66 Beetle Electical issue

[Naughtrick]

I picked up the 66 this week, and was told the only issue was a faulty fuel pump. First thing I find is the green dash light illuminates when the key switch is turned on, but the red light doesn't. Bulb and fuse check out OK. I checked wire #61 from the voltage regulator and have zero volts with switch on.
Any suggestions?

[Marc]

Bear in mind that along with the turn-signal pilot lamp the warning lights have power (from the ignition switch Term 15) to their shells when the key is on, and require a ground signal in order to come on. When there's no oil pressure, the sender's contacts are closed so the engine case ground is passed to the oil pressure warning lamp (at ~4½ PSI the contacts open and the light goes out).
Term 61 at the regulator will have power when the generator's putting out, so there's no difference in potential across the charging system warning lamp bulb (it has roughly the same voltage on both sides so there's not enough current flow through it to heat the element up to the point where it glows visibly); when the generator's NOT charging (and the key is on) a current path exists to ground through the regulator/generator which allows the light to glow.
If you have the engine running at an RPM above the regulator's "cut-in" speed (say, ~1000RPM on your `66) and switch the key off, the generator's still putting out as the engine rolls to a stop but the power's removed from the warning lamp's shell so the light will again come on briefly due to current flowing in the opposite direction.

Disconnect the wire from Term 61 on the regulator and touch it to ground with the key on. If the light doesn't come on, the bulb's bad (or loose, or there's a wiring issue). If it does, but doesn't when the wire's connected to the regulator with the key on, you may have a faulty regulator.

[ainokea]

I think Marc nailed it when he said the regulator may be faulty. No current at #61 indicates the internal contacts are not closing. A new regulator may be the fix for your problem.

Ainokea

[Naughtrick]

Thanks for the replies. I am waiting for a new regulator. In the meantime, I have removed the generator for a rebuild.

[Marc]

Just curious, is this an early `66 with small-diameter generator (regulator mounted atop it) or a late one with the large-diameter generator and regulator mounted under the back seat?

[Naughtrick]

It is the early 66 with the regulator on the genny. By the code # it looks to be a 1200cc.

[Marc]

Although it was offered in other markets well into the `70s, the last year of the 1200 in the US was 1965. A `66 should have a 1300 (F-code). What's the full engine ID number?

[Naughtrick]

I am in Canada. The engine # is 9243836.

[Marc]

I'm fairly certain that by the `66 model year ALL 1200s had adopted the "D" letter prefix. Your number places the production date at around December of 1964, which predates the `66 production year by 8-9 months.
Late (perhaps all) 9xxxxxxxxx cases had insert cam bearings like the "D" blocks - if you've got the shroud off, examine the width of the raised ridge in the casting at the parting line. If it's the same width all along the top seam => no cam bearings; if the part hidden under the shroud is wider, it's got 'em...at least that's been the "case" in every one I've encountered.

[Naughtrick]

I'll check when I get a chance.
The chassis code is 116889839 which appears to be from around April 66.
I have ordered the paperwork from the AutoMuseum to see if the engine is original.
Rick

[Marc]

I'd expect the original engine ID was D008xxxx. Late 9-million motors and "D" series share the best 1200 heads ever made (the bosses under the top head nuts looked like those of the 13/15/1600 heads, and the head studs were slightly longer than on earlier 1200s - these are the ones most in demand for Formula Vee engines), 1.1:1 rocker arms (look for the two parallel lines on the side of each rocker, and the late-style support blocks instead of the early cubical ones - the pushrods are ever-so-slightly longer than those of the earlier 40HP as well), and the aforementioned cam bearings. If your engine has those three characteristics, it's essentially identical to the `66 "D" motor, even if it's not the one the car left the factory with.

[rrb6699]

I'll check when I get a chance.
The chassis code is 116889839 which appears to be from around April 66.
I have ordered the paperwork from the AutoMuseum to see if the engine is original.
Rick

AutoMuseum? what is that?

rr