DIY - 1990-1994 1/2 EJ22 Subaru Conversion with stock ECU

[TimS]

Tim, Where did you get the ECU plug schematics?
I need to wire up the green test ports to my ECU, but a schematic of an '03 is difficult to get ahold of.

Do you know which ECU you have? Is it the ej251 or an EJ254? Any idea what car it came from?

This is great info and will definatly come in handy at some point during this year

I'm recently learning of some differences from USA cars to AUS cars. I'm going to try to add a contact person for questions regarding AUS wiring.

[TimS]

This is great info and will definatly come in handy at some point during this year

Nilza, a fellow STF member Buggin_74 is located in NSW, Austrailia and is knowledgable about EJ22 conversions and has resources to find answers. If there are inconsistencies from the USA to AUS ECU's, he has volunteered to answer anyone's questions. Thanks Buggin_74!

[TimS]

Tim, Where did you get the ECU plug schematics?
I need to wire up the green test ports to my ECU, but a schematic of an '03 is difficult to get ahold of. I have the plugs, but I need to know how to wire them in so the ECU can be put in test/tune state so it can be dyno tuned.

\
Dave,

Sned me your e-mail, I have a file for you. It should be pin # 3 on the B136 connector. If this wire is grounded, you will enter test mode.

And you might as well move this to the conversion perversions thread, if the mods over there are okay with it. Don't want to distract from the off road stuff going on here.

[Ghia Nut]

still working on my loom and stripping it,
damn this things got some wires!
Ill add some to this when I get time.

[Buggin_74]

Unless you enjoy tracing circuits I rate the loom work as the worst part of the conversion and I think is what scares people the most.

It's frustrating that there is such a variation in the electrics between countries.
It would be so much easier if they were all just wired the same.

I've so far seen 3 different ECUs used in Gen 1 AUDM 90-94 Legacys (Libertys as they are called here)

I'm using a D5 ECU (1992) in mine, but I have also seen D5 ECU used in the UK as well.

[TimS]

Unless you enjoy tracing circuits I rate the loom work as the worst part of the conversion and I think is what scares people the most.

That's my objective here, is to make it less scary. It's all point a to b and so far with USA cars, the only difference I've found is in the grounding positions. That's why I recommend that you run the grounding "switches" to an accesable point. Then it's only a matter of an hour or so of experimentation to get the settings you need.

It took me two sittings of a solid four hours to get the harness stripped, cleaned, and wrapped (as in the lettered picture) once it was out of the car. Just hold onto the plugs you need and forget everything else. Everything except the sensor wires can be spliced anywhere along it's length and most of them will be adjusted for length anyways, so you have to cut 'em.

[RottenRawb]

Hey, it worked for me!!!

Thats my testimonial

[TimS]

Hey, it worked for me!!!

Thats my testimonial

Thanks Rawb, I wish I could help you with your other questions, but I'll leave the speedos for someone else.

[birddog1148]

Tim, did you have to cut the body at all to do this conversion? Are you running heat with it?

[TimS]

Cuttign the firewall. Yes, I did, but as you know, my baja is pretty cut up already so it wasn't a hard choice. For me, metal was cheaper than building a new intake. I've seen some run a 180deg fitting on the intake and keep the firewall, also it's pretty common to flip the intake manifold. If you go with the ten degree kit, you will either have to cut the firewall, reverse the intake because there won't be enough room for the 180deg fitting, or you could consider moving the engine/trans back a few inches if you're going for longer arms. Anoher option for the die hard off roader would be to cut a circle and just run the intake inside. Flipping the intake involves rewiring (reversing) the wiring harness on the engine, plus relocating the alternator. There is lots of information on the net. Search "ej22 flipped intake", then click images, I'm sure it will show you. (I found this link with some good info --> http://www.vtpete.com/vw/labels/engine.html)


For reference in this picture... The top of the aluminum adapter plate is about level with the package tray. The front of the intake (blue towel) is about 2" behind the factory firewall.


Heat... Yes. Many options from crude to refined, but here is what I did. http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... &start=210

I just ran a few hoses through the factory air ducting to under the rear seat and plumbed the hot air into the factory channel. This is a military surplus Jeep heater, $60 or so. It works okay on chilly mornings, but can't keep up with my uninsulated bug body at 10 degrees F.

On the next page of that build is a picture of what I could cobble together with the factory subaru heater parts. I haven't installed it yet.

[nilza]

There is a greeen wire that comes from the altenator that I haven't worked out yet and find no referance to. Also a brown wire from the 'C' plug, spot #14 I think, that is stated to be empty, but it isn't. I have some lenght left here for when I work it out or someone can enlighten me :smilegrin:

I would say there is about 30hrs in it and there is probably alot of stuff I would do different (like just cut everything off at the plugs and just build from the guide and the workshop manual)------ but here it is, no idea if it works yet. Will start on the changes to the motor from here and get to the point where I can get rid of the shell and fire this on a stand. Though I have to point out having a brewery up the road from your house sure does take its toll quickly :crazy:

[TimS]

There is a greeen wire that comes form the coil that I haven't worked out yet and find no referance to.

I'm not sure about the AUS wiring, but I show three wires to the coil... Yellow = power, Blue to ignitor and Red/Green to ignitor. Hope that helps.

Also a brown wire from the 'C' plug, spot #14 I think, that is stated to be empty, but it isn't. I have some lenght left here for when I work it out or someone can enlighten me :smilegrin:

Could it be C6, by chance? It would be right on top of C14, brown wire to throttle position sensor? I hope someone familiar with AUS cars can help, if no one chimes in I'd try to PM buggin_74, he might know. My US diagrams say it's empty.

...I would do different (like just cut everything off at the plugs and just build from the guide and the workshop manual

I agree, it's a hard concept to just start cutting things, but after my first one that's exactly what I did for the second one.


That's a nice looking harness. My fingers are crossed for you.

[Buggin_74]

I'll see if I can suss it out tomorrow

[nilza]

Thanks TS i learnt from the best,

Few, must have been a big weekend the green wire was from the altenator, ( brain must have been fried when i wrote that last night) went out to the garage again this morning and is definatly c14, c6 is indeed right above and brown and hooked to the throttle positon,

Was going to send you a PM over aussieveedubbers, if i didn't get a response here. Thanks joel

[Buggin_74]

I had a poke around in mine and there is indeed a wire in the C14 on mine too, blue with a yellow trace.

It heads to the engine bay but its not in the 3 main plugs so it could only be to do with either the cam or crank pos sensors or the knock sensor or oxygen sensor.

My loom is all in corrugated loom tube so its hard to trace it exactly.
I'll try and follow it a bit better on the weekend see if i can make sense of it.



**just to anyone else who was reading along it was C15 on mine that was folded over and looked like it was coming from C14 plug when infact there is nothing in C14 on mine**