im putting discs all around my bug what master should i use?
- Clatter
- Posts: 2034
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2002 1:01 am
Kuleinc,
Check to see that your rear flex hosess have not collapsed internally...
That one just got me a week or two ago.
They looked OK on the outside, completely blocked inside....
Check to see that your rear flex hosess have not collapsed internally...
That one just got me a week or two ago.
They looked OK on the outside, completely blocked inside....
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
- kuleinc
- Posts: 193
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:35 pm
The bolts are grade 8 3/8 bolts
They are not metric, the plates that the calipers bolt to were apparently drilled for US bolts, not metric, so they are grade 8 US.
Also, how important is it on late model dual piston gia calipers that those half shims be there, as I think they're making the brakes squeak like mad, and I took them out, and no squeaking, but a bit lower pedal....
They are not metric, the plates that the calipers bolt to were apparently drilled for US bolts, not metric, so they are grade 8 US.
Also, how important is it on late model dual piston gia calipers that those half shims be there, as I think they're making the brakes squeak like mad, and I took them out, and no squeaking, but a bit lower pedal....
1995 BMW 318ti with M3 Motor (Mine)
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
- kuleinc
- Posts: 193
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:35 pm
Awesome, car seems to be stopping pretty decent now. I'm not too thrilled with the low pedal due to disks, it goe shalf way to the floor under normal brakeing....
Would a porche M/C push more fluid and firm up such a soft pedal?
Would a porche M/C push more fluid and firm up such a soft pedal?
1995 BMW 318ti with M3 Motor (Mine)
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
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- Posts: 7087
- Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2001 1:01 am
If you use a MC with a bigger bore to deliver more fluid, your pedal effort goes up just as much.kuleinc wrote:Awesome, car seems to be stopping pretty decent now. I'm not too thrilled with the low pedal due to disks, it goe shalf way to the floor under normal brakeing....
Would a porche M/C push more fluid and firm up such a soft pedal?
- kuleinc
- Posts: 193
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:35 pm
The pedal effort is currently, zero, I can push it to the floor if I want, but I don't need to to stop...
I just don't like how disks feel with manual brakes I guess...
Used to it being so firm and solid with drums all around, but I got tired of there not being any stopping power at the bottom of hills. I have to drive up and down hills to get to work and school...
It stops great now, but the pedal is so soft, I dunno, maybe it will grow on me...
the first master was definitely bad.
I just don't like how disks feel with manual brakes I guess...
Used to it being so firm and solid with drums all around, but I got tired of there not being any stopping power at the bottom of hills. I have to drive up and down hills to get to work and school...
It stops great now, but the pedal is so soft, I dunno, maybe it will grow on me...
the first master was definitely bad.
1995 BMW 318ti with M3 Motor (Mine)
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
- FJCamper
- Moderator
- Posts: 2901
- Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:19 pm
Pedal feel
Hi Kuleinc,
Yes, 4-wheel non-power disks can feel different from drums or disk-drum. My advice comes from our experience. We have one 4-wheel disk racer and one disk-drum.
Pedal feel on drums comes from shoe travel. A brake adjustment made the pedal feel high and hard. The same was true of disk-drum.
Disks are "self-adjusting" but can have a different feel because the pads move back and forth a little with each brake application. You get a more positive pedal feel with a 19mm master cylinder. The larger cylinders have a softer feel.
A residual pressure valve for the rear brakes will help.
FJC
Yes, 4-wheel non-power disks can feel different from drums or disk-drum. My advice comes from our experience. We have one 4-wheel disk racer and one disk-drum.
Pedal feel on drums comes from shoe travel. A brake adjustment made the pedal feel high and hard. The same was true of disk-drum.
Disks are "self-adjusting" but can have a different feel because the pads move back and forth a little with each brake application. You get a more positive pedal feel with a 19mm master cylinder. The larger cylinders have a softer feel.
A residual pressure valve for the rear brakes will help.
FJC
- kuleinc
- Posts: 193
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:35 pm
even if I have rear drum? and if so, what size residual valve for the rear? I hear this also helps with the longevity of the wheel cylinders...
1995 BMW 318ti with M3 Motor (Mine)
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
- FJCamper
- Moderator
- Posts: 2901
- Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:19 pm
Residual valve
Hi -
The residual valve is for rear disks. You don't need it with rear drums.
the valve keeps the pads slightly touching the disk, so less pedal is necessary to apply the brakes.
FJC
The residual valve is for rear disks. You don't need it with rear drums.
the valve keeps the pads slightly touching the disk, so less pedal is necessary to apply the brakes.
FJC
- mlski67
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 3:48 pm
I have a prob with my 4 wheel disc breaks. when i drive my car and the launch it hard or drive it around the break light comes on and the breaks drag/ lock.. it builds break prex up and goes away after a few min of sitting . I thought the lines where getting hot re routed and wrapped still nothing i am running a duel master cyl from cb perf it has a little scew on the top not sure what it is says they are fro disc breaks.. it seem that mainly the back breaks are locking up. also my car is really low if that helps. any advice ? thanks
- kuleinc
- Posts: 193
- Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:35 pm
Check your pedal freeplay, it sounds like maybe the master cylinder isn't getting to the top of the travel...
1995 BMW 318ti with M3 Motor (Mine)
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
1994 BMW 325i Sedan (Hers)
1968 Baywindow Camper (Parts Bus)
1971 Westy Baywindow (EFI project...)
My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=137593
-
- Posts: 7087
- Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2001 1:01 am
First, you need to check your spell check so we can understand what the heck you're trying to say.mlski67 wrote:I have a prob with my 4 wheel disc breaks. when i drive my car and the launch it hard or drive it around the break light comes on and the breaks drag/ lock.. it builds break prex up and goes away after a few min of sitting . I thought the lines where getting hot re routed and wrapped still nothing i am running a duel master cyl from cb perf it has a little scew on the top not sure what it is says they are fro disc breaks.. it seem that mainly the back breaks are locking up. also my car is really low if that helps. any advice ? thanks
- mlski67
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 3:48 pm
well thanks for your help i do know my typing is bad and don really care to know that it is thanks for being a smart ass it must not be to bad the other guy understood me and gave me some helpful advice.. thanks for your waste of time commentBruce2 wrote:First, you need to check your spell check so we can understand what the heck you're trying to say.mlski67 wrote:I have a prob with my 4 wheel disc breaks. when i drive my car and the launch it hard or drive it around the break light comes on and the breaks drag/ lock.. it builds break prex up and goes away after a few min of sitting . I thought the lines where getting hot re routed and wrapped still nothing i am running a duel master cyl from cb perf it has a little scew on the top not sure what it is says they are fro disc breaks.. it seem that mainly the back breaks are locking up. also my car is really low if that helps. any advice ? thanks
- FJCamper
- Moderator
- Posts: 2901
- Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:19 pm
Rear lockup
Hi mlski67,
I don't know if you have parking brakes on your rear disks -- which could change my long distance diagnostic.
It sounds like for some reason, your brake master cylinder internal pressure relief valve is not bleeding down right and residual pressure is keeping the rear brakes applied.
The screw on the top of the master cylinder is for disassembly of the cylinder. It is a stop for the internal piston. If the screw has been loosened and retightened the piston travel has been affected, you could easily get pressure problems.
This is a lot of work, but your brakes are vital. Remove the master cylinder, and carefully disassemble it. You'll see how that screw works. It holds the piston in place.
Put it all back together, checking for full piston stroke.
This is very likely your problem. Not much else besides bad rear flex lines can impede pressure.
FJC
I don't know if you have parking brakes on your rear disks -- which could change my long distance diagnostic.
It sounds like for some reason, your brake master cylinder internal pressure relief valve is not bleeding down right and residual pressure is keeping the rear brakes applied.
The screw on the top of the master cylinder is for disassembly of the cylinder. It is a stop for the internal piston. If the screw has been loosened and retightened the piston travel has been affected, you could easily get pressure problems.
This is a lot of work, but your brakes are vital. Remove the master cylinder, and carefully disassemble it. You'll see how that screw works. It holds the piston in place.
Put it all back together, checking for full piston stroke.
This is very likely your problem. Not much else besides bad rear flex lines can impede pressure.
FJC
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- Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2001 1:01 am
Not being a smart-ass at all. Just pointing out your illegible typing style prevents people from understanding what's going on. The fact that you know your post is poorly written says you don't have any consideration for everyone attempting to read it.mlski67 wrote:well thanks for your help i do know my typing is bad and don really care to know that it is thanks for being a smart ass it must not be to bad the other guy understood me and gave me some helpful advice.. thanks for your waste of time commentBruce2 wrote:First, you need to check your spell check so we can understand what the heck you're trying to say.mlski67 wrote:I have a prob with my 4 wheel disc breaks. when i drive my car and the launch it hard or drive it around the break light comes on and the breaks drag/ lock.. it builds break prex up and goes away after a few min of sitting . I thought the lines where getting hot re routed and wrapped still nothing i am running a duel master cyl from cb perf it has a little scew on the top not sure what it is says they are fro disc breaks.. it seem that mainly the back breaks are locking up. also my car is really low if that helps. any advice ? thanks
Good luck with your problem.