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Well i have to get you updated now, the plan right now is to get the car running,to join the Carbage Run Scandinavia this summer. It's a kind of roadtrip for cars at least 15 years old, with a value about €500($500). The distance to drive is 3000km(1864miles) in five days through seven countries. We signed up with the fasty and just have to put it together as a more streetfriendly car.

Started to put the old type4 together as a N/A-motor. 94mm flat top pistons, 42x36 valves, mild cam i got from a friend. All things balanced and of equal weight.

We are actually going FROM turbo, megasquirt and pointless ignotion TO carburetor and points! Back to basic, simple constructions and reliability is highest priority!

Are those ARP bolts on the connecting rods? If yes, what part number?

Stock rods with 22mm bushing and arp-bolts, if the parts was bought today i would have bought some lighter h-beams.

Don't remember the part nr for the bolts, they are ARP and they cost a fortune back in 2006:)

OK, thank you. I'm looking for some ARP bolts that do not need expensive machining to install. I don't know if there are such bolts that would fit without machining.

TZepeSH wrote:OK, thank you. I'm looking for some ARP bolts that do not need expensive machining to install. I don't know if there are such bolts that would fit without machining.

Anytime you replace the bolts the big end is supposed to be resized, as the bolts are a interference fit.
You may get away with it, but you go first.

You can get a set of much better ARP2000 wave-loks and nuts (2 sets for us actually) for a 396 chevy for less than the stupid expensive "correct" ARP bolts but the bolt holes will need reamed a few thou.

Thanks for the clarification Pile. I now understand why the big end need to be worked on.
Do you know the part numbers for the "Correct bolts" and for the Chevy bolts? I found several part numbers, some for same numbers for 1.7 rods and 1.8 and 2.0 rods, so it's confusing. 104-6006 seem to be too short, for 1.7l rods, 235-6402 might be the ones for Chevy, can 104-6004 be the "correct" ones ?
Sorry to hack your thread Jonas.

~Same as T1 rod bolts, 104-6006 fits all T4 rods, but DO shop hard, as prices vary wildly.

The 235-6402 are the arp pro 2000 but even the dirt cheap 135-6402s are somewhat stronger than the vw bolts due to wavelok design.

RIMCO uses a super duty Carrillo bolt that is allegedly a direct stock replacement but nobody had figured out the part# yet. It uses the 300,000 PSI CARR proprietary SS material which makes ARP2000 look worthless and weak.

RIMCO will merrily exchange your stock rods for their "Super rods" which are stock rods, balanced and optionally clearanced, with those bolts... Don't see them on their website but AFAIK they still do them, but IIRC pushing the cost of EMW Hbeams.

The arp2000s come with nice light 12 point nuts.
I bought a set years ago, sold half, and have been looking for the rest since

By the time you get the bolts and machining and rest of rod rebuild done, Hbeams start to look really practical.

Consider the Dodge rod bearing mod as well: should be ~no extra cost if the rods are being resized anyway, nd as long as you are std or first cut on the crank the awesome Clevite K series bearings are an option.
Even if crank is on cut 2+ there are excellent rod bearings available, cheap, anywhere..

jonas n wrote:We are actually going FROM turbo, megasquirt and pointless ignotion TO carburetor and points! Back to basic, simple constructions and reliability is highest priority!

Don't call me when you crawl around in the gravel looking for your small brass-thingies for the carburetors

Oh.. wait.. you were the one saying that

How many times did MS actually break down in the fastback?

double post

Garbage run? Worth 500 euros? Heck, I'll give you double that for the fasty!

Wally wrote:

jonas_linder wrote:

Don't call me when you crawl around in the gravel looking for your small brass-thingies for the carburetors

Oh.. wait.. you were the one saying that

How many times did MS actually break down in the fastback?

Good points! Pun intended

. jonas n wrote:
We are actually going FROM turbo, megasquirt and pointless ignotion TO carburetor and points! Back to basic, simple constructions and reliability is highest priority!



Don't call me when you crawl around in the gravel looking for your small brass-thingies for the carburetors

Oh.. wait.. you were the one saying that

How many times did MS actually break down in the fastback?

I know i said that!
I'm not worried about the MS itself, it actually only broke down once...in the milde of the Woods...where no phones worked . But to be safe about i't i need to install it better. The guys im going with gave me turbo-prohibition anyway

Garbage run? Worth 500 euros? Heck, I'll give you double that for the fasty!

The rules were not that hard,old and rusty was ok i actually bought the fasty for €700, think it was in 2004...

jonas n wrote: The guys im going with gave me turbo-prohibition anyway

I would change friends

Does the fasty have IRS?
Nice to see it being build-up again though