Turbo type4 fastback:)

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HotStreetVw
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Post by HotStreetVw » Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:34 am

I can see it solving a problem if you have lose holes :wink: or if the material is stronger(more preload). But its not like adding large dowels on a type1 because your only increasing the size on the crank. its still will shear on the small cross section.
Piledriver wrote:
HotStreetVw wrote:whats the purpose of increasing the size inside the flywheel? I dont see how that would solve a problem, the bolt is still going to shear on the small cross section, or the transition between small to large(stress concentration)
Think 13.1mm diameter dowel pins, but made of pure unobtainium, and screwed in at 100 ft/lbs.

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Wally
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Post by Wally » Tue Nov 15, 2005 10:00 am

HotStreetVw wrote: or if the material is stronger (more preload).
Not if, they are stronger (12.9 instead of 10.9)...AND because you can then give more preload thereoff, you won't have to use the (higher) shearload of the bolts (unless you start to do dragracing with heavy cars and slicks).

Anyway, I thought it worked as such :roll: and many many sets have been used on very potent type 4's with these. Its tried and tested for 10 or 15 years over here.
I believe Jake has used them as well himself in the past and probably now makes his own...

weren't we talking about a certain turbo Fasty :wink:
T4T: Type 4 Turbo engine, under construction

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jonas n
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Post by jonas n » Tue Nov 15, 2005 2:51 pm

Ok! so i can torque them more....but what about the idea of getting bolts with a longer neck and cut the holes 13,1mm a litte bit down in the crank? the treads must be long enough anyway.... (just a little ide me and Jonas Linder got at Mcdonalds last night) :wink: another thing that we thougt of was to use stock bolts, and make a sleeve that fits on them that goes through the flywheel and a bit down in the crank....of course it has to fit totally and everything must be matched together..

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jonas_linder
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Post by jonas_linder » Tue Nov 15, 2005 3:20 pm

jonas n wrote:Ok! so i can torque them more....but what about the idea of getting bolts with a longer neck and cut the holes 13,1mm a litte bit down in the crank? the treads must be long enough anyway.... (just a little ide me and Jonas Linder got at Mcdonalds last night) :wink: another thing that we thougt of was to use stock bolts, and make a sleeve that fits on them that goes through the flywheel and a bit down in the crank....of course it has to fit totally and everything must be matched together..
No, it was your idéa ;)

I can always get 12.9 grade bolts from my work!

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jonas n
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Post by jonas n » Tue Nov 15, 2005 3:39 pm

i wonder if it works....i´ll see if i can find that rusty crank i have somewhere and make a prototype :wink:

farmer
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Post by farmer » Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:52 pm

jonas n wrote:Ok! so i can torque them more....but what about the idea of getting bolts with a longer neck and cut the holes 13,1mm a litte bit down in the crank? the treads must be long enough anyway.... (just a little ide me and Jonas Linder got at Mcdonalds last night) :wink: another thing that we thougt of was to use stock bolts, and make a sleeve that fits on them that goes through the flywheel and a bit down in the crank....of course it has to fit totally and everything must be matched together..
Dont bother mate.
Just get a set of BAS bolts. By a 13,1 mm reamer, and that part is taken care of. Now for even more strength, go drill 5 extra dowels in the crank/flywheel. I, and others use 5 mm 10,9 or 12,9 steel dowels, typically obtained from the local machine shop. This works for 300 + hp on 8,5" drag slicks. So no need of inventing the wheel again.
Drop me an Email if you need the BAS bolts. I think I got 1 set on the shelf right now.
T.

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jonas n
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Post by jonas n » Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:50 pm

This works for 300 + hp on 8,5" drag slicks.
this is things i like to hear! :D I´ll see if i can find the bolts in sweden....

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Can Drive Soon
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Post by Can Drive Soon » Wed Nov 16, 2005 4:55 pm

Nasta, didn't know you were a kraut. I like the speaker box jack stand 8) .

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Sandeep
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Post by Sandeep » Thu Nov 17, 2005 3:42 pm

Jonas,

Can you tell me how hot your intake temperature gets while making a hard run ?

Thanks

Sandeep

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jonas n
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Post by jonas n » Fri Nov 18, 2005 3:21 pm

the intake temp...hmmm....i dont remember but it´s not critical;) Linder do you remember the temp?

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jonas_linder
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Post by jonas_linder » Fri Nov 18, 2005 6:01 pm

jonas n wrote:the intake temp...hmmm....i dont remember but it´s not critical;) Linder do you remember the temp?
no, it was a long time ago.. :(

I have a log of mine temperatur during a hard run!

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type3
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Post by type3 » Sat Nov 19, 2005 12:37 pm

Sweet project Jonas N!!! :D


cheers,
type3

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jonas n
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Post by jonas n » Sun Nov 20, 2005 3:09 pm

thanks Type3 :D

did some disassembling on the new heads last week!

Image
Image

They are 2,0 squareports, i sandblasted them,took out the seats and the valve guides, and hopefully i can get some welding done on them soon!
I want to relocate the sparkplug a little;)

peumansjoris
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Post by peumansjoris » Sun Nov 20, 2005 4:26 pm

Hello Jonas
How are you sure your drilling at the right angle ? What's the valve angle of a type 4 head ?
Greeting from Belgium
Joris Peumans

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jonas_linder
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Post by jonas_linder » Sun Nov 20, 2005 5:09 pm

peumansjoris wrote:Hello Jonas
How are you sure your drilling at the right angle ? What's the valve angle of a type 4 head ?
Greeting from Belgium
Joris Peumans
I'm guessing he index it with a 8mm drillbit and just adjusted it after that ;) Anyway, that would work :D

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