How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Do you like to go fast? Well get out of that stocker and build a hipo motor for your VW. Come here to talk with others who like to drive fast.

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ToRy 70
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Location: Redondo Beach, CA

How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by ToRy 70 » Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:54 pm

Ok, so I finally was able to get my dragfast shifter to work correctly.

The problem of jumping into reverse seemed to go away when I used the stock shift plate, at least with the car not moving. When driving, it still jumped into reverse. Not only that, but it was next to impossible to find third gear driving. I'd sit there, rolling around for 10 seconds between the gears like an idiot until I'd lose so much speed I'd just shift back into second (or reverse :evil:)

Removing the plate helped find third gear, but the reverse problem wouldn't go away. But now FIRST was hard to find! I didn't want to sit at the stoplight dicking with it, I just want all my gears!

I did all the recommended things to help aid the shifting. Replaced the shift rod bushing (only a couple of years old, but what the heck) cleaned, polished and regreased the shift rod, and rebushed the cage at the trans coupler (the bushings were the original stock, but still in OK shape).

Still no gravy. Same problems as before. What do I do? I was ready to just slap the stocker back in.

I got tired of hearing,

"Dude, you should have gotten a Berg, man!"

No kidding. I'm sure I'd be very happy with a Berg, I haven't heard one bad thing about them. The problem is that Berg knows this too. So we end up with the Gucci of VW shifters, yours to own for only $250.

But what about the hapless people like me that are stuck with a hundred dollar shifter we can't use, and nobody wants? My folks got me this for my birthday, it would suck to throw it away. It seems really nice, and when it works, it works great!

So I lifted up the boot and started paying attention to the mechanism inside as I played with the shifter. A common fix that people do to these is bend the reverse lockout tab inward. I tried that, and it didn't really do anything, and now I understood why. The problem is that the tab is too short! Even standing straight up, the lockout pin (it looks like a crank dowel pin) only has to move up about 1/16" to clear the tab, and move into reverse! Bending won't help too much, as it will only make this distance shorter! That's why the shifter hops out into reverse so easily, whether you want it to or not. So why have the lockout handle raise almost a half inch? There's so much travel but it obviously isn't being used.

So I decided to make the tab taller. It's kinda in the guts of the shifter, and not easy to get at unless you feel like busting it apart. I finally decided to take a small bit of 70S-2 welding rod, 3/32" diameter, and weld it to the top of the tab. We use the 70S-2 to weld almost all the steel projects in the shop. It's very stiff stuff, and there were plenty of scraps in the bin. I figured the worst that could happen was that I'd end up with a crappy shifter. I had nothing to lose.

Image

It worked!

Now I actually have to lift the handle almost all the way to get into the reverse slot. No more hopping!

Now came the second problem, the finicky first and second gear. They would go if I would very softly try to locate them. If I tried to go all the way left, it would get stuck in neutral, and not move up or down for love or money. So I looked at it some more, and found the problem.

The whole reverse tab would actually tilt out of the way when pushed against! Remember, this tab is what the little dowel pin rides against to stay in the 1-2 slot. I just fixed it so the pin can't hop over anymore. But now, even with the slightest pressure pushing left on the shifter, the whole tab would bend over and the shifter would get stuck in between slots!

So I took it off again, and welded the tab to the plate from the inside. Now it's not going anywhere!

Image

So I put it back in, and now it works. FLAWLESSLY. I was so happy. What I thought was a piece of crap now feels like it was made by a swiss watchmaker.

You're thinking, "I shouldn't have to mess with it out of the box. For a hundred dollars, it should just drop in and go." You're right. But I didn't want to just throw this away after all this money was spent. I didn't want to put the stocker back in, and I wasn't going to throw another wad of cash at a Berg either.

So all it took to make it work was a bit of tweaking. I guess you could look at it this way... a Schadek is the best oil pump for the VW, but they don't come blueprinted!

Stoked. 8)

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Fastorq
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Post by Fastorq » Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:08 pm

Good post .. have copied it to check on my race buggy which is having similar problems.

Regds
David
10.89 @ 125mph

Scottish DKP
Damp Klimate Panzers

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gerico
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Post by gerico » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:48 pm

I just welded my Scat shifter per these recommendations. Do it! You won't believe the difference it makes.

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ToRy 70
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Location: Redondo Beach, CA

Post by ToRy 70 » Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:34 am

Cool, glad it helped!

Chaos
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Post by Chaos » Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:13 pm

Very nice.

If any issues happen with mine, I will try these tips for sure!!!

r1cpowdercoating
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:37 pm

Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by r1cpowdercoating » Fri Apr 01, 2011 6:34 pm

just went through the same deal with mine. i done some bending on the tab. I am goint to pull it back out and weld it up since I will be using it for racing.

Ron

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so67vw
Posts: 95
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2004 5:24 pm

Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by so67vw » Mon May 16, 2011 2:01 pm

I have an easier fix or yah... Real simple....

Toss it and buy a New BugPack shifter... Better shifter by far.... I'll never go back to a DragMiss ever again...

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ToRy 70
Posts: 1336
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:00 pm
Location: Redondo Beach, CA

Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by ToRy 70 » Sun May 29, 2011 4:39 am

cool story bro. :D

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56bugdan
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 3:12 pm
Location: New Jersey

Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by 56bugdan » Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:31 am

Great Info! Thanks for the post and pics. Hell, Mine is still in the box (for the last 3 years) and I plan on doing the mods before I put it on!

BugmanJamaica2012
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2012 2:35 pm

Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by BugmanJamaica2012 » Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:14 am

Does second gear and reverse feel like its in the same location???? thats how mine feels...

Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:07 pm

Since the pictures are missing and I had copied this for work on my shifter I photoshopped the pictures a bit and added them in place. Thanks ToRy 70

Lee


"Ok, so I finally was able to get my dragfast shifter to work correctly.

The problem of jumping into reverse seemed to go away when I used the stock shift plate, at least with the car not moving. When driving, it still jumped into reverse. Not only that, but it was next to impossible to find third gear driving. I'd sit there, rolling around for 10 seconds between the gears like an idiot until I'd lose so much speed I'd just shift back into second (or reverse )

Removing the plate helped find third gear, but the reverse problem wouldn't go away. But now FIRST was hard to find! I didn't want to sit at the stoplight dicking with it, I just want all my gears!

I did all the recommended things to help aid the shifting. Replaced the shift rod bushing (only a couple of years old, but what the heck) cleaned, polished and regreased the shift rod, and rebushed the cage at the trans coupler (the bushings were the original stock, but still in OK shape).

Still no gravy. Same problems as before. What do I do? I was ready to just slap the stocker back in.

I got tired of hearing,

"Dude, you should have gotten a Berg, man!"

No kidding. I'm sure I'd be very happy with a Berg, I haven't heard one bad thing about them. The problem is that Berg knows this too. So we end up with the Gucci of VW shifters, yours to own for only $250.

But what about the hapless people like me that are stuck with a hundred dollar shifter we can't use, and nobody wants? My folks got me this for my birthday, it would suck to throw it away. It seems really nice, and when it works, it works great!

So I lifted up the boot and started paying attention to the mechanism inside as I played with the shifter. A common fix that people do to these is bend the reverse lockout tab inward. I tried that, and it didn't really do anything, and now I understood why. The problem is that the tab is too short! Even standing straight up, the lockout pin (it looks like a crank dowel pin) only has to move up about 1/16" to clear the tab, and move into reverse! Bending won't help too much, as it will only make this distance shorter! That's why the shifter hops out into reverse so easily, whether you want it to or not. So why have the lockout handle raise almost a half inch? There's so much travel but it obviously isn't being used.

So I decided to make the tab taller. It's kinda in the guts of the shifter, and not easy to get at unless you feel like busting it apart. I finally decided to take a small bit of 70S-2 welding rod, 3/32" diameter, and weld it to the top of the tab. We use the 70S-2 to weld almost all the steel projects in the shop. It's very stiff stuff, and there were plenty of scraps in the bin. I figured the worst that could happen was that I'd end up with a crappy shifter. I had nothing to lose.

Image

It worked!

Now I actually have to lift the handle almost all the way to get into the reverse slot. No more hopping!

Now came the second problem, the finicky first and second gear. They would go if I would very softly try to locate them. If I tried to go all the way left, it would get stuck in neutral, and not move up or down for love or money. So I looked at it some more, and found the problem.

The whole reverse tab would actually tilt out of the way when pushed against! Remember, this tab is what the little dowel pin rides against to stay in the 1-2 slot. I just fixed it so the pin can't hop over anymore. But now, even with the slightest pressure pushing left on the shifter, the whole tab would bend over and the shifter would get stuck in between slots!

So I took it off again, and welded the tab to the plate from the inside. Now it's not going anywhere!

Image
So I put it back in, and now it works. FLAWLESSLY. I was so happy. What I thought was a piece of crap now feels like it was made by a swiss watchmaker.

You're thinking, "I shouldn't have to mess with it out of the box. For a hundred dollars, it should just drop in and go." You're right. But I didn't want to just throw this away after all this money was spent. I didn't want to put the stocker back in, and I wasn't going to throw another wad of cash at a Berg either.

So all it took to make it work was a bit of tweaking. I guess you could look at it this way... a Schadek is the best oil pump for the VW, but they don't come blueprinted!

Stoked."

r1cpowdercoating
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:37 pm

Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by r1cpowdercoating » Sun Sep 23, 2012 9:53 am

well I finally got around to fixing my scat shifter. when I pulled it out of the car, it fell apart in 2 pieces. this however, made the modification on the inside easier. I fixed the inside and mounted it to my table and bolted the bottom plate together so as to have the correct alignment, then welded the daylights out of it. if it dont work right its gonna be hell to get it apart to fix it. hahah

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stevepugh
Posts: 144
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 8:28 am

Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by stevepugh » Fri Oct 05, 2012 9:22 am

I have recently fixed MY Scat shifter... www.bug-tech.de Job done.

r1cpowdercoating
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:37 pm

Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by r1cpowdercoating » Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:23 am

hey I finally got around to repairing my shifter last week. when I pulled it out of the racecar, I found that the factor weld was broken. this made repairing the inside easier. I was also able to bolt it together on my bench and see how smooth it was. done a little cleaning on my welding then put it together and weld it up better than the factor.

thanks for your tip

r-n-d racing

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stevepugh
Posts: 144
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 8:28 am

Re: How to fix your Scat DragFast shifter.

Post by stevepugh » Sat Oct 06, 2012 3:41 pm

I resent the fact that an £80 item needs modifying out of the box to make it work.
It's marketed as one of the best shifting there is. It's a pile of Chinese crap.

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