The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

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56SemaRag
Posts: 395
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 1:29 pm

The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

Post by 56SemaRag »

My other build is the Mendeola based '56 Vdubaru which is my first car that I have owned since the 80's and also under construction. Love the bug, but I have always wanted a pre-70 Karmann Ghia Convertible. I needed the right type of car. One that most restorers would walk away from and one that I wouldn't have any sense purist guilt of cutting it up instead of restoring it. I found a semi rare 69.5 KG Vert (Rear Glass & early small tail lights) and drug it home. it was in bad shape, missing lots of small parts, the top frame, very little metal left on the lowers and the usual Ghia curses. I needed a donor car and fell into this '71.

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Long story short, the more I looked at the donor...the more it became the primary build. The body seems very solid at this point so I cut up what I needed from the 69.5 and began this build.

My plans are to make this a "pre-1969" AWD street car with a turbo EZ30.I will graph in the later tail lights and close up the front corner markers. The engine will modeled after the Perrin Design because I have always wanted to build a Turbo flat six after doing several flat fours. The donor for my drivetrain will either be out of my 5 speed baja which I plan on doing a JDM 6 speed swap in the next year or if i come across a decent priced JDM 5 speed package. The 5 speed will end up with PPG gears as the only way to handle the power levels I plan on.

Here is where I am at now. Stripped the car, split the body and mounted it. Past couple of weeks I created a Type 1 rotisserie that allows the chassis to also roll under it when the carriage is level. Doing this because I am not working upside down like i did with the '56. I fabbed up a chain drive from a cheap HF cable winch with a worm gear that allows you to rotate the car and holds it steady when you stop, no need to pin it. I also made the pivots removable so the rotisserie can also collapse to become a body dolly when that day comes.

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First order of business is to open up the bottom of the tunnel and begin closing up all the open holes to the passenger compartment. I will asses whether I am going to keep the shift rod in the tunnel, run it externally in a shroud above the tunnel or go with a cable set up. Going relocate some tunnel tubes in the tunnel and remove others (defroster tubes, clutch tubes, fuel tubes, accelerator tube)

I will also be replacing the needed sheet metal on the body. Since this is a conversion thread. I'll keep the standard build stuff at a minimum unless you all want it in one thread and know that I am not slacking on the car :D . Figured I would call this one "The Huntress" because it'll be killing some "muscle cars" if it hits the streets. As always, any suggestions, motivation, comments or ideas are appreciated.
Last edited by 56SemaRag on Fri Mar 31, 2017 6:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
56' Semaphore Ragtop Subaru (Build)
Subaru Engine & Transmission
Mendeola Suspension

69' Karmann Convertible (Build)
Suby AWD Driveline


05 Suby Baja Turbo - Stage 2+
07 Legacy Spec B - Stage 2
15 Suby Forester XT
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Piledriver
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Re: The Huntress

Post by Piledriver »

A good how-to on repairs is always helpful and inspirational, if you have the time to document it.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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GS guy
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Re: The Huntress

Post by GS guy »

Sweet! Awesome shop to do the work in too!
I'm with Piledriver - feel free to show as much of the restoration as you want to document.

Is the Ghia getting the Mendeola suspension treatment too? What size rubber are you thinking of stuffing under it - with that level of "motor-vation" some fender stretching might be required. 8)
Jeff
56SemaRag
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Re: The Huntress

Post by 56SemaRag »

Thanks Gents.

I am going with the Mendy rear and might temp transplant the set I have on the '56 (standard width) to see if the narrower ones will fit. Figured I am going to widen the fenders all around since they will end up with the same size tire. Probably end up with the German look which I don't mind if it's done correctly. Gaining clearance inward doesn't look like a feasible option without a ton of work, so flared sides it will be. I really liked this approach, looks like it's the same color as mine :lol:
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For the front I am looking at a double A-arm of my own design. Probably use some standard A-arms, but the issue that I predict is the placement of the coilovers. Cantilever seems like the only way to get the coilovers out of the way of the axles. The upper portion of the knuckle will have to be modded to fit an upper pivot as well. Haven't found any McPherson Strut to ball joint adapters Since I have both R160 and R180 diffs on my drivers, going to take some dimensions and see if the R180 can fit.

Took off the front lower section of the tunnel today, should have enough off to begin the emptying of the contents tomorrow.
56' Semaphore Ragtop Subaru (Build)
Subaru Engine & Transmission
Mendeola Suspension

69' Karmann Convertible (Build)
Suby AWD Driveline


05 Suby Baja Turbo - Stage 2+
07 Legacy Spec B - Stage 2
15 Suby Forester XT
56SemaRag
Posts: 395
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 1:29 pm

Re: The Huntress

Post by 56SemaRag »

Started clearing the pan. Got rid of the remainder of the pan halves with the plasma cutter.
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Instead of drilling all the spot welds, I just used an air chisel since the pan metal is thinner gauge than the tunnel. Came off easy.
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Once the pans remnants were removed I began opening up the tunnel. Since the tunnel will be exposed. I'll be welding up the holes not needed. Left the back section together until I figure out how to box it in or shroud it. Probably going to run rectangular tubing down both side of the tunnel. Looking at making curved tubular cross braces that will connect to the rectangular tubing. Depending on the size of the rectangular I may run my fuel lines and charge cooler lines through it. Just theory at this point. Want to make it where I can remove the driveshaft. There was a decent amount of rust where the seat rails were next to the tunnel, so I cut out those sections.

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If I end of picking up some thick sheet metal, I'll repair the tunnel this week. If not I'll begin on the body. After measuring the drive shaft, differential and mid bearing support it looks like I will be able to retain the shift rod and emergency brake in the tunnel. 8)
56' Semaphore Ragtop Subaru (Build)
Subaru Engine & Transmission
Mendeola Suspension

69' Karmann Convertible (Build)
Suby AWD Driveline


05 Suby Baja Turbo - Stage 2+
07 Legacy Spec B - Stage 2
15 Suby Forester XT
56SemaRag
Posts: 395
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 1:29 pm

Re: The Huntress

Post by 56SemaRag »

Out of town for the past week, but I fit in what I could. The issue to wrestle with now is the front drivetrain. After weighing the options of differentials and knuckle & hubs, I am going to go with a 3.9 R180 rear (now front) differential and 05+ STi (bolt in) front knuckles. With a 3.9 Transaxle differential and a 1.0:1 center differential there shouldn't be an issue. They're on order so I can begin fitting the STi differential in a few weeks. I ordered new knuckles since they were about the same price as some of the local recyclers were asking.

The convertible top channel was in bad shape so I cut out the donor metal from the '69. 3 pieces come together to make this seam. The interior piece, exterior piece and cable channel all get spot welded. There is a small overlap of the exterior / cable channel and the interior metal. Since the interior had a small section to replace, I removed a larger portion of the exterior skin. From the donor I separated the channel from the exterior metal except for the patch I need. Should be a cleaner install when finished.

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56' Semaphore Ragtop Subaru (Build)
Subaru Engine & Transmission
Mendeola Suspension

69' Karmann Convertible (Build)
Suby AWD Driveline


05 Suby Baja Turbo - Stage 2+
07 Legacy Spec B - Stage 2
15 Suby Forester XT
56SemaRag
Posts: 395
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 1:29 pm

Re: The Huntress

Post by 56SemaRag »

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Looks like I am going to remove the upper part of the knuckle and manufacture an upper joint plate. Subys are front steer so I will be going with a mustang II style rack. The Mustang style racks have options in lengths to get the pivot points between 20"-24" which will help out alignment with the inner pivot point design of the a-arms. With the ability to locate the upper knuckle as needed, I should be able to virtually eliminate bump steer.
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The R180 is considerably larger than the R160 when they are compared side by side. The bonus of getting a USDM R180 out an STi or SpecB Legacy is that they have all have Torsen LSDs. With the JDM Market, you don't know if you are going to get a torsen, plated or Suretac type of R180. The R180 will easily handle the power I'll be throwing down.
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Since I will need a hydraulic clutch and cant use the in-tunnel design like I have in the '56, I am going with the Wilwood setup. An issue with using the R180 or really any front differential is the very front of the tunnel. In order to align the center point of the diff to the center point of the knuckle, a considerable amount of the diff needs to be mounted in the tunnel.
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The tunnel has been opened and boxed in to handle the differential. The width of the napoleons hat can't accept the Wilwood setup of three master cylinders. Not really a big deal because the hat was eliminated by the new tunnel front. I am going to fab the front firewall out of 1" square tubing sandwiched between two plates of 11ga steel. This will also allow me to not only mount the compact master cylinders but provide a mounting area for the front suspension structure. There will be a precious few inches between the front axles and the master cylinders.
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Should have the firewall fabbed and welded in by the weekend.
56' Semaphore Ragtop Subaru (Build)
Subaru Engine & Transmission
Mendeola Suspension

69' Karmann Convertible (Build)
Suby AWD Driveline


05 Suby Baja Turbo - Stage 2+
07 Legacy Spec B - Stage 2
15 Suby Forester XT
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Piledriver
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Re: The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

Post by Piledriver »

Are the low mounted masters going to clear the axles? based on the diff location, seems they'd be right in the way if I'm following correctly.
Trying to visualize it, seems a hanging pedal set with the junk in the trunk would work out better, but you obviously have a much better view.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
56SemaRag
Posts: 395
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 1:29 pm

Re: The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

Post by 56SemaRag »

Your point is very valid Pile and one of those "awe snap" moments in design that I ran into. Kind of had to work backwards from where the knuckles will sit properly in the wheel well. I am trying to keep the fore/aft axle angle at zero especially since the axles themselves will be shorter. This puts the differential center for the axles at 7.5 inches from the bulkhead. Adding in the radius of the STi axles puts me at 6" of clearance. Fortunately wilwood has a compact master cylinder with a length of 4" so I should be good. I also have a bit of wiggle room with the bulkhead. The original bulkhead width is right at 1-1/4". Since I am making the bulkhead, I can pocket that area and should be able to gain another 1-1/8" of clearance if needed.
Image
56' Semaphore Ragtop Subaru (Build)
Subaru Engine & Transmission
Mendeola Suspension

69' Karmann Convertible (Build)
Suby AWD Driveline


05 Suby Baja Turbo - Stage 2+
07 Legacy Spec B - Stage 2
15 Suby Forester XT
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Piledriver
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Re: The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

Post by Piledriver »

You going with dual masters and a balance bar?
(Ah, looking at the pic again I count 3)
They make a neat "remote" cable bias adjuster setup for those.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
User avatar
GS guy
Posts: 909
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 12:01 am

Re: The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

Post by GS guy »

The Tilton 75 series MCs are the shortest I've found. Ran into a similar issue with IFS setup, MCs were taking up the same space where the R&P needed to go. Had to get the shortest possible set-up I could locate - the Tilton's with banjo end fittings. It works, just barely in my case. Might be a option if you need it.
http://tiltonracing.com/product/75-seri ... nder-kits/

These slick banjos adapt to a standard brake line IF fitting:
http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/in ... cat128.htm
56SemaRag
Posts: 395
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 1:29 pm

Re: The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

Post by 56SemaRag »

That's good info gents thank you. Looks like the Tilton and Wilwood have the same hole spacing so that definitely gives me some options. I get a bit of a break in that the Suby knuckles are front steer so the rack won't be near the master cylinder cluster. Closest thing to them should be the inboard axle ends.

On the other hand my air compressor motor windings are toast, so I am figuring out what motor and pulley to go with. It was used and abused the last several years. Don't want to deal with this again so it looks like am going with a lower RPM Baldor motor and larger pulley.
56' Semaphore Ragtop Subaru (Build)
Subaru Engine & Transmission
Mendeola Suspension

69' Karmann Convertible (Build)
Suby AWD Driveline


05 Suby Baja Turbo - Stage 2+
07 Legacy Spec B - Stage 2
15 Suby Forester XT
56SemaRag
Posts: 395
Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2010 1:29 pm

Re: The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

Post by 56SemaRag »

Got most of the bulkhead finished. Just have to weld up the perimeter and other seams. The upper pockets are for bolts that will tie into the body. There are also weldnuts on the either side. Decided to pocket the pedal assembly to allow the master cylinders and pedal assembly to mounted on either side of the 1/8" plate. This will also give me additional clearance with the master cylinders and drive axles.
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56' Semaphore Ragtop Subaru (Build)
Subaru Engine & Transmission
Mendeola Suspension

69' Karmann Convertible (Build)
Suby AWD Driveline


05 Suby Baja Turbo - Stage 2+
07 Legacy Spec B - Stage 2
15 Suby Forester XT
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ajdenette
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Re: The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

Post by ajdenette »

You do some amazing metal work 56SemaRag!!!
Alex

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petew
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Re: The Huntress - AWD '69 Vert Ghia Project

Post by petew »

56SemaRag wrote: Tue Apr 11, 2017 4:43 pm Got most of the bulkhead finished. Just have to weld up the perimeter and other seams. The upper pockets are for bolts that will tie into the body. There are also weldnuts on the either side. Decided to pocket the pedal assembly to allow the master cylinders and pedal assembly to mounted on either side of the 1/8" plate. This will also give me additional clearance with the master cylinders and drive axles.
That's awesome!

I'd only say, watch out that you don't over-engineering it. :wink:
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