Just Bought 1973 Super Beetle and 1974 Super Beetle.

[Charlie Mac]

New to this forum, and am Excited about getting started on rebuilding my two SB's. The 1974 Had New Motor with less than 200 miles on it. It had set up for about 3 years. It Cranks right up with Starter Fluid sprayed in Carb. but Dies really Quick.
Checked Fuel Supply, took off supply fuel line and was NO fuel coming out. (Fuel Pump?) Ordered! While waiting for new pump to come in, Took off Carb, and going to clean needle valve. What else guys? I am Brand New to Working on Anything other than an ole 350 chevy engine Years ago with my dad.
I appreciate any and All advice Ya'll can give me.

Charlie Mac

[Jon65]

Welcome! From one new guy to another, this site definitely has a lot of information that can help you out.

Please post up some pics of your new rides if you have some.

[Charlie Mac]

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t57 ... 1af21b.jpg

First Time to Post Pic... Please let me know if ya'll can see them and I will Post More.

Thanks

Charlie Mac

[Charlie Mac]

http://s1314.photobucket.com/user/1973- ... 4.jpg.html

[Marc]

...took off supply fuel line and was NO fuel coming out...

Supply side of what? The carb or the pump? With fuel in the tank it should run out of the hose which connects to the pump, although if the line from chassis to engine is routed higher than normal and the tank's been run dry you could have an airlock until the tank level is above the high point in the line (a dry fuel pump doesn't self-prime very well).

Unlike Standards, Supers aren't prone to the fuel tank outlet strainer becoming clogged. `71 through early`73 Supers did have an inline filter up front between the tank and chassis, but it was discontinued as of chassis 1332802561 so that's not pertinent to your `74. But all models will starve for fuel if the vent system is clogged - if you hear air hissing in when the gas cap is loosened there's a problem.

[Charlie Mac]

Marc, previous owner put a clear plastic inline fuel filter between the tank and the line connected to the manual fuel pump. it visibly had gas in it. I loosened the clamp and removed the fuel line in FRONT of the filter and No gas was coming out. ( From Tank thru line prior to inline filter). Vent line may be clogged. I took the gas cap off, and it DID SEEM to run longer than it has before. Ran for at least one minute before slowly bwwwrrrr dying.

[Piledriver]

While the dreaded sock filter may not be an issue, they were all subject to possible rusty gas tank syndrome, and possibly the lines.

This gets worse if they sat... resting... under a tree for many years with old nasty fuel in them.

Small rusty junk can accumulate in the line and cause a blockage.

This sort of thing you can usually blow out from the pump end, at least temporarily.
(Hint--- take the gas cap off or it will spit back)

If you see this sort of issue, having the tank cleaned and coated can save many brain cells.

[Marc]

Standard (and Bus, and Type III) all had tank outlet pipes that come in from below, with a wire-mesh strainer surrounding the pipe. Under fuel demand, rust flakes and other detritrus from the bottom of the tank would lift up and acrete to the strainer, especially under high-demand conditions like freeway running. Once the car stalls out and coasts to the side of the road, the crud starts falling back down off the strainer so that after ~15 minutes the engine will start back up again and all seems to be well (which is why this syndrome is often diagnosed as something heat-related). On a Super tank the outlet pipe enters from above and points down towards the tank bottom. There's a plastic strainer over the end that can also be plugged like the one in the other models, but it's far less likely - a Super tank would have to be full of corruption before it would be an issue, and then only after a sustained high-demand period...it's just not a likely suspect when there's low fuel flow to the pump on a car that's been idle for a time. There is a bung-plug in the tank adjacent to the pickup pipe which can be removed to access the plastic suction strainer (reach in with needle-nosed pliers to pick it off) but it's just not statistically likely to be the problem.
If the fuel flow to the pump inlet seems noticeably improved with the gas cap off, leave the cap loose for now. You can troubleshoot the vent line problem later. You say there's a non-stock inline filter on the inlet side of the pump? I'd replace that before putting on a new pump.

On the subject of `73/`74 pumps, though... generator-equipped engines used a "high-pivot" pump that took a 108mm-long pushrod; alternator-equipped engines got a "low-pivot" pump, altered to make removal/installation easier with the larger-diameter alternator housing - those take a 100mm pushrod. Any time you change pumps, make sure you have the appropriate pushrod installed.

[Charlie Mac]

Piledriver and Marc, Thank you both for the replies!

I took the inline Filter off, and the Gas Cap. Blew air thru the line. FUEL!!! flowing freely I assume the vent line was plugged. I then put the inline filter back on, and it filled with fuel. I took the fuel line off the carb, and Gas flowed freely to the Carb.

Cranked the engine and it died real quick.

I took off the Fuel pump off my 73 super, and placed it on the 74 and it Idled smoothly for 10 minutes! I revved up the engine a couple of times and it backfired once, then as it went to idle, it died....

Now the Battery will barely turn the motor over... seems like it may have jumped timing? Scratching Head.

[Marc]

How old is the gas? If it's stale, drain the tank and put in fresh (you can use the old stuff up a little bit at a time, like one gallon per tank, or just use it in the lawnmower).

Check the condition of the points and the gap. If the lubricant for the rubbing block has dried up, the block will wear and the gap will close, which retards the timing (and eventually causes a loss of spark altogether). If the bushings around the distributor shaft are worn, the points' spring can deflect the shaft and change the gap - the effect is more pronounced at low/cranking speeds - so the gap may need to be widened a bit to compensate.

[Charlie Mac]

when I got the dubs, the tanks were almost bone dry, so I added about 5 gallons to each tank, and Now I think taking 4 bolts off the tank and draining them both will be "Safe Not Sorry" attitude. concerning the points, I have not checked. What is the proper gap setting? also,
Converting to electronic apposed to points? Pros/Cons?

I don't mind changing out if it will be for the Better. I am more into Dependable and less than keeping it original...
Want to Ride more than Wrench. I do want to do Total Resto on the 74 my wife will be driving.

and My 73 well... lots of thoughts running thru my head on it. I am thinking of cutting off the Top and making a "T-Bucket" is one option and either getting the 1600 in it modded up as High as I can get it or.... Just buying a Turnkey 2300+ Motor, a Tranny that can handle that HP and CLutch... want it to Go Fast!!! I will be looking at all of ya'lls post on that later, but want to get the wife's 74 done first! again, I do appreceiate every word ya'll give, and take it to the Notebook!!!

Charlie Mac!

[Marc]

Best practice is to use a dwell meter and gap the points for 48° dwell "most of the time" (as I mentioned above, it's normal for the dwell to be a little higher at low RPM on a distributor that's seen some miles). But .016" is the gap spec.
Personally I dislike electronic pickups because when they fail they fail completely and with no warning. Don't go offroading & have a AAA card? Go for it, you'll avoid the 5 minutes' routine maintenance that points should have twice a year.

[Charlie Mac]

Thanks for the spec's and I will Stay with Distributor and Points.