Bus cooling flap question

[oprn]

I am assembling the tin and fan housing on a stock Bus engine to go in my Buggy and noticed the flaps will not close fully due to a knob on the casting of the fan shroud that seems to be a stop. Why? It leaves the flaps about 30% open. Can I grind it down so that the thermostat can pull the flaps fully closed?

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[oprn]

No one familiar with this part? Perhaps I should ask in the Bus section?

[NextGen]

This is a Guess -- I have a T-4 engine in my bug which uses a T-1 fanhousing. In a bug the T-4 is hardly working , which makes it hard to reach running temp. So I went to a 90c thermostat instead of the 80c which allowed the engine to heat up for a longer period of time.
In a heavy bus which will heat up faster when driven due to it's weight, the 80 c may not open fast enough, so they keep the flaps open the 30% to make sure the bus does not over heat. Again a guess.

[Clatter]

Something is wrong in your setup here..

Can you post a couple of pics from farther away?

[oprn]

I am not sure what you want to see but here it is.

[oprn]

Ray replied on the Bus thread saying it is normal, best to leave it alone. The engine is going into the Buggy on my avatar and I am not too sure how that will turn out cooling wise. Our climate is cool here and the Buggy is light so I am thinking it could be a problem keeping it warm enough. On the other hand the air intake is down low, at the rear and will be recirculation hot air from the exhaust and the cooling system discharge so it could run hot.

The jury is out until I get it on a road test.

[Clatter]

FWIW, I really like to test-fit the flap assembly with the fan shroud and flaps 100% assembled,
But the top tins of the motor left off.

You can then test-cycle the flap assembly through it's movement, and address any issues.

You want to make sure that the flap that fits over the top of the oil cooler seats square and completely home,
Among other things.

Before the thermostat cable goes into place,
You want to make sure the spring will snap the flap assembly home completely and crisply.
The flaps should seat against their full-cool home evenly all the way around,
And do so all at the same time.
When you do it right, it makes a 'pwank' noise as it snaps home.
Do it a couple of times - Pwank! Pwank!
Listen to this sound, it is the sound of full cooling.
Once the motor is assembled, and you are running it hot on the highway,
You can check to make sure your thermostat wire is slack, and all of the way open to let the flaps seat.
And you can do a pwank pwank with the lever that sticks up to hold the cable.
Since you can't see it with the tins on, but you heard the pwank when you did it before,
Your ears will tell you that you are getting full cooling.

Ah, the nirvana of fueling up,
Oil checked, fan belt still tight, and the Pwank! of the thermostat fully open, and full cooling engaged!

Type 4 nirvana..
Pwank! Pwank!!

[oprn]

Yes Clatter thanks, I did do the check over with the tins off, straightened things a bit to free them up. I do get the Pwack - Pwack for sure! All is good then and I can go ahead and fit the thermostat and cable.

[BugUgly]

Pwank! Pwank!!

This reply literally had me laughing out loud. My kid was doing homework and wanted to know what was so funny. How do I explain "Pwank"? When a damper shuts, that's the sound it makes alright. On my 87 Toyota PU and my 84 Escort...the heater flaps shut with "Pwank" and I miss it.

[BugUgly]

Pwank! Pwank!!

This reply literally had me laughing out loud. My kid was doing homework and wanted to know what was so funny. How do I explain "Pwank"? When a damper shuts, that's the sound it makes alright. On my 87 Toyota PU and my 84 Escort...the heater flaps shut with "Pwank" and I miss it.

[BugUgly]

RNG curse the double click! How do I remove a double post?