EJ18 in a ‘69 standard

Are you one of those confused people who can't make up their mind?
Post Reply
User avatar
billz60vw
Posts: 183
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 3:46 am
Location: portland or

Re: EJ18 in a ‘69 standard

Post by billz60vw » Wed Jul 11, 2018 8:42 pm

The original thermistat has a hole in it and some of the aftermarket ones dont.you can try running without it to see if it fixes your problem.

joelzy
Posts: 117
Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2015 3:53 pm

Re: EJ18 in a ‘69 standard

Post by joelzy » Thu Jul 12, 2018 8:46 am

billz60vw wrote:The original thermistat has a hole in it and some of the aftermarket ones dont.you can try running without it to see if it fixes your problem.
I’ll check it out, if dumping coolant i’ll probably go ahead and put in the bleeders and maybe that core as well. That combination should make some difference


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

User avatar
surfbeetle
Posts: 400
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 12:20 am

Re: EJ18 in a ‘69 standard

Post by surfbeetle » Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:10 pm

I would think that with your setup based on your diagram, you'd have an easy time of burping the system. Is your radiator fill at the highest point? I can't tell from your pics. Is it possible that you've got air getting caught at the highest point in the radiator? Also, do you have a bleed in the heater loop? You don't want the heater loop to go up higher than the pipes it's connected to. I have a valve from my heater circuit that I can open and it will bleed up to my overflow container. My car has a mojave style jeep heater under the rear seat opposite of the battery so my heater loop goes down from the engine to the heater and back. If there's no circulation on the heater loop your thermostat won't open. With my radiator up front with a fill opening and the opening at the rear, I thought for sure my heater loop was fill of coolant and even changed my thermostat thinking it was faulty. Once I was able to bleed the heater loop and then also added a large tank inline on the upper radiator line, my bleeding issues were over. I used to have a Chevy Suburban with a diesel engine. From the factory, GM had placed two bleeder screws at different points on top of the engine that had to be opened when bleeding the cooling system. You may need to weld one or more bleeders into your radiator at the highest point. One last thing to my long answer, have you thought of using a pressure pump to fill the coolant and force the air out? Here's a link I found on Google. Good luck!
_______________
'67 Bug EJ20 Turbo
Build Thread

joelzy
Posts: 117
Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2015 3:53 pm

Re: EJ18 in a ‘69 standard

Post by joelzy » Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:28 pm

surfbeetle wrote:
Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:10 pm
I would think that with your setup based on your diagram, you'd have an easy time of burping the system. Is your radiator fill at the highest point? I can't tell from your pics. Is it possible that you've got air getting caught at the highest point in the radiator? Also, do you have a bleed in the heater loop? You don't want the heater loop to go up higher than the pipes it's connected to. I have a valve from my heater circuit that I can open and it will bleed up to my overflow container. My car has a mojave style jeep heater under the rear seat opposite of the battery so my heater loop goes down from the engine to the heater and back. If there's no circulation on the heater loop your thermostat won't open. With my radiator up front with a fill opening and the opening at the rear, I thought for sure my heater loop was fill of coolant and even changed my thermostat thinking it was faulty. Once I was able to bleed the heater loop and then also added a large tank inline on the upper radiator line, my bleeding issues were over. I used to have a Chevy Suburban with a diesel engine. From the factory, GM had placed two bleeder screws at different points on top of the engine that had to be opened when bleeding the cooling system. You may need to weld one or more bleeders into your radiator at the highest point. One last thing to my long answer, have you thought of using a pressure pump to fill the coolant and force the air out? Here's a link I found on Google. Good luck!
Thank you sir!!
The cap is technically the highest point but i might need to really make sure by lifting the driver side a touch more than the pass as its hard to fill and make absolutely sure its topped.
The heater line is just a short u-turn currently but i have a couple bleeder valves that i'll probably add to the system this weekend as well as a heater core that i might go ahead and add.
I have a friend with a pump like that so i might give it a shot once he is back in town if this weekend doesn't pan out for me.

Appreciate the input!!

turboedbug
Posts: 446
Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:22 pm
Location: washington

Re: EJ18 in a ‘69 standard

Post by turboedbug » Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:33 pm

another thing to keep in mind.

think of where an air bubble could be resting when the car is not in use.

add a port to let all air out of those spots.

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

1969 beetle rolling subie power
Ej20k vf-22 roller bearing turbo
Wright gearbox pro street -soon to be suby 5 speed
EMS stinger 4424 ecu
Wide 5 discs all the way around

joelzy
Posts: 117
Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2015 3:53 pm

EJ18 in a ‘69 standard

Post by joelzy » Fri Jul 13, 2018 4:10 pm

turboedbug wrote:
Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:33 pm
another thing to keep in mind.

think of where an air bubble could be resting when the car is not in use.

add a port to let all air out of those spots.

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
Thats what i was thinking, like the upper pipe that crosses under the intake manifold seemed like a prime spot to camp out.

thanks!

Ok guys i thought i’d give it one more shot before draining and adding valves and heatercore.
After thinking through surfbeetle’s comment i jacked up just the driver rear and burped again. Got some air out and then got to a point where i could watch the coolant going up and down within the funnel and not burp anymore. So i thought i was in a good spot and checked my temp again. It sat at 212 for about 10 minutes without changing temp at all. Of course not ideal as the fan was running constantly but it wasnt getting any hotter which was a good thing and gives me hope.
Gonna drive tomorrow and see if getting fresh air moving under the car helps that temp come down and maybe i can do a few other tweaks including the higher cfm fan i have.

Post Reply