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pulled the VSS, crank pos, cam pos and IACV to clean and check. No clue if the IACV is working but it is the older version that is adjustable which might come in handy when trying to get the car to idle down more. Unfortunately the gasket is toast after pulling it off this time so i need to find that or perhaps just seal it up with something else. Also, just so we're clear, the IACV for this particular year is like $500 bucks... WTH i paid that much for the entire engine.

Not sure of the best way to test the magnetic sensors with a multimeter as the ohm part isn't reading but i did find a signal and a jump when metal was nearby on each. A potential issue could be the angle I had the VSS aimed. There is a chance it was reading the collar as well as the bolt heads so i am going to test it almost directly head on to the bolts instead to see if it gets a better reading.

Update: I have a VSS reading!! woooo
also made a gasket for the IACV and realized the little cap that i thought was an adjuster of some sort(hard plastic with flat edges to turn it) was actually just a cap someone put on a vac line thats on the IACV so i read elsewhere that it is supposed to be plumbed to the intake pre-maf so i did a low budget version to test soon. car is apart so i cant test fire but once i finish the new VSS bracket and ducting for radiator's fresh air, we should be in good shape.

Sounds like some good progress !

trying like hell!

Not sure if i mentioned that i changed air direction once trying the other fan and realizing how much cooler the car ran when pulling the air out of the engine bay but now the air will be scooped from under and forced into the radiator then hopefully out the vents under the window as well as on the decklid. You were right all along Petew



radiator shroud is all tacked up and ugly and the scoop is about halfway there. Gotta finish mocking up the scoop, pull out the tig and actually weld everything. Thought later into it that i should have done aluminum but i had a lot of scrap sheet steel and used the existing rad mount in some areas so this made sense. we'll see how well it works once finished but it fits with a couple notches for the iacv and alt cable and it'll be fed by a 4 inch duct that will be getting a lot of air from the scoop under the car.

Looking good.

exhausting weekend but the shroud and scoop are all welded up. Also tore the motor down for my other project and (with the help of my dad) fixed a broken rafter support in my attic.
scoop took some doing to figure out the mounting but i got it all sorted and will take pics soon. it fits very snuggly next to the lower shock mount,in front of the axle, up against the frame horn and it seems like it'll be overkill, hopefully thats the case.

I don't think there's such a thing as overkill when it comes to cooling systems.

petew wrote: ↑Mon May 21, 2018 2:46 pm I don't think there's such a thing as overkill when it comes to cooling systems.

ahh, then i hope its sufficient

cleaned up and coated

I have a 4" duct running between the 2

may still block off around the mouth to ensure it gets all available air


remember, this was made with scraps so its not the prettiest but at least its going under the car and no one has to look at it.

Dude, that's righteous! No shame in that. Best scoop I've seen in a while.

Wasn't able to get a real test in but i got everything back together and bent up some decklid hinges to they'll work with the radiator placement



took it for a short drive but hadn't tightened down the IACV so it spun all the way to one side(open i guess) and the car started idling around 3800 RPMs so i got it back to the driveway as quickly as possible. Also didn't burp the system again since having the radiator halfway off so once that air bubble hit it got hot quick. Mind you, all of this happened while running the factory unvented decklid but for now I'm not completely ruling out the ability to run that lid. I have the vented one ready to go but wanted to see about this one as it'd be nice to have it color matched.

Gotta make those adjustments and try again, luckily i do have a speed reading now and I'm hoping that i can get the idle under control once i set the IACV and TPS.

several layers of paint later, i found metal
hoping that if the solid lid doesn't work this one will.


also shimmed the lower door hinge so you don't have to pick up on it to close the door and cleaned up a little more wiring up front.

In the words of Yeats...

"Ah, body work. How I hate thee!"

Well, it might not have been Yeats but I still hate it.

petew wrote: ↑Tue Jun 05, 2018 8:21 pm In the words of Yeats...

"Ah, body work. How I hate thee!"

Well, it might not have been Yeats but I still hate it.

yup, its the worst man. such a pain in the ass and such a mess

oy...
just when i thought i was wrapping this up i can't get the cooling system to burp, i don't think the new thermostat is working all of the sudden because i lost a lot of coolant when i was working through the shroud and whatnot but it won't take much and once at heat it'll push it back up the funnel of course and try to overheat. Its acting the same as it did last time(getting hot at idle) before i burped the system only this time it won't burp

so on the crossover manifold i installed a valve that allows any air bubbles to exit if u open it.

some word of caution here cuz if ya crack it wide upen in a pressurized system u could get burned with hot coolant.

i had the same issues u talk about with air pockets.

so once i did this mod it made the issue dissapear.

might help might not. anyways good luck

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turboedbug wrote: ↑Wed Jun 13, 2018 6:28 pm so on the crossover manifold i installed a valve that allows any air bubbles to exit if u open it.

I installed 3 of those on my rad. You can see the two on each in and out..... and one at the welded bung on the other end (end tank). I wish I added one more to that cross over manifold