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All the EJ,EG,EZ Subis use the same adapter plate, its just the later ones have 2 extra mounting bolts at the bottom.

SUpers do have a lot more room for a radiator but you also make a standard Beetle radiator setup work, just as long as its up front where it belongs.

Awesome, thank you so much! We were just re-examining the regular Beetle's trunk and figured we could place the radiator down where the spare tire would normally go, cut some vents in the front for air flow. We have our Subie donor all lined up, should be picking it up tomorrow or Wednesday.

We've also been planning to do a disc brake conversion for the Bug, since drum brakes are awful. Is there anything we can steal from the Subie to make this easier/cheaper? [[EDIT]] I've been looking at JBugs, and you can get a 4x130 disc brake conversion kit for not too terribly much, but we're also wanting to switch from a 4 lug pattern to a 5. Can we do BOTH the disc brake conversion and the lug adapter? How would that work?

As an aside, would you happen to be Joel over on Aussieveedubbers? Your profile pics are the same, so I think it's you. If so, we've been reading your swap post over there as well. SO much good information between this thread and the AVD site. The boyfriend was just commenting on your swapped gauges.

Yep that would be me.
There may actually be pictures of it in the thread but I also had a watercooled standard beetle too.
it came with an RX4 radiator but I had one from a late 80s 318i BMW that was going to fit ok and was slightly bigger.

There was a guy on volkszone that was using the subi brakes but id be worried about the balance being all wrong coming from a front engined car.
you can order most disc kits with different patterns.

Thanks for an in depth write up and continuation of help to those in the process.

Sorry if I missed it, but wondering how much time you guys set aside for the swap, and what it ended up taking. Looking to do a mid mount into my gutted baja, and not sure if that is a help or a hindrance time wise. I certainly do not want to rush things, but would like a good plan as I will most likely be moving in 3 months.

Cheers!

Chantruese wrote: We've also been planning to do a disc brake conversion for the Bug, since drum brakes are awful. Is there anything we can steal from the Subie to make this easier/cheaper? [[EDIT]] I've been looking at JBugs, and you can get a 4x130 disc brake conversion kit for not too terribly much, but we're also wanting to switch from a 4 lug pattern to a 5. Can we do BOTH the disc brake conversion and the lug adapter? How would that work?

I'd hold on to all those brake parts in case this happens anytime soon... http://www.subarugears.com/subabrakes/

I built the harness as shown. Everything works but after I get it running it doesn't shut off. It creates its own 12v source in the ignition on circuit after turning to on position. I can unplug the D-5 wire from the relay and it kind of resets. I feel like its something in that circuit with the diode. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Check your key on power, make sure it is to the engine side of the diode not the ECM side.

Also look for any other power wire spliced in.

Jeff

I have looked and looked and it all seems to be right. I have a 35 check engine light. That says it is a sensor that isn't used. Ill have to look at it over the weekend. I will try to figure out what wire that is in the ECM and see if it is going to the right place. Everything else works as it should. I guess my thinking is that since that is the only code that it might have something to do with that sensor. Does that sound logical? The fuel pump and fans cycle as they should it runs great. Once the ignition switch is switched to on the only way to turn it off is to break the circuit going to the coil side of the ignition relay. Once you restore the ignition relay circuit it remains off until ignition switch is switched on. Sorry for rambling I just didn't want to miss any details. Thanks again for any help.

Main relay is staying engaged, shouldn't be anything with that code, just key on power or other power wire on the wrong side of the diode.

Check if relay coil switch is sourcing or sinking. I haven't been there yet on my project, but have read that they can be set up to be switched to ground(sink) by the ecm instead of having the power wire switched(source).

The wire diagram shows the ignition relay hooked up on the ecm. Is that not correct? Im going to look right now at my power wires again.

Also I don't know if this might have something to do with it. I didn't really understand how the ground circuit translated to the three plug set up. In my third engine plug I have 2 of each of the same color black with a stripe wires. Everywhere I should have one harness wire going to to the engine I have 2 wires hooked into it. That being said I have 2 black and white in engine plug three that I connected to the other relay wire. Maybe one of those 2 wires could be causing the problem?

Hey there... sorry haven't checked on this thread for a while.

Any ground will work on the ground side of the ignition relay. If wired like the picture and the key is turning power off, the only sources of power would be the ECU iteself (possible if the "hot when key on" wire is incorrectly "hot at all times"), or from a backfeed from the engine wiring.

I agree the 3 plug translation isn't that understandable, but it should be correct. I'm pretty sure the coil power should be cut with the key the way I had designed it, so there is probably something screwy either with my directions, or with your wiring of the three plugs. Do you have diagrams to work with? If not I could look and see sometime this week.

Well I just got mine running and it feels good to me, smooth and no codes. I am a long way from driving though because of all the rest of the things I need to do like clutch linkage, throttle. brakes, and a shifter but the motor is working like it should. I used TimS's wright up and added a little of my own (used the Subaru fuse panel) but he has a good wright up that was a big help. I did have one wire that is a different color code and wrote it down but don't have my notes in the house but will add that to this thread later and maybe a little on the fuse panel. The one thing I figured out about the 4 relays is pull one out and look at it, the 2 copper looking tangs are the work side and the 2 silver tangs are the control side and they work nice.

Thank you Tim for your work and documenting it up so well, it has helped me and many others I am sure.

Ed

Here are a couple pics of my harness.
The fuse panel is hard to use and I am only able to figure out 75% of it but it does work well. My notes are confusing even to me
The one wire I had that was different than TimS's write up was C-10 wire that goes to the starter solenoid, his was red/yellow and mine was blue with a red trace.

And here is a very short video of it running https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln3_rIV ... e=youtu.be

Thanks again Tim for your work.

Ed