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I am getting old and I would like to get out of having to replace my hydraulic brake light switches every three years.

Will This Universal Mechanical Brake Light Switch Work on my 1973 VW Beetle?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal ... ,1972.html

Has anyone used one on theirs?

Any help is appreciated!

i think i like this one better;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Light-Swi ... rN&vxp=mtr

I'm confused on why would one make it more complicated and add more moving parts?
And what was wrong with you stopping using crappy aftermarket parts and just use OEM parts? Patina is in, and frankly safer when it comes brake switches.
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=145676&p=1199807
Seriously, stop buying crap.

I ran my Beetle RHD for a few years. A proper RHD MC was >$200 so I cheated and used a LHD one, canted slightly - but that left no room for hydraulic brakelight switches so I had to rig a mechanical one.
It's harder than you'd think with floor-mounted pedals; I ended up making an extension that clamped to the backside of the brake pedal to provide an attachment point as high as possible, out of the way of my toes, to which I connected a long spring which was strong enough to actuate the switch when the pedal started moving but light enough to extend so as not to pull the switch apart if the pedal were ever to near the floor. It worked well enough but I wouldn't recommend it over the stock switches if you can run them.

It's been years since any quality switches have been available in the aftermarket - you can expect longer life from used OEM ones pulled from VW/Audi waterpumpers at the boneyard (and their masters are right up top, easy to get to)

Here's how I did my mechanical switch (the switch itself is just a Radio Shack bat-handle momentary-on toggle, by using a double-throw one I had an "installed spare" - the switch could be rotated 180° to use the other set of contacts if needed). The extension piece is a chunk of a small BJ front torsion leaf, which together with the coil spring allowed the pedal to go clear to the floor without breaking the switch.

My FTE made in Germany brake light switches are still working.
It has been about 3 years since i replaced them.
I'll just have to lose a little weight and get out the Motive Products Power Bleeder Kit For European Cars and replace those switches before they fail.

You know you can add an in-line Tee in the brake line and put the stock brake like switch in the Tee. Not the best way of doing it but it does work.

Off-road setups, when using turning brakes/cutting brakes, do this. It allows the brake lights to work when using the pedal and the individual side brake light to work when using the turning brake handle for that side. I think there is even a commercial setup now available for turning brakes.

For what it is worth.

Lee

I forgot to add that there are distribution blocks that the MC brake line goes into that disperse the brake fluid. They can not only carry the light switch but the block can also have residual pressure valves.