Carrera 2 replica engine for the Ghia - Choices

[RHough]

Amber in action





Anything good or bad jump out?

[FJCamper]

Above: Your Goal: Edge and beyond of control, image blurred because cameraman is trembling, thinking you might hit him.

Hi Randy,

Text-book perfect. You look composed, smooth, and body roll is at a minimum.

You're not going fast enough yet. You'll know when you break that barrier. Typically, novices should make themselves scream in terror at least once a lap.

FJC

[RHough]

Above: Your Goal: Edge and beyond of control, image blurred because cameraman is trembling, thinking you might hit him.

Hi Randy,

Text-book perfect. You look composed, smooth, and body roll is at a minimum.

You're not going fast enough yet. You'll know when you break that barrier. Typically, novices should make themselves scream in terror at least once a lap.

FJC

I love that photo! Not my goal to run on two wheels however.

I'm gong with a 1.5 qt deep sump. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/SCAT-1-5-Q ... /50060.htm this is the only one I can find that is less than 2" deep.

Adding an Accusump seems like a good idea too. It can't hurt ... right?

I just bit the bullet and ordered a CSP Python exhaust system for the car. I'm going with 1.5" (38mm) primaries. I am pretty sure that the combo of 40mm IDFs with 34mm Venturis, the 92/74 1968cc engine, 40/35 DRD L5 heads, and a W120 cam (1.25:1 rockers) and the 38mm exhaust will give me a very nice engine.

I have to wait 6 months to get back to the mechanical stuff ... Amber is going to House of Ghia for some TLC while I'm in Mexico. Probably fresh paint, new suspension bushings, gauges, and a roll bar ...

Last but not least Roger Kraus Racing in California has Avon 175/70R15 C6ZZ tires in stock. He says the 911 guys love them. These things are not cheap! A quick check of the SCCA Solo rules says they are legal for FSP (even if the rest of the car won't be after the engine change). The car should be DM or EM ...How you ran with that group is beyond me ... the PAX # for those groups is stupid fast!

[FJCamper]

Hi Randy,

Ghias that can run on two wheels do well in EM/DM. The intimidation factor is first class. Our best competition was these fugly little Lotus 7 kit cars, a pox on their camshafts.

We took a season's championship in EM and another in DM. Anyway, a slalom winner is not a winning open track car. Slalom winners are quick. Road Race cars are fast.

Everything you do to make your slalom car handle "quick" makes it unstable on a road course. We also ran a super low 4.86 rear end that allowed us to shoot like a rocket off the line and between gates.

Personally, an Accusump is nice but a deep sump should do you. It worked for us. And AVON's are teriffic. We swear by them.

FJC

[RHough]

And the beat goes on ...

I took the car down to Mike at House of Ghia this weekend. I do not have the skills time or tools to do a restoration myself. Taking the car to a professional seems the best choice.

I've heard conflicting opinions on how much power the standard box can take. I've heard numbers from 90-100HP to 250HP. Should I anticipate problems with the transmission at 130 lb/ft and 130HP?

[Piledriver]

And the beat goes on ...

I took the car down to Mike at House of Ghia this weekend. I do not have the skills time or tools to do a restoration myself. Taking the car to a professional seems the best choice.

I've heard conflicting opinions on how much power the standard box can take. I've heard numbers from 90-100HP to 250HP. Should I anticipate problems with the transmission at 130 lb/ft and 130HP?

Depends on your left foot.
When I was 16 I killed stock transmissions with an almost stock 1600 on a regular basis.

Of course in 1978 you could get another one at almost any junkyard for $50-$75 or so, and 98 octane premium was ~60 cents a gallon.

[Fiatdude]

drag race starts and wheel hop are the two biggest killers of VW trans (R&P failures)-- -- -- I found that setting the R&P to zero lash will make them live a lot longer in competion

[FJCamper]

Hi Randy,

The stock CV joints will take up to about 125HP if you don't drag race.

I believe I understand what you're asking ... how much engine can you have before you break your transaxle?

Your "Carrera" engine plan isn't a transaxle killer. Just keep sudden starts to a minimum. And don't use overly big, wide rear tires. You need some slip and wheelspin to reduce the shock loads.

FJC

[RHough]

Hi Randy,

The stock CV joints will take up to about 125HP if you don't drag race.

I believe I understand what you're asking ... how much engine can you have before you break your transaxle?

Your "Carrera" engine plan isn't a transaxle killer. Just keep sudden starts to a minimum. And don't use overly big, wide rear tires. You need some slip and wheelspin to reduce the shock loads.

FJC

Bingo! Thanks

So I have to find some other justification to have a box built with Speedster 1st & 2nd to even the spacing? The car should be able to use a closer ratios box with more power available.

From your road race thread:

Here's what we have in our Rancho Performance "ProComp" transaxle for our IRS No. 53 car.

Super Differential (4 spider gears instead of two)
Aluminum Side Cover (stops flexing)
Welded 3rd & 4th Gears
Steel Shift Forks
Hardened Keys
4:125 Ring & Pinion
Close Ratio 3rd & 4th

I don't understand a need for 3rd & 4th being closer together. From playing with gearing calculators and just driving the car 1st is stupid low and 2nd is too close to 1st ... making the gap between 2nd & 3rd silly. On the street the 2nd <> 3rd gap is the one I wish was smaller.

This is what it looks like replacing the VW 3.80 & 2.06 1st & 2nd with Speedster 3.09 1st & 1.76 2nd. Tire size and 3.875 final are the same on both gear sets.

I haven't found much on the forums about people playing with ratios except for the close 3rd - 4th. I'm missing something but I don't know what it is.

Props to MFactory for the online calculator! http://www.teammfactory.com/gearcalcula ... on+1+%26+2

[FJCamper]

Hi Randy,

Close-ratio anything is based on trying to stop RPM drop in upshifts.

Our close-ratio was purchased on the hope and theory that on fast road courses where we did not have to drop to 2nd, and we had the torque and RPM's to stay in 3rd, that the up and down shifts between 3rd and 4th would be short and allow the engine to stay in the power band.

Barret's first impression of the transmission was that it had two 4th gears. We consider it a fast but "short track" gearbox, as the 4th is not high enough for really good top speeds. We have mixed feelings about it. The gearbox is actually sold for drag racers, so the 3rd-4th upshift is effective.

The issue of the stock gearbox gap between 2nd and 3rd is compensated for a great deal by engine power. You notice the gap less. The '65 Ghia we jusr raced at HSR has a strong, but stock-ratio gearset. Our drivers are totally adjusted to it.

To close, you bet the 356 ratios "feel" better. But given equal power they don't get you there any quicker.

FJC

[Slow 1200]

I haven't found much on the forums about people playing with ratios except for the close 3rd - 4th. I'm missing something but I don't know what it is.

check the price of each option and you'll soon find out why

[RHough]

I haven't found much on the forums about people playing with ratios except for the close 3rd - 4th. I'm missing something but I don't know what it is.

check the price of each option and you'll soon find out why

You had me scared ...

From Rancho $849 for a pro-street. They just quoted me $995 for a 3.11, 1.86, 1.26, .89 box with 3.785 final. Not much of a bump.

Maybe I'll ask Santa ...

[Piledriver]

Is the Weddle 3.56 R&P (or whatever it is) usable for a high tq daily or are they too soft?
Can you get them in a "street" heat treat?
(They are drag gears and made to be tough, rather than hard, at least in my understanding)

[Slow 1200]

I haven't found much on the forums about people playing with ratios except for the close 3rd - 4th. I'm missing something but I don't know what it is.

check the price of each option and you'll soon find out why

You had me scared ...

From Rancho $849 for a pro-street. They just quoted me $995 for a 3.11, 1.86, 1.26, .89 box with 3.785 final. Not much of a bump.

Maybe I'll ask Santa ...

not that sounds like a deal...I was going with these prices

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... id=1463321

[Steve Arndt]

That has to be a typo or miscommunication. The aftermarket mainshaft to get a custom 1st and 2nd gear is like 650 bucks by itself.