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Has anyone ever seen bad threads in heads due to swapping brands of plugs?

sideshow wrote: ↑Fri Jan 12, 2018 9:45 pm Or much like the how GL-4 was recommended because that is what was for sale in that era.

GL-4 was never recommended for a Type 1 trans because that rating didn't exist in the 70s.

Make sure you don't set a battery down on bare concrete.

weirdest thing. my turn signals stop working if it rains. took the covers off the front (not rear yet) but, they didnt have moisture.

so, I took out my headlights, cleaned up the area behind each in case they were getting wet. some moisture but not in the plugs. I put them back together, now, the car turns over but wont fire. it tried to catch a few times but won't start or even do that now. I found a bad connector on the fuse block, fixed it thinking that was obviously the problem, but, no change. could doing this cause that?

could my Pertronix have given out? starting fluid in the carb wont even fire. looking for my spark testor now.

gonna have to wait till Monday. too ass cold.

Cold weather makes minor issues that were already present more apparent.
possibly flooded/wet plugs, cold makes it worse as they wont "dry out" as easily cranking at wot.

A lot of ACVWs (OK, probably most) have a huge voltage drop via the long 40+ year old coil power circuit and are running on 6-7v at the coil.
(only line and switch losses, not by design due to a ballast resistor)

This is easy to fix by using the coil power circuit only to control a new in engine compartment, (fused) relay powered off the battery or alternator. (easy to mount on coil bracket)

The relay in turn powers the ignition and ideally backup lights, which suddenly become ~twice as bright.
The ignition also works much better on full power.

your last post wasn't clear to me.

I replaced the main wire harness 5 years ago. At the same time I switched to electronic ignition. More recently I replace the ground strap with coated copper wiring of sufficient gauge. The fuse panel was also replaced.

The car was running absolutely perfect until I decided to take the headlights off and maintenance the area behind them in my first attempt to track down the turn signals that stop working every time it rains.

I also took the front turn signal covers off but did not find any moisture on the signals or connections up there. I have not taken the rear tail lights off to inspect them yet.

I had a wire connector go bad on the coil one time and I've got very similar no start symptoms to what's happening now. I checked all those connectors and they seem to have the firm connection. I'm looking for my spark tester to put on each plug & see if there is any spark or if it's just weak.

So far I'm getting no moisture on the fuse panel front turn signals or even front headlights especially the connectors. I have had trouble with the Pertonix on long trips when it gets hot I have to let the car cool for an hour before it's cool enough to start again.

Because of this overheating condition I fear the module may have just failed if I cannot find a simple connector issue related to this no-start condition.

Just to update, the weather over the past week has been mild in the 70s here in Florida. So cold hasn't been an issue but I do have the turn signal issue where the dash light just comes on but does not flash when I try to use a turn signal. This is the second time it's happened when we've had a rain. something is shorting with moisture.

hopefully, that is a better scenario of my Bug's condition. I still have some simple things to check before I start I the ignition module.

The emergency flasher switch can cause the TS issue you describe, it doesn't get used much if ever and the contacts oxidize.
try cycling the emergency flasher in/out a dozen times when the turn signal is acting up and see if they start working.

it took till tonite and they started working. I'm not happy because it happens every time it rains. could be co-incidence, but, it has happened 3x now after a rain.

I'll cycle the flasher several times anyway.

thx.

ok I thought this was a plug/wire issue, but, today I tried to start the Bug and have no spark again. yesterday I had difficulty starting it but it ran fine once it did start. I thought it just because I didn't start the bug in a couple days. But today I only got a little chirp over ignition and then it did not start at all it does turn over fine and the rest of the ignition seems to be working except no spark.

I have found the Bosch WR8AC to be problematic with the built in resistor causing a miss. I used Bosch plugs for over 40 years but no longer because the quality is wanting. NGK B6HS plugs and a set of stock VW plug wires will work well and last. Might be a good idea to check the rotor. It to has a resistor that can burn out especially with an electronic module and a 40K coil.

where is the rotor resister you mention?

rrb6699 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 01, 2018 7:27 pm where is the rotor resister you mention?

its built into the rotor, ohm test from center of rotor to tip.

Hi, I changed the plugs and wires recommendations from you guys. The only problem I have now is the car seems to backfire at idle. Not bad . Just a minor backfire here and there . That tells me gas is getting into the exhaust. Any ideas? I also noticed backfires when I downshift and Brake that way.

I may change the rotor and rotor cap as well in case one of the cylinders is not firing properly.
The only other thing I noticed is a slight hesitation when accelerating in first gear.

That sounds like a valve timing issue to me... Better check your timing and maybe even check for bent pushrods as well... I work on air coolers (albeit small engines... up to around 36 hp) They do stuff like that under certain conditions... one is timing and bent pushrods... burned vales will cause it too. and maybe a choke issue... but that would usually cause a lot of black smoke as well... so if it's not smoking I don't think choke or such. air filter clogged etc...

Any leaks in the exhaust can contribute to that, carbs can't cut fuel on decel like EFI

Have you done a capacitance check on your plug wires and high tension wire from the coil to the dist.? We had a similar problem in our group where power was down and other "funny" things was happening to a well built 1835. Did a check on the ignition set and found out that the high tension wire was going bad fast. The "used" replacement we checked and it was totally dead. Changed the high tension lead and the engine was back up to normal.

Take a volt/OHM meter and use it to check the full length of each wire. The meter's needle should "peg" itself as soon as the connection is made. If the needle doesn't go all the way over (meaning no resistance) replace the wire then recheck the new one. (https://itstillworks.com/measure-capaci ... 64791.html)

Backfiring especially out of the muffler is usually caused by fuel getting into the muffler or a late/slow firing plug then firing. Wiring and ground problems can also be involved but the first and cheapest thing to do it check the plug wires and high tension lead. Also take a peek at the cap and rotor for damage of the cap being cracked. An old style problem but still an easy check.

Do the easy stuff first as it is usually the easy stuff to go wrong .

Lee

yes agree. what about plug gapping? I just changed plugs & wires, but, didn't gap the plugs as I thought the factory had set them.

i'll check wire resistance. the bug runs great after I get into 2nd gear. I didn't have this problem with the previous plugs/wireset.