Carb'd (Now EFI) EJ22 Into '69 Bug

[Buggin_74]

gen1 EJ engines like this turn the fan on at 96c/205f and back off at 90c/195f so thats a good indication of how accurate a temp gauge is.

Yeah, my gauge reads about 218-220F when the computer turns the fan on, and it turns it off a little over 200F. So, at least it seems to be consistently 15F high.

I actually don't think it's going to need to run the fan that often. I drove it around today in 95F heat, and the fan never turned on once, even sitting in traffic for a few minutes.

My problem for tomorrow is going to be messing with the speed sensor again. My magnet thing isn't working too well, and I'm getting the stalling problem while pulling up to stoplights again. Very annoying. So, looks like I'll be surfing eBay for a proximity sensor and building the "wheel of death" for the CV joint. Do you happen to have a link to the scale drawing of it? I think I've seen the template for the Vanagon guys, but do Vanagons use the same CV bolt pattern as beetles?


Nick

If you have good air flow through your radiator on the move the fan wont come on real often.
You know how tiny my little radiator is, I put over 1000kms on it before the fan came on of it's own accord, and that was from sitting in bumper to bumper traffic for a good 10 mins.

More dejavu, my magnetic reed sensor didn't last long either.
that proximity sensor has proven itself in all sorts of crappy weather conditions, and 2 other people have also used it.

The Vanagon CV bolt pattern is bigger, I just used the template to get blade shape and spacing then added the beetle PCD for the bolts.
The template was in the Subaruvanagon archives, but I've long since deregistered as the 10+ emails a day was driving me nuts.
I'm pretty sure I have a PDF of it though saved in my subaru folder.
I'll see if i can find it and email it too you.

[Mooosman]

I'm pretty sure I have a PDF of it though saved in my subaru folder.
I'll see if i can find it and email it too you.

That would help. I looked through the Subaru Vanagon archives, but I didn't see anything.


Nick


*Edit*

Do you have a model number for that proximity sensor? Ebay lists like 6000 results!

It shows most of them with a black wire, blue wire, and brown wire. Which goes where?

[Buggin_74]

You need an NPN version not a PNP

like this

http://cgi.ebay.com/Connector-Proximity ... 27ba4f0b19

The main difference is the gap sensing, i think mine was 5mm.

I'll check when I'm over at the shed which wires go where but there is ground, + ignition power and then ECU output

Edit:

Blue - Ground
Black - VSS signal to ECU
Brown - 12volt ignition power - this is to power the LED that lights up when it detects metal.

[Mooosman]

*Update 5-29-11*

Speed Sensor V2.0


Okay, as you may have seen a couple pages ago, we tried making a speed sensor using magnets glued to the CV joint, and a modified Subaru reed switch (from the donor Subaru speedo cluster). This setup seemed to work for a little while, but then the car started stalling again, always when pulling up to a light and pushing the clutch in. Code 24 (idle air control) also started popping up again. So, it was time to find a better way.

Thanks to Joel and the Vanagon conversion guys, I ended up making the "wheel of death" that bolts to the CV flange, and using an inductive proximity sensor to send the pulsed signal to the ECU. I ended up buying an Omron NPN proximity sensor for about $20. It is a high quality sensor, made in Japan, and only about the size of an AA battery. Looking at the specs on the Omron website, and using a Hz-->MPH conversion I found on a Vanagon website, the sensor is theoretically able to read my speed up to Mach 2!

So, if I ever need to read my speed upon reentry, I know this'll do the job!


Here's the finished product. I used a small L-shaped piece of aluminum for the sensor bracket, which is bolted to the bump stop mount. The wheel is made from 16 gauge sheet metal, and uses the stock CV joint bolts to hold it. The wheel itself is pretty sturdy, so I don't think the blades are in danger of being bent by road debris or anything...





Wiring is pretty simple; just a power wire, a ground, and the signal wire to the ECU. During testing, the built-in LED light inside the sensor lit up whenever a wheel spoke passed by, just like it was supposed to. The first test drive revealed that it was working perfectly. Whereas before the car would stall when pushing the clutch in while coming to a stop, now the engine returns to a normal idle. Code 24 is also gone. Yay!

Bottom line: even though I've had to reengineer a lot of pieces on the car, the final result is getting better and better. The car is getting nicer to drive and easier to live with, and with every tweak and improvement I make, I am ironing out a lot of the 'old car quirks.' It is starting to act (powertrain wise) like a much newer car. Hopefully, when I go through the suspension and brakes this summer, it will start to drive and handle like a much newer car as well.

Nick


Next up: Measuring for backspacing, and having custom-widened steel wheels made. I want to tuck a nice, wide tire out back, while still looking stock.

[Mooosman]

Also, I had to smog check the car last week to renew my registration, and the car passed with flying colors. No cat, no smog equipment, and tested to the 1969 standards. I was worried the inspector would make a big deal of the engine swap (in Nevada, all engine swaps must use an engine newer than the host car, AND retain all emissions equipment from the donor car/year). I needn't have worried, because the guy didn't even notice that it wasn't a VW engine in the engine bay.

The inspector commented afterward that "this is the first old VW that passed on the first try."

Nick

[itawolf]

looking sweet....thx for all the knowledge
Even thou i did a ej swap in 06...then onto type 4.....now going back ej its nice to see
how people come up with new ways

big thx on the heads up on the Mirage fan

Keep posting!!

[MinamiKotaro]

tagging for future reference

[turboedbug]

tagging for future reference

Crossing over to the darkside are ya...

[panel]

Is all the speed sensor/magnet and CV joint work just because an Automatic ECU box is used or is this needed for every Subaru brain?

[RonW]

just a datapoint but MT ECU uses one as well.

[panel]

just a datapoint but MT ECU uses one as well.

MT

What would someone use for a swing axle application? Sorry for asking here

[Steve Arndt]

MT manual trans

I believe they all require a speed sensor. You could mount something to the front wheel like the VDO electronic speedometer uses. A magnet and hall sensor.

[Buggin_74]

Some people run them without a speed sensor and just put up with the little idiosyncrasies it causes but they all need one.
The ECU uses it to control the idle valve, thats why the Idle valve fault (24) comes on when the speed sensor isnt connected.

Some are effected more than others, mine was still drivable without a VSS signal but much happier with one.
Others will stall everytime you come to a stop.

[RonW]

just a datapoint but MT ECU uses one as well.

MT

What would someone use for a swing axle application? Sorry for asking here

thanks steve for answering that, my bad

i mounted mine at the transmission



used this sensor btw

[Martin__]

Do you still have the carb set up? If so, are you willing to sell the set up as a kit? Since you've gone EFI.