won't start

[plost]

Can't get my 1.7 started. Set valves put carb kits in IDF44, have gas to carbs and have spark. What the heck am i missing.
Tom

[Twystd1]

Just because you have spark and fuel... Doesn't make an engine run.

Check to make sure your static timing is reasonably correct.

Make sure your plug wires are in the correct position.

And unless you have 1.7 screamer. Those 44s are WAY to big for your engine.

Check to see if you have 32 venturis. If not. You will probably never make it run correctly.

There are several threads on this same dilemma at www.914world.com

You may want to go over there and search 1.7 + 44s.

You may also want to post this same question in the Type 4rum at this website.
There a bunch of Type IV guys that hang out in that forum that seriously know their stuff.

Lemme take a wild guess. You also have a 009 distributor... Correct?

Cheers,
Clayton

[plost]

Thanks for the reply. Yes I have a 009 distributor with pertronix, no points. IT had a mallory from SKAT but i changed it to put the pertronix in, had that in for three years.I do have a hopped up engine so the guy told me. He could not remember precisely but larger pistons and the heads are not stock. The car was running fine but steadily got harder to start until it wouldn't. The compression is min 120 max 130. I checked the static timing with an ohm meter, turned distributor clockwise (neg battery and neg coil) until it registered voltage then dropped it, then counter clockwise until voltage registered again so I think I'm close. Spark plug wires are 1-4-3-2. checked em 50 times. Set the valves too TDC .006 This is getting very frustrating this car ran for 5 years no problem now nothing.

Just because you have spark and fuel... Doesn't make an engine run.

Check to make sure your static timing is reasonably correct.

Make sure your plug wires are in the correct position.

And unless you have 1.7 screamer. Those 44s are WAY to big for your engine.

Check to see if you have 32 venturis. If not. You will probably never make it run correctly.

There are several threads on this same dilemma at www.914world.com

You may want to go over there and search 1.7 + 44s.

You may also want to post this same question in the Type 4rum at this website.
There a bunch of Type IV guys that hang out in that forum that seriously know their stuff.

Lemme take a wild guess. You also have a 009 distributor... Correct?

Cheers,
Clayton

[plost]

Thanks for the reply. Yes I have a 009 distributor with pertronix, no points. I do have a hopped up engine so the guy told me. He could not remember precisely but larger pistons and the heads are not stock. The car was running fine but steadily got harder to start until it wouldn't. The compression is min 120 max 130. I checked the static timing with an ohm meter, turned distributor clockwise (neg battery and neg coil) until it registered voltage then dropped it, then counter clockwise until voltage registered again so I think I'm close. Spark plug wires are 1-4-3-2. checked em 50 times. Set the valves too TDC .006

Just because you have spark and fuel... Doesn't make an engine run.

Check to make sure your static timing is reasonably correct.

Make sure your plug wires are in the correct position.

And unless you have 1.7 screamer. Those 44s are WAY to big for your engine.

Check to see if you have 32 venturis. If not. You will probably never make it run correctly.

There are several threads on this same dilemma at www.914world.com

You may want to go over there and search 1.7 + 44s.

You may also want to post this same question in the Type 4rum at this website.
There a bunch of Type IV guys that hang out in that forum that seriously know their stuff.

Lemme take a wild guess. You also have a 009 distributor... Correct?

Cheers,
Clayton

[Piledriver]

I ran 44/36s for years on an otherwise ~ stock 1700 in a 914 and got >50MPG on several ~1K+ mile trips>40 typically, and jetted just so, it ran quite decent... 40s would likely work better, but that isn't the immediate problem.

(I ventually converted to CIS, avoiding the whole issue)

How long has the gas been in the tank?
What color /what's the spark look like?
(Fat and blue is desired)

Ditch the pertronix for the moment, Mallory is a MUCH better dist, even with points. Points tend to fail gracefully, and can be easily cleaned up to restore performance, or at least get you to the parts store.
The pertronix etc also tend to die as described, you end up with a weak spark that looks ~ OK in the open, but that won't fire under pressure.

A fresh set of plugs and fresh gas will help, I like NGK 1263s. (Triples, same as Bosch W7DTCs) old gas can coat your plugs with a clear varnish in a second, they can look fine but will not fire under pressure.

Fully charge your battery.

[plost]

I suspected the gas so i drained the tank and tried new gas. The spark may be suspect. Tomorrow I'll try new plugs and put the mallory back in. Do you know what the points gap in mallory might be. Could i be 180 out on the valve train or timing. They're only closed on the firing stroke TDC, that's where I set them. TDC mark (white) both valves closed on 1, that's where I set the clearance .006

[plost]

I suspected the gas so i drained the tank and tried new gas. The spark may be suspect. Tomorrow I'll try new plugs and put the mallory back in. Do you know what the points gap in mallory might be. Could i be 180 out on the valve train or timing. They're only closed on the firing stroke TDC, that's where I set them. TDC mark (white) both valves closed on 1, that's where I set the clearance .006

[Piledriver]

Do ask for the NGK 1263s, they are common, not expensive, and last ~ forever. They are nominally copper series, but have yttrium/nickel electrodes, and 3 side electrodes at that, and last ~as long as the Good $20 ea platinums, only cost "normal" prices. (Originally developed for/std equipment on the Ur Quattro IIRC, as it devoured "normal" plugs, and won't run for jack on the cheap platinums even today)

One last thought, I had a run of 3 bad (weak) coils awhile back, and two of them were "new" supposedly German coils.

Currently running an early Vanagon hall effect dual vac can dist, recurved, with the matching Vanagon coil and plug wires.

The spark output is impressive (Hurts), and has proven to be pretty bullet proof, as the whole setup is ~20 years+ old except for the cap, rotor and wires.

The Mallory should RUN set to ~.024", but I do not know what correct is off the top of my head.

IIRC Most coils need ~50 degrees of dwell, the coil doesn' care what brand of distributor feeds it...
The gap should be changed to whatever gets the dwell right.
(you are always technically adjusting the dwell, the gap is just how you change it)

[plost]

OK tried the mallory, dist. spark looks good, not firing still. I've noticed when I turn the key on the green oil light does not light up all the time, it does sometime but when i crank it goes out. The only time it has a hint of starting is when this is on (green light) Could this problem be in the steering column

[Piledriver]

OK, back to basics.
Fuel, spark, compression, timing.
(Have you checked compression?)

Assuming your dist drive is in wrong...
Lets just see if we can get it going quick.

Stick one plug wire in, and you should be able to rotate the Mallory 360 degrees is you so desire. (set the clamp so you can rotate it by hand, but not too easy)

Assuming you are getting gas to the carbs and not pouring gas past needles w/too much pressure or such, it should try to catch at some point.

After that start adding plug wires, #3 goes on across from #1, make sure #2 increases RPMS and plug #4 in across from that.

[plost]

Got the car runnin thanks for all the help
Tom