Agreed. The Dub Dyno engine app was what led me to the current combination of displacement, cam, and intake. If I keep the displacement, cam, rockers, and exhaust the same. The change from 40mm IDF Webers to 44's gets 14 HP gain above 5000 and the torque curve is within 1 ft/lb with a 5000 rpm torque peak up 1 ft/lb from the 4500 rpm torque peak with the 40's. Going to 48's loses a bunch of torque below 5000 for a 1 HP gain at 6000.Piledriver wrote:A MS3+MS3X (Or MSPro) can handle staged sequential, or a std ms2 running batch w/primary and secondary channel.
A microsquirt or MS3X can't run multiple injectors per channel, at least using the internal drivers.
You need logic controlled ign. coils or external coil drivers for any of those.
(Feature not bug, fully intentional design choice)
The current std mainboards are v3.0 or v3.57, so one has to be clear what you mean, as it seems everything is v3.
(microsquirt is v3, ms3, mainboard rev v3, TunerStudio is now V3 etc)
The 38mm VFR TB probably flow more vs. 44 IDF with the largest practical venturi..
Not needing a venturi has its advantages.
Pull the vents and boosters out of the idfs and you have idf TBs.
CB sells a TPS for IDFs.
You can get a Synclink for IDFs.
The IDFs are already installed.
Few ~2L engines really need larger than 40mm ITBs, esp if street driven.
Just to verify the w-120 cam choice I looked at the same build with a w-125 cam and lost both HP and torque below 5000 for a small gain over 6000.
The reason I don't want to use the Webers as TB's is that I can keep them as a bolt on backup then sell them after I'm 100% committed to the efi system.
All the 40mm IDF pattern TB's I've seen have a MAP Port built in that the Webers lack.
$$$ aside, the progression from 40mm TB's with injectors to start then making a dual injector system using modified manifolds is in my comfort zone. I can drive the car with my spare manifolds while I have someone do the work to add injectors to my port matched manifolds.
The 0-60 times suggest this engine is stronger than I had estimated. I'm getting close to having to think about cv joints, clutch, and flywheel. I have no reason to doubt that it is making the 121 HP Dub Dyno predicted. So I think 135-140 from it with 40mm TB's and efi is reasonable. I get to keep the nice fat torque curve below 4500 and have a bit more at the top end along with better fuel economy.
BTW- I pulled the rockers off and the crank rocks 5 deg back and forth from lock to lock. I am so tempted to pull it and tear it down on the patio so I can get a parts list going to rebuild it once my garage is done... Not knowing what I'll find is bugging me.
Your Wag is #2 rod bearing... Why? I have no feel for what the weak spots are in a VW bottom end.