Advice about clutch replacement parts

[zenith10]

Hi folks, Major damage inside bell housing in my 1964 bug. I need to replace everything (except maybe the flywheel and friction plate). While I'm at it-new fork bushings, engine and transmission seals, etc. So many options out there, and many parts breakdown horror stories. I would like to get very good parts. Don't need the most expensive, but good reliable parts that shouldn't come apart, or cause other disasters after a short time. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. The busted pressure plate was the type with three arms, but I see that the multi-fingered type (diaphragm type?) is also offered. Also, I think I want a spring type friction plate rather than rigid-any thoughts. I read somewhere that certain early year van clutches can be interchanged and are a bit beefier.
Thanks in advance for your time and consideration-I'll be looking for you.

[ps2375]

Power level, type of usage?

[zenith10]

Thanks, daily driver 1200 single port, swing axle. No racing or off road

[ps2375]

Stock replacement parts should be fine. PP possibly failed due to fatigue, how old was it?

[zenith10]

Thanks again. Can you tell me what are, and where do I get "stock" parts for this?

[ps2375]

Any decent import part place, or any of the various online part sellers will have "stock" replacement parts. You certainly won't need anything "HD" or "performance" rated. All most of those will do is give you a heavier clutch pedal and less slip in clutch take-up(slip) at launch.

[Marc]

Typical scenario is that the release bearing cradles on the cross-shaft arms get worn enough that the springclips fall out; eventually the release bearing comes out of place, and the next time you step on the pedal with the engine running the naked arms contact the whirling release levers on the clutch cover and carnage ensues.

I agree that you shouldn't need anything more "heavy-duty" than original-equipment quality parts for a stock 1200...but if you find that the flywheel must be replaced, this would be the time to consider upgrading to 200mm clutch components (they offer greater strength without the added pedal pressure of the "HD 180" parts.)
Or, if you've converted everything else in the car to 12v, here's the chance to finish that job.
Regardless of which flywheel you run, be sure that the crankshaft endplay gets set properly.
1200 glandnuts are slightly shorter than those found in later engines. Not all 1200 crankshafts are threaded deeply enough to allow the use of the later/beefier glandnut. If you change it for a longer one, check that it can be run in by hand without the washer in place without the threads bottoming out.

Spring-center clutch discs provide a little cushioning between engine and trans, which can reduce the incidence of clutch chatter. However the added mass actually makes the synchros have to work harder, and breakage has occurred (I've never seen a 1200 break one, though). You can make a case for either style disc; personally I'd be disinclined to spend much extra for one in this application.

[zenith10]

Thanks to ps2375 and marc for your info. Learning something all the time. I would like to get some comments on specific recommended brands as well as those that are not recommended for whatever reasons. There are many options and price differences, and wariness about where such parts are manufactured. For example, I've read about throwout forks that are prone to failure, and there are others that are thought to be without problems. So how do I know which is which? There are several options but product descriptions don't really tell about materials, where manufactured, etc. This is also the type information I'm looking for.
Thanks All