Ghia Rear Suspension Overhaul
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david58
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Ghia Rear Suspension Overhaul
I am pulling the engine and replacing all the rubber items and cables the clutch and rear wheel bearings.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
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david58
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Re: Ghia Rear Suspension Overhaul
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
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FJCamper
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Re: Ghia Rear Suspension Overhaul
Hi David,
With all the work you're doing, consider replacing the rear diagnonal arm inner pivot bushings. Get the red Prothane bushings.
FJC
With all the work you're doing, consider replacing the rear diagnonal arm inner pivot bushings. Get the red Prothane bushings.
FJC
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Greg Rickard
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Re: Ghia Rear Suspension Overhaul
Ahhh...looks oh so familiar. I just pulled the engine and transaxle of my '71 Ghia. I sent the transaxle out to Der Transaxle (nearby in Placentia, CA) for a full rebuild, and I replaced the CV joints, all three transaxle mounts, the clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and crankshaft seal. While everything was out and accessible, I also pulled the oil pump to check its condition. It shows signs of a long life that is almost fully spent (gear backlash, shaft looseness, etc.), so I am replacing it with a spanky new Shadek unit that I am in the process of blueprinting (radiusing the inlet and outlet and reducing gear and cover gap to zero).
Like you are doing, I replaced the transaxle rubber seal and engine bay rubber seal pieces. Don't forget all of the rubber thingies like the heater cable booties, clutch cable bootie, transaxle nose cone bootie, draft tube and collar for the crankcase/oil filler breathing tube.
Also, I suggest that you check the reverse light switch wire harness for wear. After 40 year of wiggling around as well as being incorrectly routed into the engine bay, the reverse light harness on my car had worn through to the point that bare wire was exposed and fraying in a couple of spots. That wire harness is tied into the coil (where it draws power), so a short circuit could be bad. I repaired the harness using heat shrink tubing and also covered the harness in convoluted cable wrap. Also, check your starter contacts and harness. Mine was okay, but I also wrapped the starter harness in convoluted cable wrap for added protection.
Have fun!
Like you are doing, I replaced the transaxle rubber seal and engine bay rubber seal pieces. Don't forget all of the rubber thingies like the heater cable booties, clutch cable bootie, transaxle nose cone bootie, draft tube and collar for the crankcase/oil filler breathing tube.
Also, I suggest that you check the reverse light switch wire harness for wear. After 40 year of wiggling around as well as being incorrectly routed into the engine bay, the reverse light harness on my car had worn through to the point that bare wire was exposed and fraying in a couple of spots. That wire harness is tied into the coil (where it draws power), so a short circuit could be bad. I repaired the harness using heat shrink tubing and also covered the harness in convoluted cable wrap. Also, check your starter contacts and harness. Mine was okay, but I also wrapped the starter harness in convoluted cable wrap for added protection.
Have fun!