Gas Smell
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Bert
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu May 02, 2002 1:01 am
Gas Smell
My wife is positive she can smell gas in the cab of our bus I can't smell a darn thing maybe a little oil from the heat vent . To apease her I've tried to follow the lines as best I could from the tank to the pump filter and then injection system .Does anyone have any similar experiences or is this the way it should be ?
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Marco Robert
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2000 12:01 am
Gas Smell
The common gas smell on a bay is usualy found right after fill-up. It is caused by the 2½ " filler hose between the filler neck and the gas tank wich is evented and cracked due to aging. You can see the problem by removing the round lid on the upper right side of the engine compartiment. I'ts usualy cracked around the collar. To replace it thow you will have to remove the firewall to acces the tank side. This task is much easyer with the engine down.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Derek May
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2001 1:01 am
Gas Smell
Bert, I had the same problem, and it was old fuel lines. Mine was more stinky when the heat was on, as the vapours would get into the heating system which sucks air through the engine bay. I like to have a clean engine bay, since the air is going to make it in my bus if its cold.
If you don't know how old your lines are, replace them all when you need a good project. It could save you from a bus fire.
They can look fine from the outside, but leak.
My line was sort of stinky leaky where it connected to the fuel rail for the fuel injection, that's a good place to have a look.
Also, if you have a Gas-heater (BA6, there are lines under the Van which you need to check too. The lines to the gas heater seem to dry out and crack easily. Could be them, and if you use the gas heater, new lines there are a good idea. Check those every couple of years or even more frequently.
If you don't know how old your lines are, replace them all when you need a good project. It could save you from a bus fire.
They can look fine from the outside, but leak.
My line was sort of stinky leaky where it connected to the fuel rail for the fuel injection, that's a good place to have a look.
Also, if you have a Gas-heater (BA6, there are lines under the Van which you need to check too. The lines to the gas heater seem to dry out and crack easily. Could be them, and if you use the gas heater, new lines there are a good idea. Check those every couple of years or even more frequently.
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amoto
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2001 12:01 am
Gas Smell
I had the same problem in a '72 Westy, had a heck of time tracking it down as it was somewhat erratic. Turns out that the gas cap wasn't sealing properly. Whenever I would take a moderately hard left turn, gas would leak out from around the filler spout and run down the side of the van.
Fixed it by making a neoprene gasket for gas cap.
Fixed it by making a neoprene gasket for gas cap.
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Bert
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu May 02, 2002 1:01 am
Gas Smell
I think I'll try the gas line route first it could probably use doing does anyone know what size of line to buy ? I'd rather have the hose in hand before I pull it all apart. As for the fuel filler pipe I can see the round inspection hole but it's metal and doesn't seem like it will come out any suggestions?
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Derek May
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2001 1:01 am
Gas Smell
check with John at aircooled.net on your gas lines, or at bus-depot.com
Get the german metric stuff built for the bus. Best to look around and measure what you have, I had two sizes on mine, a bigger diameter between the tank and the pump, smaller from the pump to the engine.
Also, was taking apart a '78, it had a bunch of steel pipe with hoses at the bends, rather than hose all the way.
So, there is some variation. Check what you have, but get the OEM metric German hoses.
I think you'll probably find 7 mm outside diameter is right. There is also 5 mm gas line for Carbed engines, and there is 3.5 mm vaccuum hose and 12 mm vaccuum hose (replace those too, I suggest).
Get the german metric stuff built for the bus. Best to look around and measure what you have, I had two sizes on mine, a bigger diameter between the tank and the pump, smaller from the pump to the engine.
Also, was taking apart a '78, it had a bunch of steel pipe with hoses at the bends, rather than hose all the way.
So, there is some variation. Check what you have, but get the OEM metric German hoses.
I think you'll probably find 7 mm outside diameter is right. There is also 5 mm gas line for Carbed engines, and there is 3.5 mm vaccuum hose and 12 mm vaccuum hose (replace those too, I suggest).
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JeffH
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2000 12:01 am
Gas Smell
Other than the filler elbow hose (no one stocks these)it can also be the filler elbow (just in from the filler cap) which also splits badly(these are now available new)
Or it can be one of the 1.5"long by 6mm diameter rubber connectors (6mm fuel hose) in the vent pipes which tend to rot. One of these is in the engine compartment behind the spare wheel well the others are on top of the fuel tank so you need to remove the firewall for access.
Also check the T connection near the charcoal canister and make sure the canister is correctly hooked up
I did all this on my last bus and it cured the fuel smell and I am now doing it on my new bus
jeff
Or it can be one of the 1.5"long by 6mm diameter rubber connectors (6mm fuel hose) in the vent pipes which tend to rot. One of these is in the engine compartment behind the spare wheel well the others are on top of the fuel tank so you need to remove the firewall for access.
Also check the T connection near the charcoal canister and make sure the canister is correctly hooked up
I did all this on my last bus and it cured the fuel smell and I am now doing it on my new bus
jeff
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JeffH
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2000 12:01 am
Gas Smell
What you are calling the elbow just behind the filler cap is generally called the fuel filler neck to differentiate it from the bent hose further down.
It is not too bad a job to replace the fuel filler neck IF you do it this way-
-loosen clamp for steel pipe to hose leading to tank.
-remove 4 screws behind filler cap and push rubber neck flange back into vehicle
-pull out steel pipe with filler neck attached
-mark position of filler neck and orientation on the steel pipe and then remove
-fit new filler neck to pipe in same position as old.
-slip steel pipe back into hose
-pull rubber flange though hole Check alignment and adjust if necessary (remove assembly)
-screw flange in place
-tighten hose to pipe clamp
DO NOT try to replace the filler neck in situ
done in 20 minutes a few days ago
regards Jeff
It is not too bad a job to replace the fuel filler neck IF you do it this way-
-loosen clamp for steel pipe to hose leading to tank.
-remove 4 screws behind filler cap and push rubber neck flange back into vehicle
-pull out steel pipe with filler neck attached
-mark position of filler neck and orientation on the steel pipe and then remove
-fit new filler neck to pipe in same position as old.
-slip steel pipe back into hose
-pull rubber flange though hole Check alignment and adjust if necessary (remove assembly)
-screw flange in place
-tighten hose to pipe clamp
DO NOT try to replace the filler neck in situ
done in 20 minutes a few days ago
regards Jeff
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mnskmobi
Gas Smell
"It is not too bad a job to replace the fuel filler neck IF you do it this way-
-loosen clamp for steel pipe to hose leading to tank.
-remove 4 screws behind filler cap and push rubber neck flange back into vehicle
-pull out steel pipe with filler neck attached"
Tried this but the steel pipe wouldn't cooperate.
-loosen clamp for steel pipe to hose leading to tank.
-remove 4 screws behind filler cap and push rubber neck flange back into vehicle
-pull out steel pipe with filler neck attached"
Tried this but the steel pipe wouldn't cooperate.
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mnsKmobi
Gas Smell
As it appears that there is some variation in setup, I'll start by describing the fuel filler arrangement on my 76 Kombi. Starting from the fuel cap there is a short rubber elbow (4 in). This connects to a metal pipe which in turns connects to a rubber pipe connected to the fuel tank. In my case, the rubber elbow piece had cracked, allowing fuel to spill down inside the van when I did a hard left turn.
Replacing it was an "animal" of a job! Took 3 hours with one arm shoved up through that round inspection hatch. The biggest problem is trying to undo/do up the clamp holding the rubber elbow onto the metal pipe.
Replacing it was an "animal" of a job! Took 3 hours with one arm shoved up through that round inspection hatch. The biggest problem is trying to undo/do up the clamp holding the rubber elbow onto the metal pipe.