Clutch Cable Removal

vwduud · Post by **vwduud** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:39 pm

Ok, read the manuals I have (3 different ones), and then peeked into the tunnel, under the inspection cover next to the pedal cluster. The manuals give the impression that all can be handle without removing the pedal cluster. From inspection, the cable end, where it connects to the arm, is almost out of the tunnel (or right at the edge of it), making it a pretty decent reach from the tunnel inspection hole. Can I get some tips on the easiest way to remove and replace this? Thanks - Jim

Post by **Piledriver** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:48 pm

The pedal cluster may not need to come out, but the floor plate might.... The angled one the pedals go thru... It's only held in with 2 or 3 small bolts, easy.

At that point you just snap the clevis pin clip up/down as applicable, and pull it out of the cluster, the cable falls on the floor of the tunnel...

Rouser914S · Post by **Rouser914S** » Thu Mar 06, 2003 1:51 pm

Make absolutely sure you remove ALL the hardware (clevis, nut) OFF the treaded end of the cable leading to the pedal cluster.

Leave that nut on, try pulling the cable out the rear, and it WILL get stuck in the clutch tube. Than you'll be in a serious world 'o hurt!

During installation, when you tread the new cable into the clutch tube, be careful not to get criss-crossed on the throttle cable, otherwise your engine will race the first time you stomp the clutch pedal.

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Rouser!

Loan Dog · Post by **Loan Dog** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 7:09 pm

If you really want to make life easier, remove the drivers seat. Slide it all the way forward and simply remove the four 10mm bolts from the floor. It will be alot easier to get at the clevis pin end of the clutch cable with the seat out of the way. Once the wooden floor board is removed, you do not have to remove the whole pedal cluster to change the cable.
Don

Dave_Darling · Post by **Dave_Darling** » Wed Mar 26, 2003 8:59 am

You can also slide it off the rails. Slide it all the way forward, then reach under the other rail and push up on the locking tab. (It'll probably be greasy and dirty, gloves are a good idea.) Slide the seat the rest of the way off.

It's easier, but does still leave the seat rails attached to the floor.

--DD

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1974 VW-Porsche 914 2.0 (Type IV powered!)

Pelican Parts' 914 Tech Geek http://www.pelicanparts.com

vwduud · Post by **vwduud** » Wed Mar 26, 2003 12:01 pm

Thanks guys. I got it done. I did have to pull a cable out of a donor car. It had the seats out, and it did make the process much easier. On my car, I squeezed in between the seat and the steering wheel (not fun). This was also to replace the small cable bushing, located in the lever. The plastic one was, of course, worn through. Real fun, doing this, with the pedal cluster still mounted in the car. Clutch works great now.

johnrogers · Post by **johnrogers** » Thu Mar 27, 2003 11:09 pm

Since I am getting older, I have found I do like laying on my belly over the roll cage door bars, etc when I have to replace a clutch or throttle cable, so I use several inflatable pillows (approx 2ft sq) that I keep handy and inflate to lay on. Much more comfortable when trying to stick my head in the pedal box area.

Barber dave · Post by **Barber dave** » Fri Mar 28, 2003 5:05 am

JOHN:
OLDER= WISER

DAVE

capitolatim · Post by **capitolatim** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 6:18 pm

I discovered today that the clip has two different diameter holes, lot's of grunting before noticing.

Certainly a hard reach for a 70 year old guy,

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