Let the engine get nice and cool, like overnight. then take out the three clamp scres that hold the choke element on. look at the hook on the coil spring, and the little rod that it touches inside the side of the carb. move the rod w/ your finger to make sure that it's free and in good shape. I had one that was actually bent once...anyway, put the choke element back on, w/ the hook facing so it contacts the rod. rotate it towards the front of the car so there is no tension on the spring and it's not touching the rod. now slowly rotate it towards the rear until you feel it contact the rod. move it until the choke plate is all the way, or most of the way closed, just until it stops. you dont' want any tension on the spring, just contact when the plate is closed. sometimes it's easier to hold the choke closed by hand and rotate until you feel the spring hit the rod. at any rate, no tension on the spring. tighten the clamp screws, and try to open the choke by hand w/ the fast idle cam-not too far, just enough to see if you have too much tension on the spring. you're good to go now. it should start right up when cold, and smooth out after a couple of minutes of running. you need to make sure that the set screw that engages the teeth of the fast idle cam isnt' too far in. with the choke in the all the way open position (ie hot, running position) adjust it so the screw on top of the throttle are just barely touches the bottom of the cam, then 1/4" turn more. now don't adjust that one any more, it's right. Try this out and see what you think. it may take a little tweaking but that should get you pretty darn close. keep the choke adjusted, it makes you run rich if you don't. i usually just check it at the oil change time. good luck.
1963 Beetle, 5 spokes, 1776, dropped spindles, etc...
1973 Standard Beetle, stock.