44 IDF Issue

[Brandymb]

Hello all,
Im brand new to this place and happy to "meet" you all. I have a '67 Beetle with a 2332cc motor. Has a single 44 IDF carb going to a split manifold to dual port heads. What my problem is, is this. The carb is giving me fits. I can get the motor to idle, but when I move the gas, it gasps and dies. I have gone through the Weber recommended idle setup, checked for vac leaks stc. Have a new fuel filter and lines also. What is funny is, if I just slightly unscrew the plug ovr the left tube idle jet, the car comes alive. only less than a quarter turn on the plug. Screw it back in and it runs like crap again. I removed the jet and blew it out, not plugged as I could see.
Any suggestions or help I would greatly appreciate. Hope to restore the car over the winter and have a nice little screamer when the weather changes back.
Mark

[madmike]

I just looked on one of my 44's and can't find the Plug yur talking about unless it's the tube thats sticking out which is for vacume for the dizzy

[Brandymb]

There are two brass screw plugs under which sits the idle jets, from what my research seems to indicate. They're up near the top, one on either side of the fuel inlet. If I just slightly loosen the left one, the motor really wakes up.

[madmike]

I think your talking about the idle jet holders can u send me a pic via E-mail [email protected]

[sideshow]

Can you point to the plug of interest?

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/i ... ntrols.htm

[Brandymb]

Sideshow: I dont know how to upload an image, but i would point to the screw that is called IDLE JET on the left side. If I unscrew that screwcap just a little, the motor really wakes up, the big flat spot is gone. I found the jets to be marked as .70mm on the idle jets and 1.20mm on the mains (on the ends of the two tall tubes on the top of the carb). I know very little about Webers. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also when trying to tune it as best I can, the idle mixture screws are open about 1.5 – 1.75 turns.
Mark

[sideshow]

You have classic idle jet clogged symptoms, take both idle jets out and use lung pressure to flow check the small hole (it should measure near .70mm).

What is also worth doing is using aerosol carb cleaner and flush that passage way. One should be able to remove the mixture screw and blast cleaner into the jet, getting about the same "flow" compared to the other side. Also if you take the top cover off, the same can be done with the air feed hole to that passage.

[Airhedd]

My experience with webers is that 80% of how the car runs revolves around proper idle jet size. One way to tell if your idle jet is sufficient is where your mixture screw is happy at an idle. Typically, 1 1/2 turns out from bottom is "normal". turn the screw in until the engine starts to bog, then out until it bogs again, find a spot somewhere in between that sounds/feels good. you can use a vacuum gauge, but you'll feel/hear when it's right. If you can screw it in all the way, something else is wrong. Too many turns in, get smaller idle jets, if you have to back them way out get bigger ones. My second thought is your motor is HUGE for 1 44 idf and you just might be way lean in which case you'll need a handful of jets, (expensive) or my trick is a set of jet files. Mine are 30 years old so I don't know where you can get them but you can use #'d drill bits as well. example, a #55 drill bit equals about a 132 main jet. Also, don't assume that the carb was assembled correctly, break them down and make sure everything is correct. I just installed a set of ICT34s on a customers squareback, and in my pre install set up here is what I found: one 50 idle jet one one carb and a 52 on the other, a 160 air correction jet on one and a 165 on the other, and one side was MISSING the emulsion tube!! Must have been Friday at 4:45 when those went into the box. You can go to weber carbs direct, to technical, then to carb schematics to see what the carb is SUPPOSED to come with. By the way, check your compression. No vacuum in one hole can do amazing things, always check everything and never assume anything! Hope this helped. Oh yeah make sure you have good gas in it, bad gas can make you bang your head against the wall.

[Brandymb]

Well, I stopped off to see the fella I bought the car from and he gave me the original motor, an electronic ignition system and a Weber jet kit. Havent gone thru it yet, but there are a lot of jets in there. So I can experiment. He said he also has emulsion tubes somewhere which he'll give me when he finds them.
Mark

[madmike]

Mark,By the time you get the singel weber figered out your going to be somewhat of an expert on Webers Then to really benafit all the potental of the 2332 go fine another 44 for a Dual set up,Believe me ther WAY easyer to dial in then the singles Is the Butterfly plate drilled on your single? (can u see a small hole?) those are common on single set ups for better idle,Madmike

[Dale M.]

Mark,By the time you get the singel weber figered out your going to be somewhat of an expert on Webers :lol: Then to really benafit all the potental of the 2332 go fine another 44 for a Dual set up,Believe me ther WAY easyer to dial in then the singles 8) 8) Is the Butterfly plate drilled on your single? (can u see a small hole?) those are common on single set ups for better idle,Madmike

Ditto.... Duals for your driving pleasure - Forever....

And if backing out holder for idle jet improves run condition as other have said, its a clogged idle jet, take it out and clean it and hold it up to bright light and you will see a pin point of light through jet if its clean....

Dale

[Brandymb]

Well, progress report. I took out the idle jets and blew them out. I could see thru them before i did. And I blew carb cleaner into the holes. Put it all back together, and it started right up and ran like a champ. Great power! Drove around for a while and then it started to lose it again, acting like it was starving for fuel. Limped back to my shop, then put a fuel pressure gage on it: 3.6 psi, so it's getting gas. Then pulled out the left barrel idle jet, and there was a sliver of red material sticking out the jet hole. Cleaned it up and it ran better again.

Im to the conclusion that the carb has some kind of crap in it. I have a new fuel filter in line, so its not coming from the tank. Im gonna pull the carb and take it apart and clean it all up. Car had been sitting for who knows how long. May have crapped up during that time. More to follow..

Mark

[Dale M.]

A lot of the time its not a fuel filter issue, its a air filter issue..... You have to consider that there is a air passage on floor of air filter that goes directly into the fuel/air passage for idle jet circuit....If you have air filters that let crud through and it moves around floor of filter and drops into passage, you will always have a dirty idle jet problem.... One solution is 'Jet Doctors' from CB Performance, another solution is better quality filter elements that seal to upper and lower filter plates better, another problem may be if you have thin steel plates for filters they may warp or distort and let dirt through and into idle jet passage, a solution here is maybe better quality cast aluminum filter plates (if you don't have them) that seal to carb top and filter elements better...

Dale

[Piledriver]

K&N sell air filter seal "grease" for this reason--- I have never seen it sold retail, but it's available online.
It's basically the sticky thick silicone grease for urethane bushings, but ANY grease will improve the seal.

Any garbage that gets by the filters by any means heads directly into the idle jets the way the carb is designed.


I thought UNI made a filter for Webers but maybe they are just pre-filter wraps.

Here's one option... http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewpr ... 1041871033
Each kit is a pair of filters--- Good price, I'll be ordering some of these RFN for a set of ITBs.
You will need another filter of some sort over the idle circuit/bowl breather area, haven't looked at it seriously as I yanked the webers years ago.
It needs a cover of some sort vented to a breather/filter to keep water/crap out of the bowls and jets.
(Needs to be removable for jet stack access)

Gauze air filters are lousy air filters. They flow well, but so does everything else.
The 2 stage Uni filters actually filter as well as or better than a paper filter.

Your rings will thank you.

[Brandymb]

Took the carb off today and disassembled it, cleaned everything out. Put it back together and now car runs good. Hopin', hopin'..
Mark