Webber 44 IDF idle circuit??
- 1969bluebug
- Posts: 377
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2003 1:21 pm
Webber 44 IDF idle circuit??
Since I had my 44 IDFs on a 1915, 042 heads 009 dizzy, the #1 and #2 idle adjustment screws do nothing to the motor.
This has just been this way. I have tuned the car. It has electric ignition, petronix II with coil.
I have taken up the carbs and put new gaskets in.
So now with my new exhaust Kymco 1 5/8ths with a phat boy, I am getting alot of exhuast backfires on decelleration and some at high RPM's.
I have my fuel pressure set at 3.5 lbs.
I dont know how to adjust the float, since if the butterfly is closed and the idle screws are all the way in how is there gas still getting to that side of the motor?
Is there a good way to find an exhaust leak? Im pretty sure there is none.
Also I have a flat spot at around 45-50 in third if I stay steady on the gas, the car just seems to not fire correctly ( dont know if this is a flat spot) just sounds wierd from the exhaust. Not a constant groan.
So idle misture screws what would cause this?
And what is a flat spot sound like?, do all 009 dizzys have it?
thanks for your help
This has just been this way. I have tuned the car. It has electric ignition, petronix II with coil.
I have taken up the carbs and put new gaskets in.
So now with my new exhaust Kymco 1 5/8ths with a phat boy, I am getting alot of exhuast backfires on decelleration and some at high RPM's.
I have my fuel pressure set at 3.5 lbs.
I dont know how to adjust the float, since if the butterfly is closed and the idle screws are all the way in how is there gas still getting to that side of the motor?
Is there a good way to find an exhaust leak? Im pretty sure there is none.
Also I have a flat spot at around 45-50 in third if I stay steady on the gas, the car just seems to not fire correctly ( dont know if this is a flat spot) just sounds wierd from the exhaust. Not a constant groan.
So idle misture screws what would cause this?
And what is a flat spot sound like?, do all 009 dizzys have it?
thanks for your help
- Greg Ward
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2001 12:01 am
What are the idle,main and air corrector jet sizes now?
How many turns out are the idle mixture screws?
How many turns on the idle speed screws?
One idle screw more turns than another can have the effect at idle you are describing, because it is running on half an engine e.g, the 3,4 side.
If you can answer the other q's above,maybe can help you more.
How many turns out are the idle mixture screws?
How many turns on the idle speed screws?
One idle screw more turns than another can have the effect at idle you are describing, because it is running on half an engine e.g, the 3,4 side.
If you can answer the other q's above,maybe can help you more.
- 1969bluebug
- Posts: 377
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2003 1:21 pm
Here are the carb specs
F11
52.5 idle
140 main
200 air
The idle screws on 3&4 are about 2.5 to 3 turns out.
Speed screws on 3&4 are closed.
The idle screws on 1&2 are the same as 3&4
and speed screws are out a little maybe 1 full, to even out both carbs to match 3&4
When I synched them I had to let more air in since it was not pulling as hard as the left side...
So any ideas? I dont believe there is an intake leak and I can seem to find an exhaust leak by holding my foot over the muffler and listening for a hiss or anyting...and no black soot by the header connections on the heads. The slip joints were a bitch to get on so I also doubt they are leaking.
Any idea about my flat or weird sounding spot ?
F11
52.5 idle
140 main
200 air
The idle screws on 3&4 are about 2.5 to 3 turns out.
Speed screws on 3&4 are closed.
The idle screws on 1&2 are the same as 3&4
and speed screws are out a little maybe 1 full, to even out both carbs to match 3&4
When I synched them I had to let more air in since it was not pulling as hard as the left side...
So any ideas? I dont believe there is an intake leak and I can seem to find an exhaust leak by holding my foot over the muffler and listening for a hiss or anyting...and no black soot by the header connections on the heads. The slip joints were a bitch to get on so I also doubt they are leaking.
Any idea about my flat or weird sounding spot ?
- JEFF KYLE
- Posts: 732
- Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2001 12:01 am
Read this link to setup them correctly http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/i ... ntrols.htm ,but every time mine have acted like that the idles have had trash in them.You should be able to see lite thru them.I have a strand of small wire if it will not blow out to get it out.I solved the problem by getting new K&N filters..the problem was dirty air,not fuel.
Float settings are very important too!!
Float settings are very important too!!
- Greg Ward
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2001 12:01 am
Ok,
So you are saying that the idle speed screw on the 3,4 side is totally shut?
I'd suggest you start from scratch. Only take you ten minutes.
Disconnect the arms from the linkage, so that has no effect, put both idle speed screws at one turn (very important start) put all mixture screws at a base of 1.5 turns.
Connect your arms again and make sure both carbs are opening at the same time. Look at each throttle stop and make sure they open together, one ahead of the other, even a small amount is no good. If you have to, unlock the nuts on the arm and wind it till they open the same amount just off the throttle stop, tighten nuts on linkage arm again.
Now you have done all that you can begin to sync the carbs!!
Start the car and let it idle, if it is too high, reduce it by backing off the idle speed screws by the same amount each side.
Now with your fingers, turn #1 cyl idle mix screw out until the engine runs worse or changes note, then back in to where it runs fastest.
Repeat for other 3 cyls.
If after all 4 are done and the engine is idling too high, then reduce idle speed , again do both sides evenly.
Now take it for a drive and see if the 4500 miss is still there.
So you are saying that the idle speed screw on the 3,4 side is totally shut?
I'd suggest you start from scratch. Only take you ten minutes.
Disconnect the arms from the linkage, so that has no effect, put both idle speed screws at one turn (very important start) put all mixture screws at a base of 1.5 turns.
Connect your arms again and make sure both carbs are opening at the same time. Look at each throttle stop and make sure they open together, one ahead of the other, even a small amount is no good. If you have to, unlock the nuts on the arm and wind it till they open the same amount just off the throttle stop, tighten nuts on linkage arm again.
Now you have done all that you can begin to sync the carbs!!
Start the car and let it idle, if it is too high, reduce it by backing off the idle speed screws by the same amount each side.
Now with your fingers, turn #1 cyl idle mix screw out until the engine runs worse or changes note, then back in to where it runs fastest.
Repeat for other 3 cyls.
If after all 4 are done and the engine is idling too high, then reduce idle speed , again do both sides evenly.
Now take it for a drive and see if the 4500 miss is still there.
-
- Posts: 728
- Joined: Sun May 07, 2000 12:01 am
- 1969bluebug
- Posts: 377
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2003 1:21 pm
well to be honest I did start just as you said...
but when I got to 1,2 just trying it to get any form of change from
1 or 2 with the idle adjustment screws really did nothing..
I will start all over but for some reason I mean NO CHANGE AT ALL,
it doesnt seem to help or work.
Its getting dark here pretty early so hopefully i will have some time before dark to do this tomorrow
thanks for all the replies
but when I got to 1,2 just trying it to get any form of change from
1 or 2 with the idle adjustment screws really did nothing..
I will start all over but for some reason I mean NO CHANGE AT ALL,
it doesnt seem to help or work.
Its getting dark here pretty early so hopefully i will have some time before dark to do this tomorrow
thanks for all the replies
-
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2002 12:01 am
what is your maximum rpm?
what altitude will you be running at most of the time.
first first first.... check your floats since they determine the progression circuit.... 10-12mm from top and 28 to bottom
i ran your engine numbers and
if your running a 1915 at max 6000 rpm then 44 webers are correct.
you should be running about 36 venturies with 200 air correctors then you should be running 130 to 160 mains
if your idle jets are at 50 then you should be running just fine. turn them all the way in and then back out 1 1/2 turns. Find your lean best idle. sync up the carbs and if you still have backfire something is plugged. get out your cans of carb cleaner and the compressed air.
what altitude will you be running at most of the time.
first first first.... check your floats since they determine the progression circuit.... 10-12mm from top and 28 to bottom
i ran your engine numbers and
if your running a 1915 at max 6000 rpm then 44 webers are correct.
you should be running about 36 venturies with 200 air correctors then you should be running 130 to 160 mains
if your idle jets are at 50 then you should be running just fine. turn them all the way in and then back out 1 1/2 turns. Find your lean best idle. sync up the carbs and if you still have backfire something is plugged. get out your cans of carb cleaner and the compressed air.
Last edited by rocky point mex on Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- 1969bluebug
- Posts: 377
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2003 1:21 pm
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- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2002 12:01 am
- 1969bluebug
- Posts: 377
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2003 1:21 pm
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- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2002 12:01 am
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- Posts: 185
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2001 12:01 am
Idle mixture screws out 2.5 turns is way too much, they should be out about 1 to 1.5 turns. Make sure the idle air bypass screws are fully closed. Check the enrichment circuit to make sure the valves are seating fully closed. Check the idle air inlet bushings (brass, hole should be 115 with a Weber jet gauge) in the carburetor body top to make sure they aren't plugged up. Blow out all idle passages with compressed air to make sure they're clear.
When you set your float levels check the float needles and seats for sealing, and check the floats for leaks. A leaking float will sink in the float bowl and raise the float level, causing an over-rich condition.
Also check the fuel inlet on the carb top - clean the filter if necessary.
When you set your float levels check the float needles and seats for sealing, and check the floats for leaks. A leaking float will sink in the float bowl and raise the float level, causing an over-rich condition.
Also check the fuel inlet on the carb top - clean the filter if necessary.
- 1969bluebug
- Posts: 377
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2003 1:21 pm