Hydraulic lifter / cam into a type-1 rebuild.

knight_red · Post by **knight_red** » Sat Mar 02, 2002 10:40 pm

Is it possible to use hydraulic lifters in a type-1 1600, it's an older case I took out of my bug when I put my engine in. From what I have read you can only use hydraulic lifters in t-4 or newer mexican long blocks. Is this true?

Post by **Piledriver** » Tue Mar 26, 2002 8:54 pm

I think the block can be modified by Rimco, or possibly Bernie Bergman, who (claims) the T1 hydraulic design used by VW was his.

effvee · Post by **effvee** » Thu Mar 28, 2002 1:29 am

Hi, Remco did mine. I got the WebCam hydraulic cam and lifter setup. I took one lifter to Remco along with the case and they mechined it perfit. If I remember rite it was 100$.

david thomas · Post by **david thomas** » Sat Apr 13, 2002 4:17 am

looked into this a while ago, and am still researching it. speak to bob hoover. you will maybe need to uprate oil pressure, enlarge oil galleries to lifter bores. new beetle cases are already equipped with hydraulic tappets, or do some hunting and get hold of a ct case. comes with hydraulics and an external oil filter!

verbeekb · Post by **verbeekb** » Sat Apr 13, 2002 11:11 am

The CT/CZ case does not have the correct oil cooler boss though. It also does not have the screws for the pulley tin, and will need to be have machining done at the pulley end, the ears for the type3/4 like fan shroud get in the way of things. It may be possible to use this case with a doghouse oilcooler into a NON-doghouse fanshroud, as the oilcooler boss sits further back. These do use type4 and wasserboxer typ lifters, and it also has the filterboss. It is magnesium, AS21 if I am right. Most of them have had a hard life in a Vanagon/Transporter, and all that I have seemn suffered severe main bearing damage, even the thrust bearing tends to rotate in these cases. I would only consider a brand new CT case as a base. I do not know if the passages to the oil filter are large enough. It uses the 070 115 561 oil filter, (I'm sure about 070 part, the rest of the number is a guess). Ahnendorp does not recommend this case as he's seem nothing but trouble with them, but it must be taken into account that they had to push big Vanagons, and often were pushed hard. They have 044-like heads with long reach threads, and I think they had the 215mm type1 flywheel, the same as some later European upright engined baywindows. it has type3 cooling tin, but made to fit 8mm headstuds, the partnumber of these also starts with 070. They have the type3 filler opening and the 26mm oilpump. I don't remember if they had the fuelpump opening. It has rear mount bosses in the normal locations. Depending on what VW would want for a new one, and if the filter passages are large enough, I would tend to go for a new Mexican case.

Hope it helps,

Brian

david thomas · Post by **david thomas** » Sun Apr 14, 2002 4:51 pm

interesting reading brian, sounds like you've done a bit of research with ct/cz. okay so it looks like mexican cases are the easier and practical option, has anyone out there had experience with using these cases with hydraulics in a high revving engine. i heard, and stress only heard, that if they are revved hard, the tappets dont fill with oil quick enough. maybe enlargemet of the oil galleries that supply the tappits, and a higher capacity pump, along with adjustable oil bypass valves would do the trick? your comments please.

51MAN · Post by **51MAN** » Thu Apr 25, 2002 4:46 pm

If you are looking at a high rev engine then I dont think the Hyd followers are worth it!!
Use solids, the tappet is ok on std engines but is a power sapper and will "float" when rev'd... once worn will rattle anoyingly as well..
What will it save?? a little time every 3000/6000 miles... if you have to adjust the valves, wow!! I can see it causing more trouble than the gain... but just my opinion!!
Si

Freq2002 · Post by **Freq2002** » Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:19 am

I've got an 1835 type I case that was machined out to use Chevy lifters. In the 8 years I've run it I haven't had any issues, but I did more mid-range driving in it out in the desert. For applications like that where you get alot of heat variations, hyd's are great. For a daily driver, I'd stick w. the solids.
It seems to run fine up around 4-5K RPM's, but past that I dunno about performance problems. Good part is that the lifters are available anywhere for $1.60 a pop. I've had to replace 2 so far, but only because the engine had sat & the lifter valve froze.

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