Eberspacher Air Blower Motor Squealing
- MGVWfan
- Posts: 825
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm
Eberspacher Air Blower Motor Squealing
When I start it up, it squeals somtimes. I'm suspecting I'll have to lube the bearings...anyone ever take the motor apart before (and have advice on how to do it, or better yet, what NOT to do)?
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
-
- Posts: 264
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2004 2:03 pm
http://manuals.type4.org/ba4/
From Tuna's site, read through this a while back, but not lately, should help though.
From Tuna's site, read through this a while back, but not lately, should help though.
- MGVWfan
- Posts: 825
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm
Yeah, I agree, flames would be a BAD THING
The motor appears to be a normal permanent magnet brush-type DC motor, so opening it up and re-lubing the bearings should be no big deal...but there are motors that don't have self-aligning bearings, and you never get them back together right. No way to know what kind of bearings this thing has without opening it up.
The motor appears to be a normal permanent magnet brush-type DC motor, so opening it up and re-lubing the bearings should be no big deal...but there are motors that don't have self-aligning bearings, and you never get them back together right. No way to know what kind of bearings this thing has without opening it up.
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11895
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Yes, I have had them apart. You will need a few things from the store.
1) contact files...for filing the points
2) high temp grease....permatex superlube stays creamy...no metal...works great
3)A skinny 0-ring to fit between the aluminum cone at the business end..between the heater body and the blower...go to a gearing dealer and size one up. About 1/16" cross section.
4) A tube of high temp permatex copper sealant.
Ok you will need a couple skinny screwdrivers and a set of metric hex keys.
Remove the rubber boot carefully so as not to tear it or break the plastic plug. Under it is a large snap ring. Take that loose.
At the cone end, your should split the cone away from the heater body. It either has an o-ring itself or is hed on with charred grease.
Under it....is the impeller...cool looking aint it!
Now going of memory here...so bear with me.
You will see a hole...but I cannot remember if its in teh heater body of the cone....but its for the hex key...to remove the impellor.
By the way...if the set screw on the impellor has slipped or if the bearings are too shot...the impellor can brush on the cone making a "screeing" noise. If the impellor has not contacted the cone...it turns freely...measure the distance from the back edge of the impellor to the body so you can re-install it correctly. You may have to put the snap ring back in while you do that.
After all of that is off.....the motor assemly should slide out of the aluminum body. There is a shaft sticking out of a cap at one end and a cap at the other. remove the screws that hold them on. Now you see the trigger points and capacitors (inductors?) at either end...that control the coil and fuel pump. Clean them, gap them to .016", grease the gears and re-install.
If memory serves, there are some long flat blade screws visible that allow the end plates to come loose from the armature body to expose the bearings and brushes. Careful...you may have to pry the brushes past the armature rings. Clean the armature with a pink erasure....replace the brushes if you can find some the same...( i found some twenty years ago at an electrical supply house). The bearing should be simple bronze if memory serves. Clean, grease, reassemble.
Seal the cone to the body with peramtex copper...clamp tight and let it sit overnight.....this is important.
You want the cone stuck solid when you slip on the o-rings...again with a little permatex copper....and try with only two hands to hold the motor into the correct loctaion in the opening of the heater body...while you manipulate the band/cinch clamp onto the unit....finger tighten to hold location...then use a longe screwdriver or short 1/4" socket set...to tighten it.
Important!....there is a notch in the heater cone and a detent...if menory serves...in the heater body. they must line up. Ray
1) contact files...for filing the points
2) high temp grease....permatex superlube stays creamy...no metal...works great
3)A skinny 0-ring to fit between the aluminum cone at the business end..between the heater body and the blower...go to a gearing dealer and size one up. About 1/16" cross section.
4) A tube of high temp permatex copper sealant.
Ok you will need a couple skinny screwdrivers and a set of metric hex keys.
Remove the rubber boot carefully so as not to tear it or break the plastic plug. Under it is a large snap ring. Take that loose.
At the cone end, your should split the cone away from the heater body. It either has an o-ring itself or is hed on with charred grease.
Under it....is the impeller...cool looking aint it!
Now going of memory here...so bear with me.
You will see a hole...but I cannot remember if its in teh heater body of the cone....but its for the hex key...to remove the impellor.
By the way...if the set screw on the impellor has slipped or if the bearings are too shot...the impellor can brush on the cone making a "screeing" noise. If the impellor has not contacted the cone...it turns freely...measure the distance from the back edge of the impellor to the body so you can re-install it correctly. You may have to put the snap ring back in while you do that.
After all of that is off.....the motor assemly should slide out of the aluminum body. There is a shaft sticking out of a cap at one end and a cap at the other. remove the screws that hold them on. Now you see the trigger points and capacitors (inductors?) at either end...that control the coil and fuel pump. Clean them, gap them to .016", grease the gears and re-install.
If memory serves, there are some long flat blade screws visible that allow the end plates to come loose from the armature body to expose the bearings and brushes. Careful...you may have to pry the brushes past the armature rings. Clean the armature with a pink erasure....replace the brushes if you can find some the same...( i found some twenty years ago at an electrical supply house). The bearing should be simple bronze if memory serves. Clean, grease, reassemble.
Seal the cone to the body with peramtex copper...clamp tight and let it sit overnight.....this is important.
You want the cone stuck solid when you slip on the o-rings...again with a little permatex copper....and try with only two hands to hold the motor into the correct loctaion in the opening of the heater body...while you manipulate the band/cinch clamp onto the unit....finger tighten to hold location...then use a longe screwdriver or short 1/4" socket set...to tighten it.
Important!....there is a notch in the heater cone and a detent...if menory serves...in the heater body. they must line up. Ray
- MGVWfan
- Posts: 825
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm
Thanks Ray, you described pretty much what I did back in November on the combustion air blower, except for the o-ring bit (good to get confirmation of my shop practices from da mastah )...however, mine didn't have an O-Ring, or any trace of one, just a Marmon band clamp. Maybe mine is later, or a different combustion air blower type? (mine's AEG)
However...we have a Cool Hand Luke moment I think ...the combustion air blower is working OK however, the other one (the hot air blower...the one that blows into the exhaust exchangers when the engine is in) is the one that squeals on occasion. You know, the one in the engine bay.
However...we have a Cool Hand Luke moment I think ...the combustion air blower is working OK however, the other one (the hot air blower...the one that blows into the exhaust exchangers when the engine is in) is the one that squeals on occasion. You know, the one in the engine bay.
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11895
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Yep...I only found that an o-ring went there when inspecting an original exploded parts list. Its almsot never there. Or...you can delete it and do just as well with a smear of permatex copper.
Always wondered if there were a name for those clamps !
Ah...yes...wrong blwoer.....never mind!
But...same difference. A pair of long screws...back cap comes off. Its a pot shaped bronze bearing. Clean....lube it ...done. But...be wary...getting the brushes back in....because they are spring loaded will take patience and some small plastic picks. Ray
Always wondered if there were a name for those clamps !
Ah...yes...wrong blwoer.....never mind!
But...same difference. A pair of long screws...back cap comes off. Its a pot shaped bronze bearing. Clean....lube it ...done. But...be wary...getting the brushes back in....because they are spring loaded will take patience and some small plastic picks. Ray
- MGVWfan
- Posts: 825
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm
Yeah, I think the name comes from the company that invented them during WW2...they're used on beacoup things aviation and space.
Thanks for the words, especially the note on the brushes, I'll be especially careful with them.
Thanks for the words, especially the note on the brushes, I'll be especially careful with them.
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
-
- Posts: 970
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
General Heater ?
Just a general heater question, is the heater a fire hazard with being a gasoline heater or is there some kinda safety? Too bad you cant put some kinda electric heater element in there like a barbeque starter,lol
or a mini propane bottle setup element,lol! I never had problem with my old 412 heater and it worked great. Was there actually heaters in the seats? bill
or a mini propane bottle setup element,lol! I never had problem with my old 412 heater and it worked great. Was there actually heaters in the seats? bill
- MGVWfan
- Posts: 825
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm
A liquid fuelled heater is no more or less dangerous than the engine itself, it all depends on the care one takes in keeping the fuel system leak-free, and the safety systems intact and working
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11895
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
It is no more risk than say...that gas fired furnace under the shelf where you keep your towels...in the hallway, or the oil fired heater in your basement, or that infernal gad burning hot water heater out in the garage. All of those....run by themselves....while you sleep in the same building.. .
It has several safety systems. Most notably,the timer thermoprobe and relay system, that cuts off the pump if the fuel has not begun to reach teh chamber or heat up. This is safety against a broken fuel line. It has a 500+ high limit switch in the top. It has a complex network of grounds...any of which can cause enough reistance to blow the fuse or trip the safety switch...in varous ways. There is the safety lever...wherin, of the vents are no open and the aux fan not running...the heater cannot start. Or...of the aux fan quits running and there is not enough air to keep the heater cool....the thermoswitch shuts it down.
Safe enough for me...if maintenace is done....especially in an application where I rarely sleep! Ray
It has several safety systems. Most notably,the timer thermoprobe and relay system, that cuts off the pump if the fuel has not begun to reach teh chamber or heat up. This is safety against a broken fuel line. It has a 500+ high limit switch in the top. It has a complex network of grounds...any of which can cause enough reistance to blow the fuse or trip the safety switch...in varous ways. There is the safety lever...wherin, of the vents are no open and the aux fan not running...the heater cannot start. Or...of the aux fan quits running and there is not enough air to keep the heater cool....the thermoswitch shuts it down.
Safe enough for me...if maintenace is done....especially in an application where I rarely sleep! Ray