Hi Guys,
I am trying to replace my shifter bushings on my 76 2.0L side shifter, and I'm having a little trouble with the coupler bushings. What I'm calling a coupler looks like a u joint behind the firewall, with a cast part over the shifter rod with a pin through the end of the rod secured to the cast part with two opposing bushings. I just can't figure out how to get the new bushings in (the old ones disintegrated on the 405...) It looks as if they need to go on the inside of the cast part, but I’m not sure how to get the casting off. Must I remove the pin from the rod? If so, do I have to drive it out, cut it out??? I've read the "pelican brief" on shifter bushings, and it doesn't seem to say much about this one. I've also searched the forums with limited luck - its probably right in front of me. Can anyone point me toward a post or in the right direction?
76 914 shifter bushing
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Type 4 Unleashed
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What you are referring to is the shift coupler, and yes the pin has to be driven out, or could be possibly pressed out if you have access to one, in order to put the bushings in.
But you have to be very careful not to damage the coupler (I believe it's aluminum), taking it apart but especially when putting it back together.
Did you get plastic or brass replacement bushings ? Not that it really matters, except brass ones are easier to assemble and would last probably at least 60 years.
The easiest way to remove the pin is to use a piece of pipe with the I.D. large enough for the pin to go into but with an O.D. a little smaller than the coupler hole for the bushing and it has to be long enough for the pin to go into, when you either use some kind of punch to drive or press it out.
Assembly is opposite of removal, but make sure you mark coupler in conjunction with the rod to make sure assembly is not 180* off.
The fun part is supporting the shift rod while your trying to get the pin in & out of the coupler. You don't want to put the rod in a vice, but could use a vice to hold the pipe.
This should give you an idea how to put the bushings in without to much trouble.
But you have to be very careful not to damage the coupler (I believe it's aluminum), taking it apart but especially when putting it back together.
Did you get plastic or brass replacement bushings ? Not that it really matters, except brass ones are easier to assemble and would last probably at least 60 years.
The easiest way to remove the pin is to use a piece of pipe with the I.D. large enough for the pin to go into but with an O.D. a little smaller than the coupler hole for the bushing and it has to be long enough for the pin to go into, when you either use some kind of punch to drive or press it out.
Assembly is opposite of removal, but make sure you mark coupler in conjunction with the rod to make sure assembly is not 180* off.
The fun part is supporting the shift rod while your trying to get the pin in & out of the coupler. You don't want to put the rod in a vice, but could use a vice to hold the pipe.
This should give you an idea how to put the bushings in without to much trouble.
Richard
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
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914woman
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Thanks Richard. That's very helpful. I tried a couple things before reading this and I gotta tell ya, that pin has been comfortable there for 30 years, and has no absolutely desire to come out. I’ve had no success other than to verify that yes, that rod is aluminum (or some other material that wants to easily bend with a vice!) But you’ve given me a good idea, unfortunately, the car’s got to go back on the road, so a couple of wooden dowels hollowed out to fit over the pin but inside the casting are going to have to resume their duties as makeshift bushings until I can find / fabricate something.
I got the plastic ones (didn’t know brass was available.)
Question: anyone know where I can get a boot that goes over that shift coupler and a housing that covers the rear where that rod goes into the tranny? I just hate to drop $80 from Pelican (nothing against them) on a rubber and plastic piece.
I got the plastic ones (didn’t know brass was available.)
Question: anyone know where I can get a boot that goes over that shift coupler and a housing that covers the rear where that rod goes into the tranny? I just hate to drop $80 from Pelican (nothing against them) on a rubber and plastic piece.
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Type 4 Unleashed
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I asked on Club NARP about a Boot & Cover. I'll see if anyone responds ?
Richard
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
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Type 4 Unleashed
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A friend offered me a boot & cover, he say's there not the greatest but useable, and their free...Type 4 Unleashed wrote:I asked on Club NARP about a Boot & Cover. I'll see if anyone responds ?
Richard
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
(gotta get my hotmail fixed, this isn't sending me reply msgs anymore...)-
Type 4 Unleashed
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PM Sent
Richard
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”