New cooler and hoover bit
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New cooler and hoover bit
Hard to believe that flimsy bit of metal is so important. I noticed the shroud even has a notch to accommodate a hoover bit.
And I noticed the new cooler seems flimsy compared to the original. Perhaps that's the added weight from four decades of metal bits collecting inside?
kevin
And I noticed the new cooler seems flimsy compared to the original. Perhaps that's the added weight from four decades of metal bits collecting inside?
kevin
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
Did you buy an Empi or VW brand cooler? The empi are thinner and lighter for sure.
Use weather stripping around the cooler in addition to the hoover bit to 100% seal the cooler. You don't want any pressure leaks.
Use weather stripping around the cooler in addition to the hoover bit to 100% seal the cooler. You don't want any pressure leaks.
Steve
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
I don't know what brand either are. I got them from a VW parts store in Salt Lake City. Now the biggest problem is the cooler doesn't fit. I had to take off the carb and manifolds. Then take the generator off the shroud. Putting the empty shroud back on I somehow lost the keeper that keeps the thermo rod connected to the flaps. There's no groove so maybe there was never a keeper.
http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... 5b807b.jpg
kevin
http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... 5b807b.jpg
kevin
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
The retaining thingy is just a springclip (like a miniature version of what holds the wheels on a kid's wagon) and doesn't use a groove. You might be able to find one that fits at a hardware store - I've seen them drilled for a tiny cotterpin & washer, too, but to be honest it's not really that vital. If you simply bend the end of the link rod slightly, so it's a degree or too more acute than a right-angle, it'll stay in place without the clip.
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
Thanks, I found the original springclip on the floor, after running to Ace Hardware and buying several. So the shroud doesn't fit perfectly I assume because of hitting the top of the cooler. Also if I push it down further the fan rubs something. Adjusting the generator seems to make it worse unless I loosen the big strap that wraps around the gen and pedestal. Next step is adding washers to better center the fan. It wobbles when I spin it by hand so I probably need buy a new one.
kevin
kevin
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
I like to get the fan and alternator adjusted and spinning clear in the shroud on the work bench. Then bolt the whole shittery loosely down with the strap. Slowly tighten up the screws on the outside of the shroud that pinch the head tins. Finish tightening the strap. Test spin the fan checking for rubbing during the process.
Steve
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
I spent half the day fiddling with the cooler and shroud. Finally no rubbing until I tighten the big generator strap. Then the rub is back. The fan is 35mm wide. I have a 30mm fan also. What if I use that? Any idea how much it would affect the cooling? The two fans have the same diameter.
TIA,
kevin
TIA,
kevin
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
It's the original 1974 doghouse shroud and stand. I'm pretty sure the problem is where the fan bolts to the hub. Where the fan attaches to the hub is worn too thin to prevent flex and the hub is no longer oblong, it's round. I guess it's another trip to Salt Lake City this weekend. We've never met but the store owner recognizes my voice now: "You the guy from Wyoming, right?"
The shroud will be the only original part left on this engine.
kevin
The shroud will be the only original part left on this engine.
kevin
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... fa8ed0.jpg
Three years ago my dad the mechanic traded me two 1600cc blocks for a type-4. I rebuilt one block including line-boring, new AA p/c's rebuilt heads. And had constant vapor lock. So I moved everything over to the second block. And still had vapor lock. Then got a new oil cooler and hoover bit. The new cooler didn't fit too well; Sliding the shroud over the dog house I could hear scraping. Removing the shroud I could see scrapes and metal flakes from the cooler edges.
So now I'm waiting for the new 35mm fan and hub to arrive. I determined the old fan was worn out. I watched Jack Kessel's video on removing the generator with the engine still in the car. Last year I replaced the generator that way. Since I was working blind I wonder if I didn't get the fan in correctly and that damaged something. The photo shows the hub has damage.
Regardless, the shroud will be the only part original to the car once the new fan is in.
kevin
Three years ago my dad the mechanic traded me two 1600cc blocks for a type-4. I rebuilt one block including line-boring, new AA p/c's rebuilt heads. And had constant vapor lock. So I moved everything over to the second block. And still had vapor lock. Then got a new oil cooler and hoover bit. The new cooler didn't fit too well; Sliding the shroud over the dog house I could hear scraping. Removing the shroud I could see scrapes and metal flakes from the cooler edges.
So now I'm waiting for the new 35mm fan and hub to arrive. I determined the old fan was worn out. I watched Jack Kessel's video on removing the generator with the engine still in the car. Last year I replaced the generator that way. Since I was working blind I wonder if I didn't get the fan in correctly and that damaged something. The photo shows the hub has damage.
Regardless, the shroud will be the only part original to the car once the new fan is in.
kevin
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
So I got the new 35mm fan to go along with the new hub. The kit came the hub, two wavy washers and a new nut. I assume these are spring washers but I don't know why I need two. Online videos show him putting one flat washer on the hub, then the fan, then the spring washer then the nut. Any ideas?
TIA,
kevin
TIA,
kevin
- Marc
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
1 thick Belleville (wavy) spring washer is used under the nut, installed concave side out. Early hubs had a small flange and a thick flat washer was installed before the fan, but the late-style hub with a large flange doesn't need it. Typically, 2 or 3 shims (same as gen pulley shims) are in the stack, located as needed to "center" the fan in the shroud....the spec is 2mm clearance from the fan to the shroud on the rear (towards the bumper) side.
Resist the temptation to tighten the bejeezus out of that nut, it's the same wrench size as the gland nut but the threads on the shaft are the limiting factor...~45lb-ft is plenty.
Not relevant for you but thrown in here for the benefit of future searchers of this topic:
Buses and Things with the longer 38A generator use a different hub that has its flange all the way to the rear (towards the generator/bumper) - those use two thick flat washers (plus any shims necessary for clearance) between the flange and the fan. They require that the two large pieces of sheetmetal be shaped differently, with a recessed center, and a special obsolete pulley with a cast-iron front half as well. If used with a normal 12V pulley the belt will be misaligned unless the crankshaft pulley is shimmed out.
Resist the temptation to tighten the bejeezus out of that nut, it's the same wrench size as the gland nut but the threads on the shaft are the limiting factor...~45lb-ft is plenty.
Not relevant for you but thrown in here for the benefit of future searchers of this topic:
Buses and Things with the longer 38A generator use a different hub that has its flange all the way to the rear (towards the generator/bumper) - those use two thick flat washers (plus any shims necessary for clearance) between the flange and the fan. They require that the two large pieces of sheetmetal be shaped differently, with a recessed center, and a special obsolete pulley with a cast-iron front half as well. If used with a normal 12V pulley the belt will be misaligned unless the crankshaft pulley is shimmed out.
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
What worked for me was I put the first wavy washer on--it's a lot flatter than the other one--then the fan then the second spring washer then the nut. With the two heavy washers I had to hold the second washer while screwing the nut in.
The root problem was I forgot about a stud that's sorta buried under the oil cooler. There are three studs that mount the cooler. I didn't bolt all three studs and consequently the cooler was tilted like the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
After straightening the cooler I finally got the fan to spin without rubbing.
kevin
The root problem was I forgot about a stud that's sorta buried under the oil cooler. There are three studs that mount the cooler. I didn't bolt all three studs and consequently the cooler was tilted like the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
After straightening the cooler I finally got the fan to spin without rubbing.
kevin
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
Okay the engine is in and it starts fine. BUT...the red generator light stays on when the engine is running. I double checked all the wires and found nothing disconnected. I know nothing about electricity. The red light staying on means the generator is not charging? Any other common reason why the red light might stay on? This is a generator I bought new two years ago but never needed so it's been on a shelf in the garage. It was working when I used it last year. Since the fan and hub are new I decided to use the newer generator. I spent days fiddling with the shims and fan hub while the engine was out. I didn't drop it but how do I tell whether it works? I bought a voltmeter at Ace Hardware.
TIA,
kevin
TIA,
kevin
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Re: New cooler and hoover bit
The new generator may need polarizing. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=337164
Steve
My Baja Build
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