71 bug - planned EJ20t swap - new member

[jhoefer]

I think you'll probably want to modify that mount. Either remove the solid mounts on the trans bellhousing or if possible, cut them off, move them outward and then mount a plain bump stop (http://prothane.com/universal-product-g ... de-page-3/) on them to just let the trans bellhousing rest on. With the trans solidly bolted to the mount, the rubber engine mounts are effectively non-functional and are not really supporting the engine. By moving the trans mounts and putting a bumpstop on them, you regain the vibration isolation of the rubber engine mounts and support the engine better. Also by using the bumpstops vs simply removing the mounts you still provide a way to keep the transmission in proper position when the engine is removed which will make maintenance simpler. If you just remove the trans mounts, you would have to support both the transmission and engine when trying to mate them together again. However, depending on your clearance to the large frame horn bolts (don't forget to account for the diameter of the socket used), it may not actually be possible to relocate the trans mounts out far enough and the only choice would be to just cut them off completely.

[ryans88gt]

Interesting thoughts... but I'm sticking with the solid mount. I wanted a solid mount, will also have a solid weld in mid mount on the trans. I do not care about vibration isolation.

I didn't go into the details of how I built the mount, but I mocked it up with the engine supported by the mounts so they were fully compressed. Then moved the pads I welded on about 1/32" up. This provides a decent amount of support on the motor mounts. This makes it a little more challenging to mate the engine and trans, but I was able to do it with enough wiggling with the trans mount nuts slightly loose. I tapped the trans mount holes and used an oversize bolt making it easy to loosen and tighten the trans mount nuts without access inside the bellhousing. With the motor mount bolts tight it will also provide additional rotational support. Rubber and rubber might have been good, but then with a solid mid mount I would have the same issue. I wanted the engine and transaxle to be as rigidly mounted as possible as I do not want to fight wind-up with this much power on tap. So... best thing to do would be to have solid subaru motor mounts as well, but I am happy just having a little extra support. From what I have seen, most people end up not doing anything with the motor mounts.

[panel]

You guys seen this one?

http://www.subarugears.com/Mounts/Beetl ... turbo.html

[ryans88gt]

yep... and that is what I would use if money was not an object and I was using a subaru trans with $2500 of parts to make it work, plus the $500 mount.... notice it does not have a trans mount, also.
I want to be able to mount the trans separately from the engine.

I am pretty happy with the $50 I have in this mount.

[ryans88gt]

Out with the old

Removed the rear valence...





it is about time to do some rear end surgery.

[ryans88gt]

Some updated photos.

Package tray / firewall area got cut out will get flipped around and will get a little creative back there. Turbo and intercooler are in the stock (subaru) location. I will use a 7" fan to keep some airflow down over the intercooler. Should be a decent supply of cool air from the VW rear motor vents.



Moving the transmission forward 2" by flipping the transmount gets everything under the fenders and rear valence without having to hack up any of the outter facing parts. The bumper mounts are gone however.



Everything fits... spent an hour or so messing around with the deck lid getting it adjusted again. 50 minutes of figuring out how the adjustments move the lid and then 10 minutes of actual beneficial movements... lol. Ignore the seal hanging out at this point. I didn't put it back in the grove since I will have to take this all back apart at least one more time. I put three 1/4 inch bolts through each side of the rear valence to mount it to the bumpers. Seems fairly sturdy. That rear deck lid spring is a bastard too... there must be some trick to it, but it took me awhile to get it back on.



Also had to remove the water protector part off the deck lid so it would close over my air filter and other parts. May have to get one of those water repellent filter covers.

Next up is to mock up the exhaust, then pull everything back out so I can fix up the package tray and final weld everything. Got a lot of welding to do: Package tray, tabs on the kafer bar, fill the bumper holes in the fenders, seat brackets, weld up the exhaust, fuel tank sump... etc...

[ryans88gt]

Alright so after mock up, I pulled the rear valence, engine, transmission, and fenders back off.

Then I replaced the rear wheel bearings and brakes... found out one of the rear axles had the wrong size outer spacer on the stub axle, so I replaced that with a new one. Everything went back together nicely, accept I had to cut and reflare one brake line that was being a pita and was stuck in an old wheel cylinder. Now new drums, new wheel cylinders, new shoes, new bearings, new grease... ready to go.

Next major under taking is to rebuild the rear firewall. I wanted to make it removable so that I will have access to stuff back there without to much of a hassle under the hood. So I flipped over the piece I cut out, started welding up some angle iron, made some sides out of 16 ga steel and welded them to the firewall. Now the whole firewall piece is removable with 18 bolts. The nuts are welded on the firewall side so I can easily remove the bolts. Anyway, here is the result of about a full weekend's work.

[surfbeetle]

I like what you've done with the rear firewall... hmmm where have I seen that before? Well since everyone is sharing their ideas, I like the way you have mounted the intercooler and I think that I will pull mine off from over the engine and see how it may work that way. It sure make for a cleaner engine compartment and may simplify the piping from what I had in mind. The main issue for me would be that I may not have allowed enough room under my flipped firewall. If you look at my thread, you can see how I did my rear bumper brackets, I can stand on them and they don't move. Keep up the good work.

[panel]

Looks good. Are you just going to scuff her down and spray bomb it semi factory kinda colour to match ?

[ryans88gt]

I like what you've done with the rear firewall... hmmm where have I seen that before? Well since everyone is sharing their ideas, I like the way you have mounted the intercooler and I think that I will pull mine off from over the engine and see how it may work that way. It sure make for a cleaner engine compartment and may simplify the piping from what I had in mind. The main issue for me would be that I may not have allowed enough room under my flipped firewall. If you look at my thread, you can see how I did my rear bumper brackets, I can stand on them and they don't move. Keep up the good work.

Yeah I did like your idea and copied it a bit

Yes having the turbo and intercooler in the factory position was the easiest thing to do... time will tell if it gets enough air flow back there. I picked up a 7" fan that I am going to mount on it pushing air down.

I think I am going to skip bumpers... in fact I am trying to sell them I like the car bumperless

[ryans88gt]

Looks good. Are you just going to scuff her down and spray bomb it semi factory kinda colour to match ?

Think I am just going to paint the engine bay and package area black, but first I am going to treat it for rust and brush on some sound deadening material, then I may just use black bed liner type stuff to cover it up. Black for the engine bay is fine for me.

As for the rest of the car, I am going to have it resprayed approximately the factory color.


Thanks for looking!

[ryans88gt]

built some new seat brackets for the alcantera seats that will be going in there.

you can see the rear quarter pan that I replaced. Coated all the floor in rust reformer just to clean and seal things up. Floor pan was in pretty good shape besides the part I replaced.

[tonyorlo]

Great build! Im considering the subie swap instead of type 4 in my ghia. I think I will go with the subaru trans if I do it.

[ryans88gt]

Thanks! It's coming along now. Reinstalled my shortened shift rod and started working on the radiator mounting. Next major obstacle will be redoing the front suspension. I have a set of 2" drop spindles and disc brakes to go on there along with new ball joints and tie rod ends. Looks like a fun job.


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[ryans88gt]

Well... got started on the front suspension. Blew all the old stuff apart and took all four trailing arms off and cleaned and re-greased them.

Then I replaced all four ball joints. Luckily I have a 20 ton press in my basement and all went fairly smoothly... at least until one of the arbor plates slid off while I was adjusting the press and landed on my knee... ouch. hobbling around a bit today. But the trailing arms are back in with 4 new ball joints.

Pictures to come.

Next up is to re-install the sway bar and put the 2" drop spindles on. Then the disc brake setup and new shocks and tie rod ends. I also replaced the steering dampener and adjusted the steering box while I had the gas tank out.