What does a good core bug engine look like

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Ramjetr
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2015 4:23 pm

What does a good core bug engine look like

Post by Ramjetr »

Hi,

I picked up a 66 bug that had a engine with it. I'm new to vw bugs. the engine jugs look rusty and has some chips out of the case along the back near the starter... Looks like aluminum with some corrosion pitting damage. I am looking either to rebuild this one or get a another long block and start all over. With this type of damage would you think I could use it for a core or is this thing trashed"? I am thinking its trashed. Can anyone tell me what can be used as a good core engine?

Thanks

Roger
Ol'fogasaurus
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Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm

Re: What does a good core bug engine look like

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

Rodger, can you post some pictures.

It would be easier to talk about with pictures of what you have and where the problems are you are taking about. Also, under the stand for the generator are the numbers for the case which would also give a lot of information.

Lee
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Marc
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Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am

Re: What does a good core bug engine look like

Post by Marc »

On an original 1966 case, the numbers stamped into the case which Lee mentioned will be preceded by the letter "F". Also look for the presence of a "factory exchange" stamp (a small VW logo encircled by two arrows) - that could mean it's a newer case that was built as a 1300 for the replacement market, and other physical characteristics such as the size of the oil pump studs will give clues of its vintage.
`66 was the only year that the 1300cc engine was offered in the US market, also the last year of 109-tooth ("6 volt) flywheels and 180mm diameter clutches here...if you have a 200mm clutch and/or a 130-tooth flywheel, it's not the original. Most `66 engines had a small-diameter 6V generator (stamped "7V" at the fanhousing end) with the voltage regulator mounted on top, but some had a larger-diameter model with remote regulator. 12V Bug generators are all the large-diameter/remote regulator style, and are stamped "14V".

One basic check you can perform is to grasp the flywheel or crank pulley and push/pull it firmly...it should only move a barely-perceptible amount (say, .005"). If there's gross movement, more often than not the case has heavy wear in its main-bearing bore(s) - doesn't necessarily mean that the case is beyond use after some remachining, but it's not a good sign.

Pointless to go into too much more detail until we see what it is....but for now, you can also see what's cast into the left side of the carburetor float bowl (for instance, "30PICT-1) and stamped into the body of the distributor - it's not unusual for those to have been changed sometime in 50 years, may as well know what you've got.

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