2533cc Build Questions!

[wertygrog]

Hi all,

I have a 914 and I just bought a complete 2533cc long block, minus cam, oil pump, and rod bearings! This engine came completely disassembled, and supposedly had only 200 miles on it. It was taken apart because it was low on power, and it was discovered that the previous owner had run a stock cam in it. Here are the main parts:

stock rebuilt 2.0L heads w/ SS valves and dual springs
76mm C-W crank w/ chevy journals
5.5" clearanced scat H-beam rods w/ 22mm pin size
103mm JE pistons/rings w/ valve relief
103mm steel jugs
CB case
Main and cam bearings


My plan is to build this up over the next few months as a street performance engine (mostly low revs) with an occasional AX, using whatever cam Jake recommends once I have my whole configuration nailed down.

I’ve read a ton about how inadequate the ‘cast iron’ jugs are (not arguing with you, but I can’t afford nickies and I don’t want to go the safe route of 96’s), so I plan on spending a lot of time and money on a great cooling system. Observing the stock oil cooling system and reading posts on this forum, I have a plan for the oiling system, let me know your thoughts- go full-flow pump w/ intermediate plate and cover, with a line going to an external filter, then to a thermostat, then to two external oil coolers, then back to the case behind where the stock oil cooler would go (along with the bypass line from the thermostat). I want to delete the stock oil cooler, because it seems to me to be more productive to install a block-off plate allowing all the cooling air to go over the cylinders. Does this overall plan of action sounds feasible? I wish I could afford a DTM setup but that’s not in the cards for now.

Additionally, I have this:

40IDF webers
2.0L SSI HE’s
MSD 6A box
Mallory Unilite (centrifugal only)

I plan on upgrading to 44IDF’s. I know I’ll probably need a much larger exhaust system. Okay, here are some questions I have for you guys!

-When performing the carbon paper test to check for collapsed saddles, should the bearings be installed?
-Would a 26mm or 30mm oil pump be preferred?
-What would be a good target static CR to aim for (pump gas), or is this completely unknown until I figure everything else out?
-Should I send my 200-mile 2.0L heads to Len for bigger valves and flow-matching? Methinks yes.
-Are there any exhaust options more affordable than the tangerine setup, and still give me decent performance?

Any comments are appreciated! I’ve already learned a lot from reading these forums!

-Brent D

[Type 4 Unleashed]

Hi Brent

And also, welcome to STF. Where are you located ?

And you can't believe everything Class 11 streeter says, I haven't blown any engines that I recall...

stock rebuilt 2.0L heads w/ SS valves and dual springs
76mm C-W crank w/ chevy journals
5.5" clearanced scat H-beam rods w/ 22mm pin size
103mm JE pistons/rings w/ valve relief
103mm steel jugs
CB case
Main and cam bearings

What I would suggest on your main parts in your list:

1st the heads, should be gone thru properly, they more than likely just had a basic rebuild, which was probally just the valve seats cut and the valves faced, even the stem tips should of been faced and the heads surfaced, and if they had stock springs they went to dbl springs, and if they all ready had dbl springs they didn't replace them, but the stock retainers have to go. It would be a good idea to replace the seats, and definately the exh guides even if they were replaced before ?, and go with 8mm stemmed SS valves instead of the 9mm sodium filled exh that are currently in the heads. I would also have the 14mm spark plug holes welded, and go either 12mm or even 10mm plugs, which gives more meat around the plugs and helps prevent cracking around the plugs, which the 2.0 ltr heads are known for.

2nd your crank, I would check the bearings, the rear thrust and the center main to see their condition after 200 miles, checking the main behind the gears, would require the gears pulled, and that would depend on you for 4 reasons, 1 depending on how the other bearings look ? 2nd if you want it apart to properly clean it for re-assembly, 3rd to have the balanced checked and 4th if the bearings look good, the crank looks good and you feel the balance was done sufficiently the 1st time ? The rods will have to come off to check those bearings, and the balance could also be checked on those. You can assume the balance was done correctly or not, I would rather know it was correct than not.

3rd the rods, check the bearings, and pin fit, and even the balance.

4th the pistons & rings, JE are a good piston, but the balance should be checked, you should get new pin locs, the rings end gap should be checked in each cyl. And you should buy one of the cheap ring remover & installer from your local FLAPS, for ease of R & R the rings with out over stressing the rings or scratching up the pistons.

5th 103mm cast iron cyl's, should be check for taper or out of round & piston to cyl clearance. And to try and determine who's cyl's they are, which I can hardly see in your pic, but they look like they may have a black heat dispersant, which means they are more than likely AA cyl's, and someone posted here on STF that FAT Performance had found that Nitriding the cyl's were needed.

6th the CB Case, first there is no CB Type lV case, they may have done some work to the stock Type lV case, but there are no aftermarket Type lV case's, except for the Pauter case, which isn't really a Type lV case, it's more a Block and is no where near in design to a Type lV case.

I've already talked about the main bearings, and cam beartings are around $20 for Dbl thrust.

Additionally, I have this:

40IDF webers
2.0L SSI HE’s
MSD 6A box
Mallory Unilite (centrifugal only)

I plan on upgrading to 44IDF’s. I know I’ll probably need a much larger exhaust system. Okay, here are some questions I have for you guys!

-When performing the carbon paper test to check for collapsed saddles, should the bearings be installed?
-Would a 26mm or 30mm oil pump be preferred?
-What would be a good target static CR to aim for (pump gas), or is this completely unknown until I figure everything else out?
-Should I send my 200-mile 2.0L heads to Len for bigger valves and flow-matching? Methinks yes.
-Are there any exhaust options more affordable than the tangerine setup, and still give me decent performance?

Any comments are appreciated! I’ve already learned a lot from reading these forums!

-Brent D

If you gonna upgrade the carbs, then go to 48 idf's, a 2.5 ltr will need them.

The carbon paper test, I would do it with and with out bearings for a comparison.

I like the 38mm Revmaster pump, they can come machined for full flow & with a full fllow cover.

A good static depending on the cam would be 8.5 to 9.0 to 1

44 x 38 would be a good valve set up.

The European Racing Header, is a good upgrade from the stock system, and theTangerine is an upgrade from that.