambly · Post by **shambly** » Fri Apr 12, 2013 12:37 pm

The sensor tip is contained within a 37mm long cylinder of 14mm diamete, mounted on a base. The fixing tab for the base is 15mm offset from the centre of the cylinder, with an 8mm hole. Can send a basic cad model of it if it is any use to you.

The trigger wheel is designed to mount onto a type IV flange, not a T1 pulley. A conversion pulley mounts on the flange infront of the trigger wheel.

Simon

Redline Weber · Post by **Redline Weber** » Sat Apr 13, 2013 5:37 am

Just a quick question :

Would it be possible to move, change the Gap of the crank sensor with the pressure of your hand ?

Lance

UKLuke72 · Post by **UKLuke72** » Sat Apr 13, 2013 8:08 am

Do you make said conversion pulley?

shambly · Post by **shambly** » Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:44 am

UKLuke72 wrote:Do you make said conversion pulley?

No, I don't.

shambly · Post by **shambly** » Sun Apr 14, 2013 5:00 am

Redline Weber wrote:Just a quick question :

Would it be possible to move, change the Gap of the crank sensor with the pressure of your hand ?

Lance

Lance,

Yes, The top mounting bolt can be loosened, adjusted, and tightened with the pulley in place. That alters the gap in that plane (in/out).

The sensor-to-backet mounting slot gives you (non-independant) adjustment in both the in/out and front/back planes, and should be setup first for the correct front/back alignment.

What I did when I installed on my own car is bolt on just the pulley, align the sensor and bracket, then bolted on the pulley as well.

The square cut (basic) trigger wheel diameter value was determined so that the bracket position is unchanged between the two trigger wheel designs, and both retain the same amount of adjustment capability with the same sensor bracket. I used 3D printing to get the designs right before committing to getting them made in metal.

Simon

WKID 356 · Post by **WKID 356** » Fri Feb 28, 2014 7:03 pm

I have a CB Magnaspark setup with sensor. I just need the type 4
crank trigger wheel and bracket How much please with shipping? Ken, [email protected]

Redline Weber · Post by **Redline Weber** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:20 am

Your answer was NOT my point.

MY type IV bracket is 1" thick AND not able to change alignment with elongated bolt holes.

Thus my observation suggests that "when tight" your bracket FLEX by force of hand.

Lance

dorkie · Post by **dorkie** » Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:15 pm

Redline Weber wrote:Your answer was NOT my point.

MY type IV bracket is 1" thick AND not able to change alignment with elongated bolt holes.

Thus my observation suggests that "when tight" your bracket FLEX by force of hand.

Lance

Who leans on this while the engine is running? Those teeth on the trigger wheel look like they would make a nasty wound. Again, who would lean on this bracket at any time? I am thinking no one so your "point" is moot.

Paul H · Post by **Paul H** » Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:54 am

dorkie wrote:
Redline Weber wrote:Your answer was NOT my point.

MY type IV bracket is 1" thick AND not able to change alignment with elongated bolt holes.

Thus my observation suggests that "when tight" your bracket FLEX by force of hand.

Lance

Who leans on this while the engine is running? Those teeth on the trigger wheel look like they would make a nasty wound. Again, who would lean on this bracket at any time? I am thinking no one so your "point" is moot.

There's plenty of "moot points" going around on forums born from lack of real information me thinks

Redline Weber · Post by **Redline Weber** » Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:45 am

OK, you BOTH FAILED the TEST.
Your response is TOO quickly taken, for myself correctly answered by others BEFORE you both were born. (1982)

NOW for the facts : YOUR TW bracket WILL just fall off the engine caused from normal engine vibration.
You may also call Greg, Ron at FAT as their first bracket was MUCH stranger yet flexed enough to CAUSE "miss-fire" on their bench dyno at 6600 RPM. (Wide Open Baja Type-IV)

I am the inventor of this type of shaft decoding, to share standards of the required quality is NORMAL for NIST !

AGAIN, "if the sensor gap can be changed with hand force the GAP will ALSO change durning normal engine vibration."

Lance

dorkie · Post by **dorkie** » Sun Mar 02, 2014 10:22 am

things that do not bend, will break.

...I wish I was born after 1982.

Clonebug · Post by **Clonebug** » Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:52 pm

dorkie wrote:
...I wish I was born after 1982.

Don't we all.......

kafer.chris · Post by **kafer.chris** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 11:37 am

how is the OWL Throttle Linkage for Jenvey TF Throttle Bodies coming on ..
will it fit my 45 drla's..

cheers

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