Equlizer pulleys

[Tuckeroo]

IF I stroke the motor 74mm run 92s, lighten the flywheel have the crank flywheel, and clutch balanced, would I bennifit from adding a equlizer pulley
Daily driver, some hwy.
I just hear some stories of twisting the crank.

[Jim Ed]

would I bennifit from adding a equlizer pulley

Is that saying the same as,
...would I benefit from adding an equalizer pulley?

I think it is for non stock engines.
I am not sure. I have never used one. Ask Bruce2.

Here is a link that describes it:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 26-105-260

For racing and performance applications- the extra weight can help to reduce crankshaft twisting and aid in leaving the starting line by reducing engine bog.

So, that tells me that you will need this if you plan on jack rabbit starts.

[Bruce2]

For racing and performance applications- the extra weight can help to reduce crankshaft twisting and aid in leaving the starting line by reducing engine bog.

So, that tells me that you will need this if you plan on jack rabbit starts.

No, in that description they are talking about a drag racing start with drag slicks. Extra inertia helps spin the tires. This does not apply to street tires since they have nowhere near the grip of a slick.

The equalizer pulley is a gimmick that will do nothing for your engine. Spend your money on something that will make more power or get better mileage.

[Jim Ed]

How about a counter weighted crankshaft?
Would it help?

[Bruce2]

How about a counter weighted crankshaft?
Would it help?

Much more! That's where you should spend your money.

If you are staying with a stock stroke, I recommend getting a DMS or DPR welded crank instead of the cheaply available one piece China cranks. That way you are relying on German forged steel vs. China mystery metal.

[jrandy]

I would not call an equalizer pulley a gimmick.
If you want and/or need to add mass to the rotating assembly a heavy pulley is a good way to do it.

I ran an 84mm flanged crankshaft engine with a very light flywheel in my old baja bug and it was a buzzy, rattling beast until I installed a 3.5lb equalizer pulley.

[Lotrat]

Why would someone lighten a flywheel and then add an equalizer pulley?

[jrandy]

With my combination of parts the flywheel was already lightened, and since it was a 6V 200mm with a 12v ring gear modified to fit a first-run Scat flanged crank it was basically not replacable for any reasonable price.

Why would anybody run a full circle crank?
Why would anybody run a full weight crank AND a heavy pulley?

Because- there are many applications for these engines as well as many choices.
If you already have the investment in a lightened flywheel & clutch assembly & you want more crankshaft mass the heavy pulley will do the trick.

[sideshow]

I like the "Equalizer" style pulleys because they have the degree marks and unlike aluminum pulleys are not prone to cracking and wallowing out of the key way. Myself I don't think aluminum key ways would last long enough to wear out the belt groove.

I also like the stamped steel factory pulley after making my own TDC/BDC marks during assembly.

As far as the weight goes, I usually run the lighter version (Berg's Achiever) and the clone. In my truck I have a stock weight flywheel, german crank w/welded weights, and the heavy pulley, and while it doesn't rev particularity fast it does run well enough to be used for long drives and hauling.

[Bruce2]

I like the "Equalizer" style pulleys because ..... unlike aluminum pulleys are not prone to ...... wallowing out of the key way.

If the keyway is wearing out, you aren't tightening the bolt enough.
All the aluminum pulleys I use are tight on the key.

[sideshow]

I have at least two aluminum that are tight in the keyway and cracked. Both I personally bought new, neither AFAICT were loose. Cracking is especially common (damn near normal) on sand seal pulleys, and I have never had a five hole crack to the hole but I hear that is common also. They wallow without cracking, or crack without wallowing, often both. Maybe your sanding the ID is the trick, that is something I have never done.

Now steel on the other hand seems just a better material to make a hub out of. Last year on my first long road trip the pulley bolt fell out (it was an 3/8 ratchet drive bolt...bought in a moment of weakness cuz it wasn't EMPI...it was so bad it wouldn't thread up to any crank...needed to be tapped before use...but was sure handy during mockup...don't recall torquing it down during tin assembly). That bolt rubbed the timing ring off the pulley and no other damaged was noted.

A thousand miles later both the pulley and bolt were retired in favor of a new pulley (Berg was out of stock, so same brand was repurchased, but Berg bolt kit http://www.geneberg.com/product_info.ph ... cts_id=806 ). The pulley was tight on the crank, keyway was good, and believe it or not it came from EMPI and is still usable after thousands of miles of road and track use. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 13-33-1090

Aluminum pulleys are cheap enough to use (well once, maybe limited to parade speeds) and don't seem to fail catastrophically, but for me I only use them for protecting crankshafts in storage.

Steel pulleys rule!